Guidelines for cleaning Bare Wood prior to applying Lifeline stains.

New Log Homes

1. If the wood has not grayed, wash the surface with two (2) cups per gallon of water Log Wash™ solution and a pressure washer no more than seven (7) days prior to staining. Smooth log siding should be washed using Wood ReNew™. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry.
2. If you are finishing a log or timber home that uses Western Red Cedar, Redwood, Walnut or Mahogany wood, use Cedar Wash™, a ready-to-use cleaner, instead of Log Wash for better surface preparation and finish longevity on these specific wood substrates.
3. If there are signs of grayed wood, use Wood ReNew according to the label along with a pressure washer. Rinse well and allow wood surface to dry before staining. If more than seven (7) days pass before the home is ready for staining, wash the surface with two (2) cups per gallon of water Log Wash solution, rinse well with a garden hose and allow the wood surface to dry.
4. If, after steps one or two, there are still dark streaks or discolorations on the surface, use a solution of Oxcon™ which contains oxalic acid, on the entire wall according to the directions for use. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry before staining. 

Older Log Homes with a Previous Finish Removed (A Restoration or Re-staining)

1. If there are no signs of gray surface wood, wash the surface with a two (2) cups per gallon Log Wash solution no more than seven (7) days prior to staining. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry.
2. If you are finishing Western Red Cedar, Redwood, Walnut or Mahogany, use Cedar Wash, a ready-to-use cleaner, instead of Log Wash for better surface preparation and finish longevity on these specific wood substrates.
3. If there are areas where grayed wood is still evident or if the wood has darkened after the finish was removed, use Wood ReNew according to the label along with a pressure washer. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry before staining.
4. If the wood has darkened or more than seven days pass before the home is ready for staining, wash the surface with two (2) cups per gallon Log Wash solution, rinse well with a garden hose and allow the wood surface dry.
5. If, after steps one or two, there are still dark streaks or discolorations on the surface, use Oxcon, an aqueous oxalic acid solution, on the entire wall according to the directions for use. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry before staining. 

Log Homes with an Existing Finish Still in Good Condition

1. If a maintenance coat of Lifeline stain or topcoat is going to be applied over an existing Lifeline finish, wash the coating surface with a two (2) cups per gallon Log Wash solution no more than seven (7) days prior to staining. Pressure washing is not recommended. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry. For maintenance cleaning, finished surfaces that are not going to be stained or top-coated, use a one (1) cup per gallon Log Wash solution.

*A NOTE ABOUT RINSING

No matter what product you use to clean bare wood, nothing is more important than making sure you have adequately rinsed the surface. Any chemical residue remaining on the surface can have serious consequences later on. We always recommend using pH Strips to make sure that the surface of the wood has been sufficiently rinsed, preferably to a pH of between 6.5 and 7.5. pH Strips are available at most pool supply dealers, aquarium supply shops and Perma-Chink Systems, Inc. They are not expensive, are very easy to use and a great tool to ensure adequate rinsing.

Guidelines for Restoring your logs prior to applying Lifeline stains.

There often comes a time, usually over the course of many years of neglect, when you may choose to remove all existing finish and reapply a fresh coat. There are a few methods that can be used; either the dry media blasting process or pressure washing, which at times may need a chemical stripper first applied. Both have their advantages and both can provide stellar results. The variables that should be considered when deciding which process is best for you include:

• Stain condition and how much of it needs to be removed
• Type and age of wood
• Accessibility to the walls
• Your budget and/or how much time you wish to invest if doing the project yourself
• What your expectation for the finished look may be

The process that is best for one house isn’t necessarily the best for another. Let’s take a look at two options below:

OPTION 1: Using a Chemical Finish Remover Step-by-Step

It is always best to use finish removers supplied or approved by Perma-Chink Systems. Never use finish removers containing potassium or sodium hydroxide. They disrupt the chemistry of the wood and can lead to discolorations appearing under the finish. Before purchasing any finish remover, be sure to obtain a sample and test it on your existing finish to see how well it works. Finish removers do not dissolve finishes; they only soften them enough to allow the finish to be removed with pressure washing.

Tools

Before you start, have all of the tools that you will need at hand and be sure that they are clean and in good working order. These may include:

• Paint brushes
• Paint scraper
• Stiff nylon brush (never use a wire brush)
• Airless sprayer (optional, requires larger sprayer tip)
• Wet and dry rags
• Water hose
• Gas powered pressure washer with an output of 2 to 3 gallons per minute (gpm)
• Tarps
• Recommended safety equipment such as eye protection and rubber gloves

Preparation

Before you start, remove downspouts and cover or mask off any areas that you don't want to strip. Finish removers will soften both stains and paints. You may wish to protect window and door trim with plastic sheeting. If you do get some finish remover on an area that you don't want to strip, immediately wash it or wipe it off with a wet rag. If you have a deck or porch floor that you want to protect, it's best to cover it with a tarp. Although neither S-100™ nor StripIt® is highly toxic to plant life, it is best to either cover plants or wet them down prior to starting, then rinse them off when stripping is complete.

Application and Removal

Step 1. Thoroughly read the label and be sure to wear the proper safety equipment and eye protection. Starting at the bottom of the wall apply the finish remover with a brush or airless sprayer according to the directions for use. Be sure to follow the directions pertaining to the application rate; if applied too thinly, the finish remover may not work and you will have wasted your time and money. Be sure to give the product time to work. On hot dry days; work on small sections of a wall at a time so that it does not dry out.

Step 2. Allow the finish remover time to soften the finish. It may take 30 minutes or several hours, depending on the existing finish, product, and temperature. If you see that the S-100 is beginning to dry, mist it with a light spray of water. For drying StripIt, apply another coat of finisher remover. In colder weather conditions it may take longer for the finish to soften compared to warm or hot weather. On cool days you can apply the finish remover to the entire wall late in the afternoon or early evening, and leave it on overnight. Neither S-100 nor StripIt will damage the wood or cured Perma-Chink sealant with prolonged contact.

Step 3. Once the finish has softened, use a pressure washer to remove the chemical stripper along with the finish. Using a 15 degree fan tip works well. Start at the bottom of the wall and work up. You don't want to wash away the chemical stripper from those areas you are not ready to strip. Hold the pressure washer wand at a 30 to 45 degree angle from the wall. The objective is to “peel” the softened finish off of the surface, not blast it off with a lot of water pressure. This will help avoid gouging the surface and prevent severe feathering. If there are some spots of remaining finish, try scraping them off with a paint scraper or a stiff nylon brush before they dry.

Applying finish remover	"Peeling" off the old finish	Blasting off the old finish - not recommended

Step 4. Once the entire wall is completed, begin the rinsing process starting at the top of the wall and working your way down. Rinsing off all remaining chemical residue and bits of loose finish is very important for the long term performance of the new Lifeline finish system.

Step 5. If, after rinsing, there are still remnants of finish remaining on the wall, repeat the steps 1 through 3 (slightly modified) until all of the existing finish is removed. It is not necessary to reapply the stripper to the entire wall, spot removal will work. Only use it on those areas that need it.

Step 6. Once the entire wall is completely bare, rinse the entire wall starting at the top and work your way down. Allow the wall to dry before making your final evaluation.

Step 7. If pressure washing the wall has feathered the surface, you may wish to lightly sand it or use an Osborn™ Brush to remove the feathered wood fibers. Never use sandpaper or Osborn Brushes finer than 80 grit on exterior surfaces. Sanded or brushed surfaces MUST be washed with two (2) cups per gallon Log Wash solution and the surface allowed to dry before the first coat of finish is applied.

OPTION 2: Media Blasting

Although we rent and sell the Blaster Buddy™ and furnish crushed recycled glass blasting media, we usually advise do-it-yourself homeowners to use chemical finish removers along with pressure washing because the process can be easily accomplished by an average homeowner and it is less susceptible to surface damage, resulting in a more attractive finished surface. However, when performed by an experienced professional, media blasting can effectively and efficiently remove the most stubborn existing finish. We do recommend that you first inspect a home that has been media blasted before making your final decision about which method of finish removal you want to use.

Media blasting consists of using corncob grit, walnut shells, glass beads, baking soda, dry ice, or recycled crushed glass to abrade the finish off the wood. We prefer crushed glass since it is very efficient, relatively inexpensive, and does not impregnate the wood with organic material that can later mold. Plus, it is very safe for the environment.

Once a home has been media blasted, there are two steps that are often overlooked but need to be followed:

Step 1. Blow off as much dust and debris as possible using compressed air.

Step 2. Wash the walls down with a two (2) cups per gallon Log Wash solution no more than seven days prior to staining. It is not necessary to use a pressure washer to wash the wall, a garden hose will do. Clean from the bottom up and rinse from the top down. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry before applying Prelude Clear Wood Primer or a Lifeline stain color coat. This removes all of the loose wood fibers and dust that may still remain on the surface and ensures better finish adhesion to the wood.

Sanding can effectively remove an existing finish, but it is time consuming and a lot of work. The use of sanding disks, rather than sandpaper, can save you both time and money, but you need to be careful not to create swirl marks in the wood. When sanding exterior surfaces never use anything finer than 80 grit.

Water-based film forming finishes require some wood texture for good adhesion, especially on exterior surfaces. Osborn Buffing Brushes work great for removing raised wood fibers (feathers) that may have resulted from aggressive pressure washing, but they are not suitable for removing finishes.

Remember - a sanded wall is not clean! Always wash down sanded walls with a two (2) cups per gallon Log Wash solution no more than seven days prior to staining. It is not necessary to use a pressure washer, a garden hose will do. Clean from the bottom up and rinse from the top down. Rinse well and allow the wood to dry before applying the first coat of finish.

Wood Before Buffing	Wood After Buffing

Next Steps

1. Inspect  |  2. Clean and restore  |  3. Preserve  |  4. Stain and Finish  |  5. Chink and Seal