Blog
Perma-Chink’s Technical Team has devoted a tremendous amount of time on projects to develop high quality products. These projects involved a significant amount of scientific testing that helped define our product portfolio with new and improved products.
Here are 4 things we have learned along the way:
1. The more sterile the log surface is prior to staining, the less chance there is for mold formation underneath the stain.
Although this statement seems to be self-explanatory, it can never be overstated. The most important step prior to applying a wood finish is surface preparation. The surface of the logs really needs to be clean and sterile prior to applying any stain; it helps eliminate adhesion failures due to surface contamination.
Before you apply a new coat of stain, you should pressure wash or media blast the surface. This cleans off dirt and debris and removes the old finish that has lost ability to adhere to the wood. Along with pressure washing, you may need a chemical log cleaner. The two wood cleaning solutions we recommend are Wood ReNew (Sodium Percarbonate) or Log Wash.
Apply the cleaning solution with a garden sprayer to the logs from bottom to top and allow the solution to remain on the wood for 15-20 minutes (do not let cleaner dry). Now use the pressure washer to wash down the wall with clean water from top to bottom. Use pH strips as a quantitative tool to determine if all of the cleaning chemicals have been removed from the surface of the logs.
Measure the pH of the rinse water to determine a baseline pH. Then measure the pH of the run-off at a several places on the wall once you are through rinsing. You need to continue rinsing until the pH of the run-off is in the range of 6.8-7.4. PH Strips with a range of 6 to 9 can be found at most pool supply stores, local drug stores, or discount stores.
Now here is where many people get into trouble. Let’s say that it has been five days or longer since the logs have been cleaned and you are still not ready to stain. The day before you are going to stain a wall, go out and wash it down with Log Wash.
This process will remove any dirt and pollen that may have accumulated on the logs since you cleaned them, and kills any mold spores that may be adhering to the wood. This helps to eliminate the risk of mold formation under the stain by removing both the mold and its food source.
2. Iron tannates are responsible for some discolorations commonly attributed to mold and mildew.
Tannins are compounds in wood that are found at highest concentrations in heartwood and bark. Under the right conditions tannins can react with heavy metals such as iron to form a dark blue/black stain known as metal tannates.
Visually these stains have a similar appearance to mold and mildew. However, under the microscope these stains are crystalline in structure.
One additional visual difference is that metal tannate stains almost always appear on the surface of wood, not on top of the coating. Dark streaks and dark runs down the surface of the log are also indicators of the presence of metal tannates. Wood ReNew (even bleach) will not remove this type of stain since it is not biological in origin. However, an oxalic solution like OxCon will completely remove the metal tannate stain. The oxalic acid reacts to change the oxidation state of the metal (iron tannate) to form a colorless species, thus removing, or “blonding,” the stain.
3. Many Industrial Wood Cleaners and Household Cleaners have detrimental effects on log finishes.
Many household and industrial wood cleaners are either strong organic solvents or highly alkaline and corrosive with a pH above 12. These types of cleaners can have detrimental effects on existing wood finishes, especially if they are left on the surface of the finish for too long, or if they are applied at concentration greater than recommended. Although the damage might not be visibly evident at the time, the use of these cleaners can reduce the longevity of the wood finish by increasing the erosion rate.
Our wood cleaner Log Wash will perform all of the functions of a typical cleaner without disrupting the look and performance of our wood finishes. Log Wash has slightly acidic pH, similar to that of wood. This means that when applied to wood it does not disrupt the wood’s chemistry.
4. Wood finish removers do not dissolve finishes; they only soften them enough to allow the finish to be removed with pressure washing.
A few years ago, pressure washing was the only way to go when it came to removing old finishes. With the introduction of media blasting, some people began to consider pressure washing as a secondary, inferior method of finish removal. Actually, pressure washing is still an excellent cleaning method for many situations.
It is always best to use finish removers supplied or approved by Perma-Chink Systems. Never use finish removers containing potassium or sodium hydroxide. They disrupt the chemistry of the wood and can lead to discoloration appearing under the finish. Before purchasing any finish removers, be sure to obtain a sample and test it on your existing finish.
Our S-100 Finish Remover and StripIt are formulated so that they can be applied “as is” using an airless sprayer. Their viscosity is such that they do not need to be diluted with water to be run through airless spray equipment. However, it is a good idea to thoroughly mix the S-100 with a Jiffy Mixer before spraying it. Just be careful to keep dirt and other debris out of the product.
APPLICATION
The first step before starting to remove a finish is to take off downspouts, gutters, and lighting fixtures, and mask off or cover those areas that you don’t want to strip; they may become discolored if contacted by the product you are using. The next step is to wet down and cover any plants and shrubs. Both S-100 and StripIt are pretty gentle on plant life once they are diluted with water during the stripping process, but in their concentrated form they may present a problem. The use of perforated weed blocking film works well over plants, roofs, decks and other areas you want to protect, since it allows water to drain through it but catches lumps of concentrated remover as well as any stripping debris. This makes clean up a lot quicker and easier.
Apply the finish remover to one or two courses of logs at a time in a sweeping motion across the entire wall starting at the bottom of the wall. This will help you avoid coating the chinking or sealant joints if they are present. Be sure to only coat an area that you can finish stripping in the allotted time you have. If you coat the entire wall, or too large an area, the finish remover may end up drying on the wall and become difficult to remove. Always apply finish removers at the recommended thickness or coverage rate. If applied too thinly, they may not work and you will have wasted your time and money. Once the finish remover has been applied to an area, submerge the spray gun and tip in a pail of water to prevent the product from drying at the tip and possibly blocking it.
After waiting an appropriate amount of time for the stripper to soften the finish (remember the cooler temperature it is, the longer it will take), you can begin the pressure washing process. Be sure to wash off any product and wet finish debris that’s still adhering to the wall or other surfaces. If allowed to dry, you may end up having to manually scrub these surfaces clean. Once you reach the top of the wall, or if you run out of time, rinse the entire wall starting at the top before you quit. You don’t want any chemical or finish debris to remain on the surface. If you are through for the day, replace the lid on the pail of finish remover and run clean water through your airless sprayer until clear water comes out of the gun.
Project Highlight
The project: Full exterior renovation of 40-year-old log home, including improving energy efficiency. The project required cleaning and mold/mildew removal, wood lightening, wood brightening and hand sanding. The Log Home Restoration project by T Paul Sec Painting won first place in PWC’s first annual Green Awards.
What made it green: All prep products used were eco-friendly and low VOC, manufactured by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.
Here is a link to this project with more pictures http://www.greenpaintingcontractor.com
We have tested our cleaning products with our finish systems and have confidence that when properly applied, their use will result in the best possible appearance and performance of the final Lifeline finish.
Homeowners almost always have a list of projects to complete around the house. If interior projects are on your list, don’t let winter slow your progress. The truth is, there are several indoor maintenance projects that are ideal for winter.
1. Freshen Wood Trim and Moldings, Doors and Window Frames, Cabinets, etc.
Freshening wood trims, cabinets, doors and window frames are perfect indoor maintenance projects for winter. Winter is the best time to stain inside because the air is drier than humid summer air and helps the finishes dry more quickly. You also can crack a few windows in winter to provide proper ventilation without worrying about bugs flying inside. Another reason to stain in winter is that you will get your inside projects done and have more time to do exterior projects when the weather improves. If you plan to hire a contractor, winter is a better time for interior jobs because they are slower in winter and usually offer off-season deals.
Keep in mind that you do things a little differently when staining interior trim than when staining walls. You’ll need to sand your trim, clean the dust, and then apply finish. You can apply color stain before you finish it with a clear topcoat, or just apply a clear primer Lifeline Prelude directly to wood. Then topcoat it with clear Acrylic Gloss or Satin, or PCS Clear Shield finish. If you would like to add more gloss to your wood trim, PCS Clear Shield is your best choice. Click here for application instructions.
2. Check for Air Leaks
Many indoor winter maintenance projects also help homeowners save money. In fact, one of the best money-saving maintenance tasks is checking for air leaks. According to HomeAdvisor, you can “stop energy-sucking, money-wasting air leaks by caulking, sealing and weather-stripping all of the seams, cracks, and openings in your home.”
There are a few DIY solutions for air leaks. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, reducing air leaks cuts heating and cooling costs, improves durability, increases comfort, and creates a healthier indoor environment for your family. A simple test for air leaks, hold a lit candle or incense stick next to potential sources of air leaks on a windy day. If the smoke blows horizontally, you have a leak to seal.
If your log home is too large for this task, please hire a professional log home contractor. You can find one in our Find a Contractor portal.
It’s especially important to check for air leaks if you have a log-style home since builders intentionally leave room for settling.
Sealing or caulking and weather-stripping are two common solutions. Seal and weather-strip doors and windows that leak air.
You also should caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring enters through walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits. Cover your kitchen exhaust fan when not using it, ensure your dryer vent is not blocked, and seal air leaks around your chimney, furnace, and gas-fired water heater vents.
Sealing the leak with Energy Seal or Perma-Chink prevents water penetration along with air infiltration. Next you have to decide if you want to attempt to correct the problems yourself or use a professional contractor. For log home owners, here’s where things can get a bit tricky. Most painters and contractors are familiar with sealing and caulking conventional homes, but log homes are different and it takes someone with log structure experience and expertise to do the job correctly. Plus, general purpose caulks and sealants found at local hardware stores and DIY outlets just don’t offer the performance that’s required for the unique needs associated with log homes.
If you need help finding someone in your area who has experience doing this type of work, give us a call and we will provide you with referrals 1-800-548-3554. You can also find a contractor near you by following this link Find a Contractor.
By Seth Murphy
papadiy.com
Home improvements can be expensive, but they can greatly increase your home’s value. When it comes time to decide which improvements to make, there are a few things to consider. Here are some tips on how to improve your home to increase its resale value.
Small improvements can be big!
Did you know that some home improvements only cost a few hundred dollars? Small but noticeable upgrades like repainting your entryway and adding a few nice flowers can really make a difference in how welcoming your home looks, a.k.a. “curb appeal.” Also, the most popular upgrades for dollars spent versus return in increased value are small kitchen and bathroom upgrades. You don’t need a whole redo of those rooms if the appliances are in good condition. Little touches like new lighting fixtures and backsplashes will greatly improve the look with small expenditures of time and money. Installing loose-fill fiberglass insulation in the attic gives the most return for your investment, and it’s not a large expense. Adding energy-efficient windows to replace older, drafty ones can improve both your current energy bills and your future resale value. So go ahead and see what small improvements you can make to have your house be more inviting to buyers.
Large-scale improvements can greatly increase value
If your home furnishings are older and in need of replacement, be sure to look for energy efficiency and universal design. The latter is a relatively new concept that incorporates ability-awareness features into home pieces so that the elderly or those with mobility concerns can use the furnishings easily. Think walk-in showers or lever-style handles rather than knobs. Such features make any room easier to use by all the people in your household, no matter what the condition of their hands or eyesight.
If you are looking at completely redoing your kitchen or bathroom or other rooms in the house, be sure to check around for reputable contractors and design ideas. The more you know going in and the more specific you are with your design plans, the more likely you’ll end up with a remodel that fits into your planned budget. Look online for ideas and local pricing information. For example, HomeAdvisor indicates that the average price to remodel a kitchen ranges from $15,428 to $38,607. Keep in mind that the labor and fixture expenses may vary greatly, as will the timeframe of the project. Comparison shop online to see what new kitchen appliances, bathroom fixtures, and flooring options cost to help you determine your price range for upgrading those or other rooms in your home.
Another consideration is the outside of your home. If you need a new stain job or new roof or siding for the exterior, that should be done before spending money on interior upgrades. Try to make repairs before upgrades. If something is not working normally or looking good, that will be a tip-off to potential buyers that your home has not been maintained well. So walk through and look at everything like you’re a stranger. What do you see that needs repair? What looks shabby, dirty, or just dark? Start with those areas.
So whether you’re looking at a few cosmetic improvements or major upgrades to your home, you can find all sorts of ideas and price points online to help you decide. Look at the upgrades that will quickly improve energy efficiency or functionality. This will help make your home more appealing to buyers. That, in itself, is worth the money.
July is National Log Home Month. During the month of July, log home manufacturers will honor America’s log home heritage by hosting home tours, log raising demonstrations, log home building seminars and more. There are many different sizes and styles of log home construction to suit any homeowner’s vision.
Here we present the TOP Log Home Manufacturers in the USA and invite you to visit their websites and see what they have to offer. Each manufacturer is outstanding in quality of craftsmanship, and this is not a ranked list.
Are American Barns disappearing? Not so fast…
There are thousands of iconic barns throughout America, from different periods in our history. These historic barns were once an integral part of American life.
The traditional design and use of the “barn” has evolved tremendously over the years. We have moved from large, open structures based around cattle stalls and hay storage to huge multi-purpose barn palaces.
A bit of the history
The word barn comes from the Old English language, for barley (or grain in general). The first barns were not American by design but were European-style longhouses that included stables and sleeping quarters. Brought to America along with the first settlers, the oldest barns were constructed in the classic “English barn” style.
As with any structure built for functionality, designs do not follow one pattern for long. English barns were further adapted into larger, timber-framed structures, which became known as the Yankee barn. One of the most fascinating aspects of barn construction is the common use of simple farmstead creativity. The earliest barns were built with timbers hand-hewn to shape, with the rough chopping marks of an axe. Slightly older timbers might be hand-cut with huge two-person saws, while newer barns have the clean-cut lines of sawmill machinery. More history here https://www.almanac.com/extra/evolution-american-barn
Traditional style barns pay homage to a great American tradition. For those seeking a multi-function barn made of traditional materials, these structures are hard to surpass. In keeping with the look and feel of the turn of the century, Hearthstone developed a process for giving the timbers a surface texture that mimicked the circular cuts of timbers that had just come out of an old sawmill.
A HEARTHSTONE HEAVY TIMBER BARN IS THE ULTIMATE OUTBUILDING
With the popularity of open-air structures for commercial properties, equestrian, restaurants (especially during pandemic), the Timber Frame Barn’s massive beams create breathtaking effects of open spaces and craftsmanship style rarely seen today. The large sliding doors open to cobble stone floors and the authentic smell of white pine creates an environment of harmonious interaction with nature.
Horse Barn
This beautiful, yet functional, barn was designed to house horses and the occasional social gathering. Because the customer was in the process of restoring a farmstead from early in the 20th Century, the technique & style reflects that period & geography. The naturally weathered Cypress board & batten gives the barn the perfect rustic finish.
Barn Homes
One of the most popular innovations is the “barn home” due to the open, airy floor plans and massive posts and beams. These homes convey the aesthetics of a traditional barn combined with an exciting modern design.
Check out their collection of Wedding Barns, Cottage Barns, Event Barns, Guest Barns and more here: HTTPS://HEARTHSTONEHOMES.COM/BARNS.HTML
All of Hearthstone barns are custom designed and made.
Lifeline Interior™ is a natural looking, semi-transparent wood finish. It forms a breathable protective layer for your walls and ceilings while highlighting the beauty and grain of the wood. Our unique breathable formula allows natural wood moisture to escape from the wood yet provides a tough surface film that can easily be cleaned and dusted, especially when top coated with our Lifeline Acrylic™ Gloss or Satin clear finish.
WHAT EXACTLY DOES ‘BREATHABLE’ MEAN?
To understand, it takes a little bit of chemistry and physics, but the concept is fairly simple. Technically, for those of you who want to impress friends, the scientific term is vapor permeability – the ability of water vapor to permeate through a film.
Polymer films are composed of long chains of molecules that are bound together in a three-dimensional matrix. This matrix is quite dense in films like polyurethane and alkyd coatings, and there is not much space between the polymer chains. This prevents small water vapor molecules from making their way through the film.
On the other hand, Lifeline finishes form a less-dense matrix with room enough for water vapor molecules to penetrate through the film, but not enough space to allow liquid water to make its way into – or through – the film.
You can think of it in terms of a film with a bunch of small holes, or pores, that filter out large objects but allow smaller objects to pass through them. In chemistry these types of films are known as semi-permeable membranes, but in our industry we call them breathable.
Another factor that influences vapor permeability is the thickness of the film. The thicker the film, the more difficult it becomes for water vapor molecules to make their way through. That’s one reason we encourage you to apply our finishes in thin layers. When applied too thickly, even acrylic latex films can have difficulty breathing.
If you use one of our Lifeline Interior color stains, the colorants in the finish help stabilize color of the wood and slow down, or even prevent the fading that you may notice when removing pictures or furniture from against the wall. If using Lifeline Interior Clear, we recommend the addition of UV Boost to the first coat to help prevent this “picture frame” effect due to UV light exposure. Since interior surfaces are not exposed to harsh weather, two coats of Lifeline Interior are not necessary. However, you can apply multiple coats of Lifeline Interior in order to achieve the appearance you desire.
Lifeline Interior is easy to apply. It can be applied by brush, spray or pad. Lifeline Interior dries to the touch in one hour and clean-up is easy, just use soap and water.
One of the best reasons to use Lifeline Interior is that it reduces the absorption of pet, fireplace, and cooking odors into the wood.
Lifeline Interior resists yellowing and is non-flammable and virtually odorless. Like all of our premium finishes, it allows the natural look and beauty of all species of wood to come through. Lifeline Interior can be used on new or existing log homes as long as the surfaces are clean and dry.
You can now order Lifeline Interior in any color you desire in addition to our 13 standard colors plus Clear. For a custom color, or color matching please call 1-800-548-3554. You can request wet samples to try on your logs by calling 1-800-548-3554.
Note: All Lifeline stains and finishes are water-based and do not contain petroleum distillates. They comply with all State and Federal regulations for contained volatile organic compound (VOC). In addition, being concerned with keeping living areas as healthy as possible, our interior finishes are specifically formulated to meet the highest interior air quality standards.
Discover the revolutionary products that have transformed log home maintenance! Visit Perma-Chink Systems today to find everything you need to protect and beautify your log home.
Safeguard Your Log Home:
Top Annual Maintenance Tasks to Prioritize
Owning a log home comes with a unique set of responsibilities, particularly when it comes to maintenance. To keep your log home in top condition, regular annual upkeep is essential. From inspecting the exterior for signs of wear to ensuring your home is well-sealed against the elements, these tasks not only preserve the beauty of your log home but also protect your investment. In this article, we’ll explore the key annual maintenance tips every log homeowner should follow to ensure their home remains a rustic haven for years to come.
Vigilant Plumbing Oversight
Regular plumbing checks are critical in preventing minor issues from escalating into costly disasters. Inspect your pipes periodically for any signs of leaks or corrosion, and make sure water pressure is at an optimal level. Addressing these problems early can save you a significant amount in future repairs. This proactive approach not only ensures the longevity of your plumbing systems but also maintains the overall health of your log home.
Effective Caulking Is a Must
To keep the harsh elements at bay, inspect and reseal your log home’s windows, doors, and other exterior openings. Effective caulking prevents drafts and water intrusion, which are common in log homes, thereby conserving energy and reducing your heating bills. This task not only enhances comfort but also protects against structural damage caused by moisture. Annual reviews and touch-ups can ensure your home remains sealed against the elements year-round.
Invest in a Home Warranty
Investing in a home warranty can shield you from the financial burden of unforeseen appliance and system breakdowns. Consider a service agreement that encompasses your log home’s climate control system to ensure it remains functional throughout the seasons. Select a policy that allows for straightforward claims processing without the need for documented maintenance histories. This type of coverage proves invaluable, particularly in log homes where system malfunctions can significantly impact your living conditions.
Persistent Pest Patrol
Pest control is essential, as insects and rodents can compromise the structural integrity of your log home. Regularly inspect for signs of infestation, including termites and other wood-loving pests. Early detection and professional extermination can prevent extensive damage, preserving your home’s foundation and aesthetic value. Consider scheduling bi-annual inspections with a pest control professional to ensure your home stays pest-free.
Gutter Maintenance is Key
Maintain clean gutters and downspouts to prevent water buildup that can damage your roof and foundation. Cleaning these areas twice a year, particularly after heavy seasons of fall and spring, prevents water damage and protects the landscaping and exterior of your log home from erosion and other water-related issues. Employing professional cleaning services can enhance this task’s effectiveness, especially in dense, wooded areas.
Roof Resilience
Regular roof inspections help identify and rectify problems with shingles that are missing, damaged, or loose. Repairing these issues promptly prevents leaks and extensive water damage, which can be especially problematic in log homes. This maintenance task is crucial for protecting both the interior and exterior of your home from weather-related damage. Engage a roofing specialist annually to assess and address any potential vulnerabilities in your roof’s structure.
Digital Document Management
To help manage your annual tasks, transitioning your home maintenance records to a digital format enhances their accessibility and preservation. Use a PDF converter to maintain the integrity of your documents, ensuring they look the same across various platforms and devices. This method mitigates risks related to compatibility and accessibility issues. By employing online tools that support drag-and-drop functionality for converting files, you streamline the organization and security of your log home’s historical data.
Maintaining a log home is an ongoing commitment that pays dividends in comfort, safety, and value retention. Through diligent upkeep and strategic improvements, you not only preserve the character of your home but also enhance its functionality. Emphasize preventive measures and professional assessments to avoid costly repairs, and remember that a well-maintained log home is a lasting treasure in the landscape of your life.
Perma-Chink Systems newest finish option, Log & Timber Defense™, has been quite the success for customers looking for a hybrid finish for their log homes. Unlike our traditional Lifeline film-forming wood finishes, Log & Timber Defense penetrates your wood. As it absorbs into the wood surface, it forms a strong lattice network within the wood, reinforcing and strengthening the entire system from the inside out. Due to its elastomeric nature and penetration, it greatly reduces the chances of peeling and flaking by leaving the system breathable to water vapor. Many penetrating oil-based finishes can also form a lattice-like network, but unfortunately these finishes contain harmful flammable solvents that make working with them both dangerous for you and our environment. In contrast, our Log & Timber Defense is water-based, making it both easier and safer to work with.
Log and Timber Defense is designed to be applied to bare wood in one or two coats. However, if applied to wood that already has an existing coating, this can interfere with adhesion and could lead to premature failure of the finish. For best results we recommend application of Log & Timber Defense to bare wood that has been cleaned with Wood Renew™.
For all our Lifeline™ wood finishes, we recommend application of a topcoat. However, not so with Log & Timber Defense. The reason for advising against this is because when a maintenance coat is needed in the future, there will be difficulty with penetration into the wood since the topcoat forms a barrier to penetration, leaving a film on surface. Additionally, this could lead to undesirable surface defects, as well as an uneven appearance.
Texture is another property that distinguishes Log and Timber Defense from our Lifeline Stains. Due to its penetrating nature, Log and Timber Defense leaves the surface with a more natural, rustic beauty. In general, it will appear flatter than our Lifeline finishes. However, if slightly more gloss is desired, a second coat of Log & Timber Defense may be applied. The second coat will also increase color intensity and provide an increased level of overall protection for the system.
Finally, Log and Timber Defense is formulated with ingredients that inhibit the growth of mold and mildew. Log and Timber Defense is both a stain and sealant in one package. It helps to keep liquid water out, which reduces biological growth that can attack and destroy your wood. In contrast, traditional natural oils – such as Linseed Oil – can easily promote growth of mold and mildew. Log & Timber Defense is waterborne, low in odor, has easy soap and water cleanup, and is non-flammable. Log & Timber Defense offers unique properties designed to give your home the very best protection possible. For more information about Log & Timber Defense or our other finishes, please visit Log and Timber Defense stain
Perma-Chink Systems has recently added another beautiful wood finish option for our customers. Unlike our traditional Lifeline film-forming wood finishes, Log & Timber Defense™ penetrates your wood. As it absorbs into the wood surface, it forms a strong lattice network within the wood, reinforcing and strengthening the entire system from the inside out. Due to its elastomeric nature and penetration, it greatly reduces the chances of peeling and flaking by leaving the system breathable to water vapor. Many penetrating oil-based finishes can also form a network but unfortunately often contain harmful flammable solvents that make working with them both dangerous for you and our environment. In contrast our Log & Timber Defense is water-based making it both easier and safer to work with.
Log and Timber Defense is designed to be applied to bare wood in one or two coats. However, if applied to wood that already has an existing coating this can interfere with adhesion and could lead to premature failure of the finish. For best results we recommend application of Log & Timber Defense to bare wood that has been cleaned with Wood Renew™.
For all our Lifeline™ wood finishes, we recommend application of a topcoat, however, not so with Log & Timber Defense. The reason for advising against this is because when a maintenance coat is needed in the future there will be difficulty with penetration into the wood because the topcoat forms a barrier to penetration leaving a film on surface. Additionally, this could lead to undesirable surface defects as well as an uneven appearance.
Texture is another property that distinguishes Log and Timber Defense from our Lifeline Stains. Due to its penetrating nature, Log and Timber Defense leaves the surface with a more naturalistic rustic beauty. In general, it will appear flatter than our Lifeline finishes. However, if slightly more gloss is desired, a second coat of Log & Timber Defense may be applied. The second coat will also increase color intensity and provide an increased level of overall protection for the system.
Finally, Log and Timber Defense is formulated with ingredients that inhibit the growth of mold and mildew. Log and Timber Defense is both a stain and sealant in one package. It helps to keep liquid water out, which reduces biological growth that can attack and destroy your wood. In contrast, traditional natural oils – such as Linseed Oil – can easily promote growth of mold and mildew. Log & Timber Defense is waterborne, low in odor, has easy soap and water cleanup, and is non-flammable. Log & Timber Defense offers unique properties designed to give your home the very best protection possible.
Drying times and curing times relate to two entirely different processes that occur in water-based polymer systems. All water-based products, be it stains, paints, or sealants, contain a percentage of free water, hence their description as water-based.
When applied and exposed to air, the free water begins to evaporate. The rate of evaporation is dependent on the humidity as well as the temperature. The higher the temperature and lower the humidity, the faster the rate of evaporation.
Once most of the water has evaporated from the surface, it feels dry – thus the term “dry to the touch.” The time a product takes to become dry to the touch is its “drying time,” although in the case of sealants, we typically talk about the time it takes a product to “skin over.”
Once a material has dried or skinned over, it does gain some strength in that it becomes impossible to brush out or tool smooth, but to achieve its maximum strength and durability it must be allowed to cure.
Curing time relates to the time it takes for a product to gain enough strength to withstand the parameters for which it was designed. As opposed to drying, curing is more of a chemical reaction that takes place on a molecular level. During the curing process environmental factors such as rain, snow, or high humidity can have a significant impact on the look or performance of a product. For example, in our Advance Topcoats, blushing is caused by water molecules becoming trapped within the polymer matrix during the curing process. Once trapped, it may take a long time for this water to escape from the film as long as environmental conditions remain cool and damp.
In addition to temperature and humidity, the time it takes sealants like Perma-Chink®, Energy Seal™, Woodsman™, and Check Mate 2® to cure depends on the thickness of their application. Once a sealant skins over, it inhibits the evaporation of water from the material under the skin. This prolongs the curing process, so although we may state that the curing time for Perma-Chink is two to eight weeks for a thinner or standard application, it may take several months for a 5/16” thick layer of Perma-Chink to attain its maximum strength.
Although we have never identified exactly what it is, there is a magical ingredient in Perma-Chink that acts as a magnet to human fingers. Put an adult or juvenile male anywhere close to a wall with a fresh application of Perma-Chink, and the first thing that happens is one hand comes out of their pocket with one or more fingers magnetically attracted to the chink joint.
Usually with enough force to determine the strength or pliability of the chinking, fingers leave evidence of attraction in the form of small depressions. Occasionally female fingers are magnetically attracted to Perma-Chink. In their case, the amount of applied pressure is usually considerably less since it is more a matter of feeling the texture. In either case, if the Perma-Chink has been freshly applied, evidence of their chinking inspection will be permanently imparted into the chink joint.
So what is the best way to protect freshly applied chinking until it cures? You can always try a “DO NOT TOUCH” sign, but from our experience it appears that most chinking inspectors can not read or it is taken as an invitation to touch. This means that you need to place some type of physical barrier, i.e. plastic or cardboard, between the finger pokers and the chinking. Just be sure that there is enough space between the barrier and chinking so that air can flow to facilitate the drying of the chinking.
The length of time you will need to leave the barrier in place depends on the weather. If it is warm and dry, the chinking will probably be cured enough in three to four weeks to resist finger poking. However, if it is cool and damp, it may take two to three months before it is safe to remove the barrier. In any case, the effort spent in protecting the chinking is worth the time in preserving the aesthetics of a great looking chinking job for many years.
It is virtually impossible to prevent logs from developing cracks and checks as they age and dry. That is because as wood seasons, mechanical stresses build up until the surface stress becomes so great that the wood cracks. We call these stress cracks “checks.”
Do checks need to be sealed? Yes, especially upward facing checks that collect water increasing the interior moisture content of the log. If they continue to collect water and the wood remains damp, they will eventually result in internal wood decay as well as provide nesting sites for carpenter ants and other insects. It is not necessary to seal checks on the bottom half of round logs since they do not collect water, but for a uniform appearance you may want to seal them. It is not usually necessary to seal checks or fissures that are less than 1/4” wide since they can not accumulate that much water.
If your home is new and the logs or siding are green, it may be best to wait a year before addressing the checks. This allows the wood to reach an equilibrium with its environment and by then most of the larger checks will have opened. With seasoned wood or an older home that is in the process of being refinished you can seal the checks either before or after applying a stain.
Check Mate 2
Checks and splits in logs present a different set of dynamics than those addressed by a typical caulk. Checks/splits open and close as the log’s moisture content varies throughout the year. The opening width of a check may change as much as 50% from summer to winter. Check Mate 2 is specifically formulated to meet the requirements for sealing checks that appear in logs and log siding.
When initially applied in a 3/8” thick check, Check Mate 2 bonds to the sides of the check (Figure 1). As the check opens, Check Mate 2 stretches to maintain a water-tight seal (Figure 2). The role the Backer Rod is to maintain a Check Mate 2 thickness of 3/8” during the application and two-point contact with the wood. Two-point adhesion enables Check Mate 2 to elongate and contract.
APPLICATION DIRECTIONS
Step 1: Begin by cleaning any dust, dirt, oil, solvent or previous sealer out of the check. Previously applied caulks can usually be easily pulled or scraped out with a hook knife. If the check is upward-facing and has allowed water penetration, pour some Shell-Guard RTU into it. This will kill any decay fungi present and prevent further deterioration of the log due to rot. If the wood within the check is damp from cleaning, rain, or a borate treatment, make sure the check has time to dry before applying Check Mate 2. You can speed up the drying process by blowing the water out of the check with a leaf blower. The last thing you want to do is to trap any water within the check.
Step 2: For sealing checks 1/4” wide or larger, Check Mate 2 should be always used in conjunction with Backer Rod. Insert the Backer Rod into the check and use a trowel or other implement to push the Backer Rod about 3/8” to 1/2” deep (Pictures A & B). If you push it deeper than 1/2”, the cured Check Mate 2 will be too thick and may rip away from the sides of the check. If the Backer Rod is placed too close to the surface the Check Mate 2 may end up too thin and split.
Step 3: For a neat, clean appearance you can use masking tape to mask off the wood on either side of the check (Picture C). Be sure to remove the masking tape right after you tool the Check Mate 2 smooth. If you remove the masking tape after the Check Mate 2 has begun to dry, you will pull the top layer of Check Mate 2 off along with the masking tape.
Step 4: Cut the tip of the Check Mate 2 tube to about the same diameter as the checks you plan to fill (a little smaller diameter is better than one too large). Fill the space between the Backer Rod and log surface with Check Mate 2 using a standard caulk gun. Check Mate 2 must have good contact with wood on either side of the check and be sure the crack or check is completely sealed from end to end (Picture D).
Step 5: Tool the surface smooth with a trowel, spatula or wet finger and remove overflow immediately with a damp cloth (Picture E). Don’t forget that the masking tape must be removed while the Check Mate 2 is still wet.
Step 6: Check Mate 2 will dry to the touch in about one hour, but complete curing may take several days, depending on application thickness, temperature, and weather conditions. The color of Check Mate 2 as it comes out of the tube is always lighter than the final cured color.
Note: Newly applied Check Mate 2 Clear is white but turns clear when cured.
Step 7: Clean tools and hands with soap and water.
