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Centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, roaches, crickets, ants, beetles, spiders, wasps, squirrels, opossums, raccoons, bats and mice are just some of the pests that manage to find their way into homes. It’s just about impossible to keep all of them from getting in, but there are several things that you can do to significantly reduce the number of pests that make it inside your home. Most have to do with blocking the ways they can enter. Furthermore, there are also some things you can do outside to make your home less attractive to pest invaders.

Every summer we receive calls about small flying insects making holes in the exterior surfaces of logs. They are usually described as tiny flies, bees or flying ants, but in fact these insects are small parasitic wasps that are about the size of a fruit fly or large gnat. There are literally hundreds of parasitic wasp species and some of them specialize in parasitizing beetle larvae including wood boring beetles. They can be seen going in and out of existing beetle emergence holes looking for live beetle larvae to lay their eggs on.

For many years oxalic acid has been one of the most commonly used products for brightening and preparing wood surfaces for a coat of stain. Why? Prior to the introduction of organic solvent finish removers in the late 1990s, the most popular paint and stain removal products were caustic chemical strippers which contain sodium or potassium hydroxide. They are still sold at most paint stores, and although quite caustic and somewhat hazardous, they have been used for over 100 years and are relatively inexpensive.

While we call our pigmented finishes “stains,” in reality they behave more like water-based paints than traditional oil-based stains. The word stain itself implies that the wood fibers become stained with the pigments contained in the product, whereas water-based finishes form a film that covers the wood fibers without actually coloring or “staining” them.

Moisture content of logs can dramatically affect the application of some of Perma-Chink Systems' products. We recommend that moisture content is below 35% for maximum adhesion of our finishes.

One of the best tools an applicator or homeowner can have in their possession is a moisture meter. In addition to finding trouble spots due to water infiltration, it can also help determine if the surface of logs are dry enough to seal or finish.

Mold and mildew are terms that are used interchangeably since they refer to the same living micro-organisms. For simplicity we’ll refer to them as molds. Molds encompass a wide range of fungal species that can live on the surface most materials, including wood. They require air, water, and food. Their color is usually white or black, but can be just about any color. If the growth is green, it’s probably a plant-like organism called algae.

Following are some comparison points of Lifeline™ finish systems to typical oil-based products.


Environmental Issues

Most oil-based finishes contain some type of organic solvents that evaporate into the air when they dry. These components are known as Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). When VOCs are in the vapor state and interact with NOx (Nitrogen Oxides) in the presence of ultraviolet (UV) light, ground level ozone or smog, a health hazard to humans, forms.

Osborn Brushes are excellent tools to help prepare a surface before the first coat of finish is applied. They consist of nylon bristles impregnated with particles of silicon carbide which act as an abrasive. Osborn brushes are surface conditioning brushes, not sanding brushes. So what is the difference? Sandpaper and sanding disks are designed to remove the top layer of wood, whereas Osborn Brushes are designed to smooth the surface of the wood without removing the entire top layer.

Log End Seal™ is a product unique to Perma-Chink Systems. Although Log End Seal is a fairly simple and easy product to use, there are some tips that can help you avoid problems especially in the fall when cooler temperatures slow down the curing process.

The most important thing about applying Log End Seal is that it needs to go on in one (1) thin coat. In order to attain a thin coat, the log ends need to be sanded (60 grit) fairly smooth and stained with Lifeline™ stain. If they are not smooth, the rough surface texture will prevent a thin coat application and the thicker the film, the longer it will take to cure.

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