Call Us Now
Buy Now
Michael

YouTube Facebook Instagram


Michael

Michael

How To Prevent Mold And Mildew

Learning about Mold and Mildew

Mold and mildew are terms that are used interchangeably since they refer to the same living micro-organisms. For simplicity we’ll refer to them as molds. Molds encompass a wide range of fungal species that can live on the surface most materials, including wood. They require air, water, and food. Their color is usually white or black, but can be just about any color. If the growth is green, it’s probably a plant-like organism called algae.

One of the best tools an applicator or homeowner can have in their possession is a moisture meter. In addition to finding trouble spots due to water infiltration, it can also help determine if the surface of logs are dry enough to seal or finish.

Moisture content of logs can dramatically affect the application of some of Perma-Chink Systems' products. We recommend that moisture content is below 35% for maximum adhesion of our finishes.

Although there is not much difference in the formulation between Lifeline Advance™ Satin and Advance Gloss, Advance Satin contains a flatting agent for the purpose of reducing its reflectivity, or "gloss." This raw material can settle to the bottom of the container over time.

"Stir well before use" 

This term, or its equivalent, appears on every container of stain and finish we sell. It is there for a good reason - most of our finishes are formulated with low viscosities, making them easy to apply with an airless sprayer and in thin layers. Any pigments they contain are heavier than the liquids, so over time they may settle to the bottom of the pail.

If the container is not stirred thoroughly and the pigments are not uniformly distributed throughout the product, the color may change as the stain is applied. This situation is easy to avoid with proper mixing both before use and occasionally during use.

Which is the best way to remove an existing finish, media blasting or chemical stripping? Like most questions of this nature there is no definitive answer, it depends on the situation. Both methods of removing a finish have their positive and negative attributes. The results will depend on the competence of the person or persons doing the work as well as the method used. For the sake of comparison, we will look at the features of each method to help you make a more informed decision about which one to choose.

Perma-Chink Systems sells two epoxy products, M-Balm®, a wood consolidator that hardens loose, friable wood fibers, and E-Wood®, a putty used to fill voids or cavities in logs and timbers. Both M-Balm and E-Wood are two component epoxies. Like all epoxy products, they consist of a resin and a hardener and rely on a chemical reaction between the two components to become hard. As they react they often become warm, or even hot. M-Balm, in particular, can become quite hot about 15 to 20 minutes after the two components are mixed together.

The most important thing that you can do to help maintain the finish of your log or timber home is to keep it clean. An annual washing with Log Wash will help prevent airborne contaminates, dirt, bird droppings, and sunlight from degrading the finish. While nothing can withstand the effects of the environment forever, keeping wood clean and maintained can protect it better and longer. How can keeping the surface clean prevent sunlight from injuring the finish? One of the features of our Lifeline Advance clear topcoats is that they reflect UV radiation.

Log End Seal™ is a product unique to Perma-Chink Systems. Although Log End Seal is a fairly simple and easy product to use, there are some tips that can help you avoid problems especially in the fall when cooler temperatures slow down the curing process.

The most important thing about applying Log End Seal is that it needs to go on in one (1) thin coat. In order to attain a thin coat, the log ends need to be sanded (60 grit) fairly smooth and stained with Lifeline™ stain. If they are not smooth, the rough surface texture will prevent a thin coat application and the thicker the film, the longer it will take to cure.

We often get asked if it is acceptable to apply our Lifeline finish systems over an existing oil-based or petroleum stain. It would be nice if there was a simple yes or no answer to this question, but there is not. It depends on a number of factors, including how many coats have been applied, how long the stain has been on the walls, and which oil-based or petroleum stain is present on the wood surface. In general, it is ALWAYS best to remove an existing competitive finish before applying Lifeline.

Page 26 of 42
New Age Blast Media Available Sizes

New Age Blast Media Available Sizes

Call 1-800-548-3554 to Order

Features

  • Made from recycled glass
  • Superior to corn, walnut, sand or soda media

Resource Links

Restoration FAQ

If your log home has an unknown finish, it's best to take it down to bare wood. If you know that it's been finished with Perma-Chink Systems products, you can clean and reapply finish or topcoat. For the best products to use, read this.

Restoration Reviews