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UV Boost™ is a concentrated water-based, liquid stain additive that contains a hindered amine light stabilizer specifically designed for wood protection.
Some regions of the country such as the southeast, southwest, and higher altitude areas are subject to high intensity sunlight. Over time, the ultraviolet light in sunlight photo-oxidizes the lignin component of wood. When added to the first coat of any of our Lifeline™ water-based stains, UV Boost interacts with the lignin thus slowing the photo-oxidative rate that results in wood darkening and eventually wood graying beneath the stain.
Application Tips
1. UV Boost is only effective when used in the first coat of stain or finish applied to bare wood. UV Boost must be in direct contact with the wood for it to work. It is not effective when added to topcoats or stains applied over an existing finish.
2. UV Boost may be used in both interior and exterior applications. When used inside it will help prevent the “picture frame” or “carpet frame” effect.
3. UV Boost is designed to be used in any Lifeline water-based stain as well as Acrylic Gloss/Satin and Sure Shine™ Gloss/Satin. It is not suitable for use in oil-based finishes or stains produced by manufacturers other than Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.
4. Lifeline Ultra-2™, Lifeline Ultra-7™, and Prelude™ are already formulated with the maximum recommended oncentration of UV Boost; therefore, it is not necessary to purchase or add additional UV Boost to these products.
5. UV Boost is available in two sizes, one for the addition to one gallon containers and one for addition to five gallon containers.
Application
1. Shake container of UV Boost.
2. Add entire contents to the appropriately sized full container of stain or finish.
3. Shake or stir the container of stain or finish until the contents are thoroughly mixed.
4. Apply stain or finish according to the labeled directions.
5. Any stain containing UV Boost that is left over once the initial coat is applied may be used for subsequent coats. Just be sure to “box” the remaining stain to assure a uniform color.
Cleanup
UV Boost that has been spilled may be cleaned with soap and water.
Storage/Shelf Life
1. Keep container tightly sealed until ready for use.
2. Do not freeze.
3. UV Boost has a shelf life of three years from date of manufacturing.
Packaging
UV Boost is available in both 120 mL for adding to one gallon of stain or finish and 240 mL for adding to five gallons of stain or finish. Since the concentration of the active components differ, be sure to use the appropriate size for the amount of stain or finish you are using.
Results from panels exposed in an accelerated weathering tester for 1200 hours:
Log siding presents much more of a sealing challenge than stacked logs for several reasons. As stacked logs season and shrink, they settle on top of each other. If there are sealed gaps between the logs, the width of the gaps between the logs may remain fairly uniform as the logs settle. On the other hand, log siding is nailed or screwed into dimensional lumber which holds the siding in place. As shrinkage occurs, the gaps between the courses can become wider and wider (see pictures below). In addition, if the siding is not properly attached to the wall, it can twist and warp, creating even larger gaps between the courses.
There is not much anyone can do in these situations. The problem is related to the quality of the siding and the way it was installed. Even a sealant with 1000% elongation would not be able to handle the dynamics encountered in these circumstances. Trying to keep up with the gaps as they develop is an exercise in futility. It is a lot less work to wait until the siding has finished shrinking and moving and then address sealing the gaps using the appropriate backing materials.
Another problem encountered when sealing log siding is that its design rarely leaves enough room for Backer Rod or other types of backing materials. If no backer is used, even a small amount of shrinkage will result in a split forming in the sealant along the seam. About the only thing that can be done to avoid this from occurring is to run a strip of masking tape along the seam and then trim the tape to the desired width.
Pinstripe tape available at most auto supply stores also works well. Don’t forget that you will need at least 1/4 inch of bare wood above and below the tape for the sealant to adhere to, while maintaining a wet sealant thickness of 3/8 inch. This will allow some movement of the siding without the sealant splitting along the seam.
The last topic about sealing log siding has to do with the siding ends. Just like logs, the exposed end grain of siding is prone to absorb water. Once the window, door, and corner trim is installed, it is almost impossible to completely protect the ends of the siding from contact with rainwater. This is especially true on dormers and other exposed areas of a home. The consequences of water absorption from the end grain include finish adhesion failures and dark discolorations due to water infiltration. However, if the ends of the log siding are coated with Log End Seal™ after staining, water absorption by the end grain will no longer be an issue. But to do it properly the siding will have to be stained and the Log End Seal applied before the trim-work is installed.
Tip: Stain all six sides of the wood siding prior to installation to prevent water vapor from pushing through the back side of the wood siding and negatively impacting the finish system.
All of our stains and sealants are water-based, and while they are still wet, most clean up quite easily with just soap and water. That’s usually the best method to use for cleaning our wet, uncured products off of windows, gutters, downspouts, and other smooth surfaces, but there are occasions when other clean-up techniques should be used to remove some of our textured sealants from wood surfaces.
Obviously soap and water won’t remove dried or cured products, so it’s good to know how to remove them too. Just remember to always try a small spot before using any type of cleaner over a large area. You never know if it will discolor a surface without checking it first.
Now let’s take a look at some specific products and situations.
All Lifeline™ interior and exterior stains and Advance™ Topcoats
If you are working on small areas at a time, it’s not difficult to carry a damp rag with you and wipe off any product that gets onto surfaces that you don’t want stained or topcoated. But if you are using an airless sprayer and overspray gets onto surfaces like windows, gutters, or doorknobs, there is a good chance that the product will dry before you get a chance to wipe it off.
If the stain or topcoat has been on for less than an hour, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol may remove it, but if it has had enough time to start curing, it will probably require something stronger. The most effective group of products we’ve found for removing dried finishes are automotive glass cleaners available at most automotive supply stores. There are several brands of aerosol foam cleaners that work, but be sure that removing bugs, grime, and tar is on the label. If it is, it will probably do a good job. You need a foam type product to assure that it does not quickly run off of the surface. If you are attempting to remove the stain or topcoat off a painted surface, be sure to test a small spot to make sure that it does not discolor or remove the paint as well.
Energy Seal™ and Perma-Chink®
Both of these sealants contain an aggregate that gives them their texture. If you get either one on a smooth, slick surface they can be easily removed with a damp rag. But if you get a clump on a rough surface like bare or stained wood, the aggregate and polymer will get imbedded in minute nooks and crannies on the surface, and it becomes very difficult to completely wipe it off without smearing it over a wide area.
If the wood is bare, once stained the spot may stick out from the surrounding area, since the sealant residue will change the porosity of the wood. It is sometimes better to allow the Perma-Chink or Energy Seal time to partially cure and then try to roll it off with your thumb and fingers.
Once Perma-Chink or Energy Seal fully cure, they become very difficult to remove from just about any surface. The best way to remove them from hard, smooth surfaces is to scrape or cut them off with a razor knife. If they cure on bare or stained wood, they are almost impossible to remove without doing some damage to the surface and the finish.
Cured Perma-Chink and Energy Seal are impervious to most solvents, but if you want to soften them for easier removal, you can use a paint stripper containing methylene chloride. You’ll need to put on a thick coat and since it needs to be left on the sealant for at least four to six hours, it’s best to cover it with plastic film to keep it from drying out. When the sealant softens, you can try removing it with a scraper or stiff nylon bristled brush. Do not use a wire brush. No matter which method you’ve used to remove Perma-Chink or Energy Seal, if the surface was stained, you’ll need to do some touch-up work. Sand the spots with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper then touch-up using a rag rather than a brush.
Woodsman™ and Check Mate 2®
Since neither of these smooth-surfaced sealants contain an aggregate they are much easier to remove with a wet rag, as long as it is done quickly. Once they cure, you’ll need to use the same techniques as removing cured Perma-Chink or Energy Seal.
Log End Seal™
Wet Log End Seal is fairly easy to remove using just water, but once it cures it becomes just about impossible to remove without physically grinding or sanding it off. The problem is that since it is a soft polymer, it will quickly fill sandpaper or a sanding disk. Probably the best tool to use is a Wood Shark. If the teeth of the Wood Shark do become filled with polymer, it can be burned away with a blow torch and the Wood Shark can be reused indefinitely.
Borates, Wood ReNew™ and Log Wash™
Borates (Shell-Guard® Concentrate, Shell-Guard RTU and Armor-Guard®), Wood ReNew and Log Wash are all very water soluble, but if not adequately rinsed off of glass or painted surfaces, they can leave a white haze. The best thing to use to remove any borate, Wood ReNew or Log Wash residue is pure warm water. Don’t add any ammonia, soap, or detergent. Once the residue is washed off you can use a commercial glass cleaner to remove any streaks.
M-Balm™ and E-Wood™
Both of these products are two-component epoxies that are not water soluble, so just soap and water won’t have much effect on them. You can use white vinegar to clean up the individual components, or even mixed material before it cures.
To remove cured M-Balm and E-Wood, you have no choice but to grind or sand it off. That’s not difficult with E-Wood putty, but since M-Balm soaks into the wood surface, sanding will still leave the wood impregnated with epoxy and prevent that area from properly taking a stain.
Log siding presents much more of a sealing challenge than stacked logs for several reasons. As stacked logs season and shrink, they settle on top of each other. If there are sealed gaps between the logs, the width of the gaps between the logs may remain fairly uniform as the logs settle. On the other hand, log siding is nailed or screwed into dimensional lumber which holds the siding in place. As shrinkage occurs, the gaps between the courses can become wider and wider (see pictures below). In addition, if the siding is not properly attached to the wall, it can twist and warp, creating even larger gaps between the courses.
There is not much anyone can do in these situations. The problem is related to the quality of the siding and the way it was installed. Even a sealant with 1000% elongation would not be able to handle the dynamics encountered in these circumstances. Trying to keep up with the gaps as they develop is an exercise in futility. It is a lot less work to wait until the siding has finished shrinking and moving and then address sealing the gaps using the appropriate backing materials.
Another problem encountered when sealing log siding is that its design rarely leaves enough room for Backer Rod or other types of backing materials. If no backer is used, even a small amount of shrinkage will result in a split forming in the sealant along the seam. About the only thing that can be done to avoid this from occurring is to run a strip of masking tape along the seam and then trim the tape to the desired width.
Pinstripe tape available at most auto supply stores also works well. Don’t forget that you will need at least 1/4 inch of bare wood above and below the tape for the sealant to adhere to, while maintaining a wet sealant thickness of 3/8 inch. This will allow some movement of the siding without the sealant splitting along the seam.
The last topic about sealing log siding has to do with the siding ends. Just like logs, the exposed end grain of siding is prone to absorb water. Once the window, door, and corner trim is installed, it is almost impossible to completely protect the ends of the siding from contact with rainwater. This is especially true on dormers and other exposed areas of a home. The consequences of water absorption from the end grain include finish adhesion failures and dark discolorations due to water infiltration. However, if the ends of the log siding are coated with Log End Seal™ after staining, water absorption by the end grain will no longer be an issue. But to do it properly the siding will have to be stained and the Log End Seal applied before the trim-work is installed.
Tip: Stain all six sides of the wood siding prior to installation to prevent water vapor from pushing through the back side of the wood siding and negatively impacting the finish system.
Many people are under the impression that the winter months are hard on their logs and finishes. To some extent that’s true. In cold climates where the exterior log surfaces may be covered with ice and snow for several months can be damaging if the logs aren’t properly finished. But even then, the most damaging effects of weather on wood and coatings actually occur during the hot summer months.
One component of sunlight is ultraviolet light, commonly referred to as UV light, or UV rays. UV light is responsible for most damage to exposed wood because it changes or destroys the wood’s lignin, a component of wood that hardens and strengthens the cell walls. In more scientific terms, this process is called photo-oxidation.
Lifeline™ finish systems help retard this photo-oxidation process through three distinct mechanisms: reflection, absorption, and chemical reaction. Our Advance Gloss and Advance Satin topcoats help reflect the sun’s rays, thus reducing the amount of UV light hitting the color coats and the underlying wood.
Glossy surfaces are better reflectors than dull surfaces, which is why our Advance Gloss provides a bit more protection than Advance Satin. However, an accumulation of dirt on the finish will significantly reduce the reflective properties of the topcoat, one reason why a home should be routinely cleaned with Log Wash™. Advance topcoats also help protect the color coats and wood from the abrading effects of wind, rain, ice, and snow.
The colorants contained in the color coats are responsible for absorbing UV light. The more colorant a finish contains, the less UV light will get through to the wood itself. Opaque finishes, like paint and solid body stains, pretty well block all of UV light from hitting the wood. That’s why when they peel off, the freshly exposed wood may still look bright. On the other hand, the objective of transparent stains like Lifeline is to allow the character of the wood to show through the finish. In order to accomplish this transparency, the pigment loading is significantly less than that contained in opaque finishes. So although some of the UV is blocked by the colorants, enough of it gets through to eventually photo-oxidize the wood. Since darker colors typically contain more colorant than lighter ones, they tend to last longer. However, some of our light colors like Butternut and Wheat also contain a high colorant loading which extends their life, but they do give up some degree of transparency in return.
High quality finishes like Lifeline also contain components known as UV inhibitors that chemically protect both the finish itself, and the underlying wood from the effects of sun exposure. The limitation of these constituents is that they are sacrificial. In other words, over time they get used up. The more sunlight that hits them, the quicker they lose their effectiveness. In shaded areas of a home, these UV inhibitors may continue to work for many, many years, but in those highly exposed areas of a home like the south and west facing walls, they may only last a few years. That’s why occasional maintenance on a home is so important.
Round Logs
The profile of the logs has a significant impact on the weathering characteristics of a wall. The effect of sunlight and the weather on round logs is altogether different than on squared logs or flat, vertical siding. The top third of a round log is subjected to much more intense weathering than the bottom third. In cold weather climates snow and ice can accumulate on the upper third while the bottom third remains somewhat protected. Upward facing checks that have formed in the top section of the log will funnel rainwater directly into the interior of the log where it can soak into the surrounding wood. But most damaging of all is the angle of the top third of a round log towards the sun.
The top third of round logs catches many times more UV light than the bottom third. Besides exposing the wood to more UV exposure, the UV inhibitors in the upper third may become used up, whereas in the lower third they may still be active. Over time this can result in a noticeable difference in color and signs of weathering between the upper and lower sections of the logs. Providing some maintenance to the upper sections of round logs without creating lap marks or color differences can be accomplished, but it may be a bit of a challenge. The key is to do the maintenance before the wood becomes gray due to photo-oxidation.
Squared Logs
Squared logs and vertical flat siding are easier to maintain since the sun hits the logs at the same angle, and the UV light is evenly distributed over the entire surface. In addition, the flat vertical surfaces cannot accumulate snow and ice and even upward facing checks are not as prone to rainwater entering the logs. Although squared logs are subject to the same weathering parameters as round logs, and since the weathering is mostly uniform over the entire exposed surface, maintenance is easier to accomplish without worrying about lap marks and color differentiation.
Log Siding
Round log siding probably presents the greatest challenge to forestalling the effects of weathering. Typically used in high exposure locations such as dormers and gable ends, in addition to suffering the same weathering characteristics as round logs, log siding has some features which makes it even more difficult to protect from the effects of the weather. Siding is often manufactured from lower quality wood than logs, frequently using green wood. This makes it more susceptible to twisting, warping and cracking. Since siding does not have the high thermal mass of full logs, during the summer months their temperature can range from 80ºF to 160ºF – or higher – during the course of one day. This puts a lot of mechanical stress on both the siding and its finish system resulting in small fissures forming on the surface. Rainwater can then enter these fissures and get behind the finish.
Fissuring of Log Siding
Round log siding is typically milled quite smooth. The extreme smoothness presents a challenge applying the proper thickness of pigmented film necessary for adequate protection of the underlying wood. Smooth log siding should be coarse sanded or pressure washed using Wood ReNew™ before the application of the pigmented stain. Prelude™ Clear Primer should never be used on log siding unless it is unusually porous or has been media blasted.
Protecting Your Home
There are two basic ways to combat the effects of weathering. The most effective method is to keep log walls and siding in the shade by extending roof overhangs or constructing roofed porches around the home. The next best way is to apply a high quality finish system like Lifeline and Advance Topcoat. But the overall performance of even the best finish system is dependent upon proper surface preparation and application technique. Avoiding the use of chlorine bleach and back-brushing all coats of finish to assure adequate film thickness is crucial for long term protection of the wood.
Routine maintenance also plays a role in extending the life of your finish system. Our Advance Topcoats help reflect sunlight thus decreasing the amount of UV light that hits the surface of the wood. If the surface is dirty, it diminishes the reflective properties of the topcoat so giving your home a good washing a couple times a year not only keeps your home looking attractive, but helps retain the color of the stain and protects the underlying wood from UV damage.
NBS-30
NBS-30 is an oil-based insecticide additive for paints and stains. Pure and simple, oils and water do not work together and we DO NOT approve the use of NBS-30 in any of our finishes.
Bug Juice
Bug Juice is also an insecticide additive consisting of a suspension of Deltamethrin in water. Since it is water-based, it is chemically compatible with our finish systems, but when added to Lifeline Advance™ Gloss, it significantly reduces the transparency and gloss of the topcoat.
One of the questions regarding Bug Juice is, does it work? First, insects like carpenter bees, lady bugs, boxelder bugs, and other annoying log home pests are not included on the Bug Juice label. In fact, the only labeled target pests are cockroaches, ants, silverfish, mosquitoes, and weevils. Second, according to their web site, no efficacy studies were conducted longer than 48 hours after application. The bottom line is that there is no data to support the notion that Bug Juice deters carpenter bee infestations, nor does the manufacturer make any claims to that effect.
Bitrix
Bitrex is a bittering agent occasionally used to discourage wildlife from gnawing on logs and other wood members. Its major use is as an additive to liquid household products to keep young children from tasting them. Although it is occasionally added to paint, Bitrix is not compatible with Advance and should never be mixed together with any our finishes. It can be used in a water solution on top of our finishes once they have cured, but it must be reapplied after a heavy rain since it is easily washed away.
Stay Clean I/E
In high humidity environments that are prone to heavy mold growth we do recommend the addition of Stay Clean I/E to give the finish an added boost of mildewcide. Stay Clean I/E is only effective when added to the last coat of finish that’s exposed to the atmosphere. Adding it to our color coats does no good at all.
However, there is one situation where the addition of Stay Clean to Prelude™ should be considered. Occasionally we get a call from someone who has built a new home or is in the process of refinishing an older home in the fall time of the year. The onset of cold weather may interfere with completing the exterior finish work, so they want to protect the exterior log surfaces until spring. A coat of Prelude will help keep the walls clean and prevent UV graying through the winter months. But since Prelude does not contain a surface mildewcide, the addition of Stay Clean I/E is recommended.
The only negative impact the addition of Stay Clean has to our Advance Topcoats is that it reduces the transparency and reflectivity of Advance Gloss by about 30%.
Every summer we receive calls about small flying insects making holes in the exterior surfaces of logs. They are usually described as tiny flies, bees or flying ants, but in fact these insects are small parasitic wasps that are about the size of a fruit fly or large gnat. There are literally hundreds of parasitic wasp species and some of them specialize in parasitizing beetle larvae including wood boring beetles. They can be seen going in and out of existing beetle emergence holes looking for live beetle larvae to lay their eggs on.
People assume that these insects are actually burrowing into the wood since they often see frass or sawdust being pushed out of the holes they’ve entered. In their search for live beetle larvae, the wasps clean out the tunnels by kicking the frass out of existing beetle emergence holes. Since the wasps can’t tell if the hole was made recently or many years ago, they tend to clean out every hole they can find.
Parasitic wasps do not consume wood; therefore, borate treatments are ineffective treatment against them. In this respect they are similar to carpenter bees.
Some people get excited when they see 20 or 30 of these wasps flying around their log walls, but they are harmless and do not sting. They do no damage and are, in fact, beneficial insects since they reduce the population of wood boring beetles. Most of their activity occurs in the hot, summer months. Once the weather starts to cool a bit, they usually disappear. If you are really upset by these insects, you can spray your walls with Ortho Home Defense, Spectracide Bug Stop or similar products. Consequently, being somewhat adverse to the broadcast use of contact pesticides, we believe the best solution is to just to ignore them.
Three Examples of Parasitic Wasps:
One of the best tools an applicator or homeowner can have in their possession is a moisture meter. In addition to finding trouble spots due to water infiltration, it can also help determine if the surface of logs are dry enough to seal or finish.
Following are some guidelines when using a moisture meter.
Decay and insects
Untreated wood that contains a moisture content of 20% to 60% is subject to attack by decay fungi. It’s not a matter of if it will decay but when it will decay. That’s why it’s so important that a finish on green wood be able to breathe in order to allow the internal moisture to escape from the wood rather than be trapped inside.
Non-breathable or vapor barrier finishes like oil-based alkyds state on their instructions: “Do not apply when moisture content of the wood is greater than 18%.” When these types of finishes cover the surface of logs that contain a lot of moisture, the inside of the logs will begin to rot away and/or the finish will begin to peel off due to water vapor pressure.
Insects, too, prefer moist wood. Both carpenter ants and anobiid powderpost beetles typically infest wood members with moisture contents in excess of 30%.
Sealing or finishing logs
As we state in our literature, Perma-Chink products can be used on fairly green logs. But that does not mean that they can be applied when the surface of the wood is saturated with water. Even though the interior of the logs may contain 40% or more moisture content, the surface must be dry enough so that the sealant or finish adheres to the wood.
We would like to see the surface moisture content be 20% or less before applying any of our sealants or finishes. If the surface moisture content is too high, there is a chance that product adhesion will be compromised. This is also true after a home has been washed.
So how long do you have to wait for the wood to become dry enough to stain? It’s not so much a matter of time as it is surface moisture content. The objective is to allow enough time for the surface moisture to evaporate to a level of 20% or less. A moisture meter takes the guesswork out of the equation.
Moisture meters used to be high dollar items, but over the past few years they have dropped significantly in price. A quick search on eBay and Amazon.com produced a number of pin-type digital moisture meters for less than $25.00 plus shipping. For that price, a moisture meter is an excellent investment for both homeowners and professional applicators.
The following are guidelines to follow after performing a borate treatment to your log home.
Shell-Guard® RTU
Washing – Never wash down a wall within five days of application. It’s really best to wait at least seven days. In practice, there are very few occasions when a wall treated with Shell-Guard RTU needs to be washed at all. As long as the first coat of finish can be applied within seven days of application, there is no need to wash it down. If, for some reason, there is a delay in applying the first coat of finish or discolorations or white residue is present, then washing with water or Log Wash™ may be appropriate but under no circumstance should the wall be washed less than five days after the Shell-Guard RTU was applied. Too much of the active borate will be washed away.
Staining – An application of Shell-Guard RTU almost always dries enough to stain the wall the day after it was applied. There is rarely a need to wait more than one to two days after a Shell-Guard RTU application to apply the first coat of finish. Occasionally early morning dew may make the wall a bit damp to the touch, but once the sun comes out and the wall dries, the finish may be applied without affecting adhesion. If, for some reason, application of the first coat of finish is delayed for several weeks or even months, that’s okay. Once the borate gets into the wood it is very difficult to remove, even if it gets rained on for several months. In this case even pressure washing won’t remove enough of the borate to matter.
Armor-Guard®
Washing – Never wash down a wall within three days of application. Again, it’s best to wait at least seven days but in typical weather conditions most all of the water accompanying the borate will have dried within three days, and once the water dries, the penetration of the borate into the wood ceases.
If white deposits are present on the surface, a light misting with just water should be tried first and if, when the surface dries, they are still evident, then try washing the wall down.
Staining – Like Shell-Guard RTU, there is rarely an occasion that an Armor-Guard® treatment is not dry enough to stain the very next day.
Shell-Guard Concentrate
Washing – The use of Shell-Guard Concentrate has created much of the confusion relating to washing borate treated walls. If Shell-Guard Concentrate is used, it must be allowed to dry at least two weeks then washed down with Log Wash before staining. The two week wait and washing is not optional, it’s mandatory. We used to say that if it was dry to the touch, it was ready for staining, but we found that it could appear dry one day and be damp enough the next morning to create stain adhesion problems.
The other thing we’ve found is that there are some types of molds that thrive on the glycols contained in the Shell-Guard Concentrate. If the treated surface is not thoroughly cleaned of these mold spores, there is a chance that mold spots can develop under the finish.
Remember that although borates are great for eliminating and preventing wood decay fungi, they are not effective in killing or averting all types of surface molds.
Staining – The first coat of finish should never be applied over a Shell-Guard Concentrate treatment without first washing down the wall with a Log Wash solution. One of the glycol components in Shell-Guard Concentrate tends to stay on the surface and can create adhesion issues with the stain, or even Perma-Chink® or Energy Seal™ for that matter. Just remember to allow at least two weeks after the Shell-Guard Concentrate application before washing the surface.
Ever since Perma-Chink Systems introduced borate treatments to the log home industry over 20 years ago, its products have been the preferred method of protecting log homes from wood-destroying insects and decay fungi. We are still the world’s largest supplier of borate-containing preservatives for log homes, and although there are other borate-based products now available, most are based on technology developed by Perma-Chink Systems back in the late 1980s.
Perma-Chink Systems Borate-Based Preservatives/Pesticides
Shell-Guard® RTU – A borate/glycol formulation that requires no mixing and can be used directly out of the container. Shell-Guard RTU is the most recent development in borate preservative technology. It is not just a diluted version of Shell-Guard Concentrate but an entirely different formulation. A Lifeline finish may be applied one or two days after application.
Shell-Guard Concentrate – A thick, viscous liquid borate/glycol that must be mixed with water for use. It requires a minimum of two weeks drying time and must be washed down with water before applying the first coat of Lifeline™ finish.
Armor-Guard® – A powdered borate that’s dissolved in water at a rate of one pound per gallon. Since it contains no glycols, it does not penetrate deep into the wood and should only be used to protect new, un-infested wood members. A Lifeline finish may be applied one or two days after application.
Cobra Rods – Fused borate rods that are inserted into the wood, providing localized protection to high risk zones like log ends and the base of posts. In addition to the borate, Cobra Rods contain a small amount of copper oxide to increase their efficacy against some species of decay fungi.
Application Equipment
Any type of pump-up compressed air sprayer is suitable for applying Shell-Guard RTU, diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate, or solutions of Armor-Guard. Either a cone or fan spray tip will work. Do not attempt to use an airless sprayer. Airless sprayers put out a fine liquid mist that can be carried away with even a slight breeze. In addition, the high surface area of the small droplets allows the water contained in the solution to rapidly evaporate leaving behind a high concentration of borate and in the case of Shell-Guard RTU and Concentrate, mixed glycols that form a sticky film on the surface of the wood rather than penetrating into the wood.
For treating small areas, you can use a brush or hand sprayer to apply borate solutions.
Application Information
Applications of Shell-Guard RTU, diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate, and solutions of Armor-Guard MUST be made to BARE wood.
If the surface of the wood has any type of coating, finish, or water-repellent on it, or if a mill glaze is present on the surface, the active borate ingredient will not penetrate into the wood and the wood will remain unprotected.
Product Preparation
Shell-Guard Concentrate – Pour Shell-Guard Concentrate into a pail. Do not attempt to mix the concentrate in a sprayer. If you do you run the risk of the heavy concentrate blocking hoses and spray tips. Add an equal volume of water, warm water works better than cold water. Physically stir the mixture until the mixed solution is uniform and there is no thick concentrate remaining at the bottom of the pail. Using a paint mixer in an electric drill will speed the mixing process. Once the diluted Shell-Guard is completely mixed and uniform pour the solution into the spray tank. The mixed solution must be used within 12 hours, after that the borate will begin to drop out of solution. Do not leave diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate in the sprayer overnight, it will block up the spray tip.
Armor-Guard – Add the volume of water you plan to use into a pail (do not attempt to mix product in a sprayer) and then add Armor-Guard powder at a rate of one pound (2 of the scoops that are included in the 17 pound pails) per gallon of water. It helps to agitate the water as you slowly add the Armor-Guard. Keep agitating until there are no visible lumps and the solution begins to clear. Allow any undissolved particles to settle to the bottom of the pail then decant the clear liquid into your spray tank. Do not leave unused solution in your sprayer overnight. The borate will drop out of solution and block up the sprayer.
Shell-Guard RTU – No preparation is required. Shell-Guard RTU is used “as is” right out of the container. Any unused solution may be poured back into the original container.
Borate Solution Applications
Step 1: Be sure the surface of the wood is clean and dry before starting. NEVER WET THE WOOD RIGHT BEFORE APPLYING A BORATE TREATMENT. If you do, the wood cells will be saturated with water, preventing the borate solution from absorbing into the wood.
Step 2: If you have an adjustable spray tip, set it to either a fan or cone, fairly coarse spray. If set to a fine spray, it will be more susceptible to wind drift and it will take longer to complete the job.
Step 3: Start spraying the solution at the bottom of the wall and work your way up. If the solution begins to run down the wall, you are applying too much. You only need to wet the surface, not saturate it.
However, on exposed log ends, keep applying the borate solution until it no longer absorbs into the wood. Log ends are typically the most decay-prone areas of a log home and need the greatest protection. Be sure to get some borate into all upward-facing checks and fissures. It is not necessary to back-brush the borate solution. If you miss a small spot (less than an inch in diameter) here and there, don’t worry about it; the solution will spread out in the top layer of wood.
Step 4 (Shell-Guard RTU and Armor-Guard): In the case of a treatment with Shell-Guard RTU or Armor-Guard, the surface will be ready for the first coat of finish within a day or two. If, for some reason, there is a delay in applying a finish, it’s not a problem. The borate treatment will typically not have to be reapplied unless there is a torrential downpour within three days after the application. However, do not purposely wash the surface for at least a week after treatment. You run the risk of removing some of the active ingredient.
Step 4 (Shell-Guard Concentrate): After a treatment with diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate, you must wait at least two weeks for the active ingredient to make its way into the wood and for the glycol constituents to dry before applying any sealants or a finish. Even then, there may still be enough glycols remaining on the surface to interfere with the adhesion of the finish. We recommend washing any walls treated with diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate with a two cups per gallon Log Wash™ solution one or two days before the application of the first coat of Lifeline™ finish but no sooner than two weeks after the initial Shell-Guard application.
Step 5. Wash hands, clothing and equipment with soap and water.
Step 6. For long-term protection, exterior wood surfaces that have been treated with a borate solution should be coated with a Lifeline exterior finish. If the exterior surfaces are to remain bare, a re-application should be made every six years, regardless of which product is used.
Interior borate treated surfaces do not require a water repellent coating.
Maintenance
Shell-Guard RTU and Shell-Guard Concentrate treatments are permanent and should never need to be re-applied. In the case of a borate treatment using Armor-Guard, if the home is subsequently stripped or media blasted, an additional treatment is recommended once the wood is bare.
Cobra Rods Installation Information
Cobra Rods may be used to help eliminate an existing localized decay problem, or to prevent decay from talking hold in a high risk area like the bottom of a support post. They may be installed in wood members that are bare or have already been finished. Cobra Rods are two inches long and although are labeled as being 1/2” in diameter, they are actually 7/16” so they easily fit into a 1/2” diameter hole. A black plastic plug is supplied with each Cobra Rod.
Equipment
Electric drill with a 1/2” diameter bit
Screw driver
Trowel
Energy Seal™ or Woodsman™ sealant
Small amount of stain and topcoat (optional)
Installation
Step 1: Drill a 1/2” diameter hole in the wood to a depth of at least 3” deep. This depth leaves room for the rod and the plug. For large diameter round or rectangular logs, two rods may be inserted into the same hole, but drill the hole at least 5” deep.
Step 2: Insert the Cobra Rod into the hole as far as it will go.
Step 3: Insert the plastic plug and using a screwdriver, twist it clockwise to set the plug into the hole.
Step 4: The plastic plug may be hidden from view by placing a layer of appropriately colored Energy Seal over the end. The Energy Seal may then be stained to match the surrounding wood.
Step 5: Wash hands with soap and water.
Can Lifeline™ Interior stains be used to finish interior floors? Technically the answer to this question is yes, but we rarely recommend them unless whoever is going to be finishing the floor fully understands the characteristics of water-based, transparent stains and knows how to apply them.
Professional floor finishers have been using oil-based stains ever since it became fashionable to add some color to flooring. The application techniques and procedures used for applying an oil-based floor stain has not changed for many, many years, so most everyone selling or applying floor finishes will give a standard set of instructions to anyone planning to finish their own floors. However, if these directions are used when applying a water-based stain, the results will be unsatisfactory.
Once the floors are sanded and cleaned, a professional floor finisher using an oil-based stain will usually “cut in” around the baseboards and corners with a brush, rag, or pad, then apply the stain to the remainder of the floor [Diagram 1].
Since oil-based stains take a fairly long time to dry, the interface between the “cut in” areas and the center area can be feathered together, so that it becomes impossible to see any differences in color. Water-based stains dry very quickly, so it’s impossible to feather in any previously stained areas without creating lap marks. However, there are some distinct advantages for using a Lifeline water-based stain. These advantages include little or no odor, soap and water clean-up, quick dry time, and environmental friendliness.
If you choose to use a Lifeline Interior stain for your floor, here is the way to apply it.
1. Sand the floor as usual.
2. Vacuum then wipe the floor with a damp cloth. Keep rinsing the cloth so that it does not accumulate too much sanding dust. It will raise the grain a bit, but that’s okay. The water-based Lifeline will end up raising the grain anyway and the slight roughness will be dealt with later in the finishing process.
3. Once the floor is dry, apply one light coat of PreludeTM Clear Wood Primer with a brush or pad. This will seal the surface and help prevent any blotchiness due to varying porosity from the sanding process. Don’t worry about lap marks or surface roughness at this stage.
4. After the Prelude dries, apply the first coat of Lifeline stain. This is where care must be taken to avoid lap marks. Start at one corner of the floor and work on two or three boards at a time all the way across the floor. If you must stop before you get to the other side, be sure to continue to where one board ends and another begins [Diagram 2]. Apply Lifeline in a thin coat and back-brush as you proceed.
5. When the floor dries you can decide if you want to apply another color coat. It’s not necessary and depends on how much color you want to obtain. Do not sand.
6. Once you have attained the desired color and the floor is dry you can begin applying Sure Shine Polyurethane Finish to the floor. The technique for applying Sure Shine is different than applying the Prelude or Lifeline stain, so be sure to read the “Applying Sure Shine” Technical Tip before you start.
7. Now that you have the first coat of Sure Shine on the floor, and it’s good and dry, you can give the floor a light sanding using fine sandpaper (180 grit or higher) to remove any surface imperfections. Do not sand too hard or you’ll end up removing the finish. Once sanded, remove any dust with a damp cloth. Sanding between subsequent coats will not be necessary. Floors usually take two to four coats of Sure Shine to assure maximum durability and desired uniform appearance.
8. Although you can usually walk on the finished floor within a few hours, it’s best to wait 72 hours before replacing any furniture or subjecting the floor to heavy traffic.
What about applying Sure Shine over a newly applied oil-based stain? There is no problem with this as long as the oil-based stain is good and dry. Typically we recommend waiting a week or two, but it really depends on the temperature and humidity. It is best to check with the manufacturer of the oil-based stain to see what drying time they recommend before applying a water-based polyurethane clear coat.
Do you think your utility bills are too high for the size of your home? Is your home drafty or uncomfortable? Does water condense on the inside of your windows? Have spiders, ladybugs and other insects invaded your living areas? The first step in resolving all of these issues – and more – is an energy audit conducted by a trained professional with the proper tools and equipment. But is it worth it?
Let’s just look at the potential savings in energy costs. One gauge of energy efficiency is to compare your total yearly cost of gas and electricity divided by your home’s square footage of living area. An energy efficient home will operate on about $0.60 per square foot a year. Energy inefficient homes may cost two or three times that amount. You can figure out for yourself how much that equates in energy cost savings per year for your own home.
What does an energy audit do? As previously stated, an energy audit is the first step in the process. Simply put, an energy audit finds the source of any air leaks and determines how bad those air leaks are. The next step is to eliminate the air leaks by replacing faulty weather stripping, door sweeps, etc., and by using an appropriate sealant like Energy Seal® or Woodsman™. Since that subject is covered in “How to Apply Energy Seal™ and Woodsman” for now we’ll just concentrate on the energy audit.
The three basic tools used for an energy audit are a blower door, a thermal imaging camera and a computer loaded with the appropriate software. The blower door in conjunction with the computer measures the cumulative air leakage within the home and provides a negative internal air pressure, so the thermal imaging camera can better locate air leaks. The thermal imaging camera takes actual pictures of the air leaks, so you’ll have a record of exactly where they are located.
There are many utility companies around the nation that offer free energy evaluations and incentives for increasing the energy efficiency of your home. It’s always worth checking with your local energy provider to see what programs are available in your area.
There are a whole host of web sites devoted to providing information about Energy Audits and what they can do to identify problem situations and reduce your energy costs. Probably the best place to start is www.energystar.gov. Besides offering some do-it-yourself advice, you can also find a list of certified professional energy auditors located in your area.
Remember that the Energy Audit is just the first step. Next you have to decide if you want to attempt to correct the problems yourself or use a professional contractor. For log home owners here’s where things can get a bit tricky. Most painters and contractors are familiar with sealing and caulking conventional homes but as you probably already know, logs homes are different and it takes someone with log structure experience and expertise to do the job correctly. Plus general purpose caulks and sealants found at local hardware stores and DIY outlets just don’t offer the performance that’s required for the unique parameters associated with log homes. If you need help finding someone in your area who has experience doing this type of work, give us a call and we’ll try to provide you with some referrals.
So let’s assume you have had an energy audit and corrected all of the air leaks into to your home. In addition to significantly reduced utility bills, what other benefits will you see?
Comfort – Your home will be less drafty and it will be much easier to maintain a constant temperature throughout your entire home.
Water Leaks – In addition to eliminating air infiltration into your home, you will also eliminate water leaks that can discolor or rot your logs and trim.
Less Dust – Since eliminating air leaks stops a continuous flow of outside air coming into your home, it also reduces the amount of dust that accumulates within your home.
Fewer Bugs – Sealing air leaks closes openings used by ladybugs, ants and other insects to enter the living area of your home. Sealing these openings is much more effective and a lot safer than the use of any broadcast pesticides.
The bottom line is that an energy audit is well worth the price and the energy savings alone will typically cover the cost of the audit plus the cost of repairs within the first two years.
