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Help Us Minimize Our Environmental Impact by Storing Our Products Correctly.
At Perma-Chink Systems (PCS), we are committed to creating a sustainable future through our innovative, environmentally-conscious products. Our goal is to safeguard energy-efficient log and timber homes by creating finishing products that embody a strong commitment to ecological and social responsibility.
Our holistic approach extends beyond just sustainable materials. We integrate healthy living principles into every stage of our product development, ensuring that human well-being is a key consideration.
Our dedicated chemists invest significant time and effort into research to ensure our products excel in durability and shelf life. We begin by selecting raw materials that meet both our protective performance standards and our rigorous environmental criteria. These materials include resins, surfactants, solvents, biocides, pigments, fillers, colorants, and UV inhibitors.
We develop environmentally friendly solutions that minimize the need for frequent reapplications. By extending the shelf life of our products, we ensure they remain effective for longer periods, which helps to reduce waste and lessen the environmental impact associated with disposal.
To ensure you get the most out of your Perma-Chink Systems products and extend their shelf life, please follow these guidelines:
- Keep Containers Sealed: Ensure containers remain sealed and unopened to prevent exposure to oxygen and oxidation.
- Avoid Sunlight: Store products away from windows and direct sunlight to protect them from UV damage.
- Keep Away from Heat Sources: Avoid placing products near heaters or forced air vents to prevent temperature fluctuations.
- Distance from Exterior Walls: If possible, store products away from exterior walls to maintain a stable environment.
- Maintain Optimal Temperature: Keep products in a controlled temperature range of 50°F to 70°F (10°C to 21°C).
For products in opened containers, transfer the remaining product into smaller, tightly-sealed plastic containers to minimize air exposure and maintain freshness. Your careful handling ensures that our products remain effective and sustainable, minimizing waste and conserving resources.
Perma-Chink Systems’ environmental initiatives are making a positive impact globally, reflecting our commitment to a healthier, more sustainable world. Shop here: https://store.permachink.com/
Centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, roaches, crickets, ants, beetles, spiders, wasps, squirrels, opossums, raccoons, bats and mice are just some of the pests that manage to find their way into homes. It’s just about impossible to keep all of them from getting in, but there are several things that you can do to significantly reduce the number of pests that make it inside your home. Most have to do with blocking the ways they can enter. Furthermore, there are also some things you can do outside to make your home less attractive to pest invaders.
Landscaping
Most pests including rodents and insects like shaded, moist environments. All of the plants and shrubs surrounding your home may appeal to you but they also appeal to numerous pests.
It’s not that you have to cut them down and get rid of them, just move or trim them away from your foundation or log walls. What you need is a two foot clear space between the shrubs and your walls and foundation.
Once you move and/or trim them, you need to put some type of cover on the ground to prevent weeds from growing. Do not use pine needles, wood or bark mulch! The objective of these types of mulch is to hold moisture and that’s what you don’t want to do. You want to provide a dry environment that bugs and rodents don’t find attractive. The best thing to use is about three to four inches of coarse crushed stone or pebbles. Yes, it’s more expensive than organic mulch, but it’s permanent. Just keep debris like leaves from building up on top of it, and the stone will keep doing its job for many years.
Gutters
All log homes should be equipped with gutters. One of the most common problems we see is deterioration of lower log courses due to splash up from rain coming off the roof; however, gutters only work if they are kept clean. Blocked gutters provide ideal moist environments for a wide variety of insects including carpenter ants and termites. Although subterranean termites typically live in soil, they can also establish nests above ground as long as there is a consistent source of water. These types of termite colonies are known as aerial infestations and, if left unattended, the termites can cause significant damage over the course of several years.
Chimney Caps
If you don’t already have a cap on your chimney, they are a good investment. It is not uncommon for squirrels, raccoons, and birds to take up residence in a chimney during the summer months and become a nuisance. Raccoons are often infested with fleas that can end up in your living areas.
Door Sweeps, Screens and Weather Stripping
Make sure that you have door sweeps installed on all doors accessible to the outside and check to see if they are in good working order. If you can see visible light coming in at the corners they need to be replaced. It only takes a gap of 1/4” for bugs and mice to gain entry. While you are at it, check the bottom seal of your garage doors. Once mice get into your garage they will probably find a way to get into your living area, too.
Windows are the most common entry points for flying insects in particular. Flies, ladybugs, boxelder bugs, stink bugs, and flying ants are just a few of the insects that can find their way into your home through the windows. Check to see if there are any rips or tears in your window screens, and make sure that the screens fit tightly into the frame. See if the weather stripping is still flexible and maintaining a tight seal when the window is closed. If you have sliding glass doors, check them too.
Weather stripping has a lifespan of about ten to fifteen years so if yours is hard and brittle, it’s time to replace it.
Attic and Crawl Space Vents
Normal window screening is not enough to deter determined pests like squirrels. They can gnaw through normal window screening in a matter of a few hours. To prevent entry of bats, rodents, squirrels and raccoons use 1/4” hardware cloth on the outside followed with small mesh screening on the inside to keep out wasps, ladybugs and large ants.
Caulks and Sealants
If you take a walk around your home and count possible insect entry points, you may be surprised at how many there are. Besides all of the windows and doors you’ll find electrical, telephone, cable, gas, outdoor faucets, air conditioning, and plumbing entry points. If you have a crawl space, you may have a number of vents, plus a door. And don’t forget your clothes dryer vent. All of these are common entry points for insects and rodents.
Let’s first address windows and doors. Round log or log sided homes, in particular, present a real challenge when it comes to sealing around windows and doors. All too often once a window or door is set into place, the edges of the opening are covered with a piece of trim and that’s it. Rarely is the trim properly sealed to the logs and large voids behind the trim are left empty (see “How to Apply Energy Seal and Woodsman” for the proper method for sealing around windows and doors). If these voids are not filled, they become perfect nesting sites for several species of ants, many of which will get into your home.
A good product to use for filling these voids is a Log Gap Cap™. A Log Gap Cap is a pre-cut foam insert that is available in two different sizes that fit most log profiles and log diameters. Once in place, the Log Gap Cap needs to be covered with a layer of Energy Seal™ or Woodsman™, since direct UV light will degrade the foam fairly rapidly.
Foundation vents also need to be sealed to the walls. Screening the vents won’t do any good if open gaps are left between the vent housing and the wall. If there is room for backer rod be sure to use it. If the foundation is brick, block or stone, Gray Energy Seal provides a good color match to the existing mortar.
Examine all of the electrical and plumbing penetrations mentioned earlier. Most were probably initially sealed with mortar. Most likely you’ll find cracks or gaps where the mortar has fallen out over the years. If a cheap construction caulk was used, it’s probably hard and brittle. Try to dig out as much as you can and replace it with a high-quality sealant like Energy Seal or Woodsman. When properly applied, they will keep those pesky bugs out of your home for many years to come.
Pesticides
We at Perma-Chink Systems, Inc. discourage the broadcast use of pesticides just to keep nuisance pests out of your home. We are a firm advocate of Integrated Pest Management and since there are so many mechanical methods of control available to homeowners, we believe that they should be used as the primary means of preventing pest invasions. Pesticides should be used only as absolutely needed. Yes, there are situations when the use of pesticides may be the only solution to a problem but you may be surprised how effective some of these simple mechanical recommendations can be.
Locations to seal in home:
Resources
Need help getting started? Check out our Tech Tips on mitigating pests.
“Stir well before use”
This term, or its equivalent, appears on every container of stain and finish we sell. It is there for a good reason – most of our finishes are formulated with low viscosities, making them easy to apply with an airless sprayer and in thin layers. Any pigments they contain are heavier than the liquids, so over time they may settle to the bottom of the pail.
If the container is not stirred thoroughly and the pigments are not uniformly distributed throughout the product, the color may change as the stain is applied. This situation is easy to avoid with proper mixing both before use and occasionally during use.
What is “Boxing”?
We recommend customers to “box” containers as they get close to empty. When a container of stain gets down to about 1/4 full, you should thoroughly mix up a new container you plan to use and pour about 1/4 of the new container into the used container. Mix the combined stain well, and then use the mixed stain to continue applying the stain. Although we take great strides to maintain consistency within and between manufactured lots, boxing containers ensures that there will be no noticeable color difference as you go from one container to the next.
What should you use to mix our products?
Just about any type of paint mixer that fits into a cordless drill will work. We prefer one called a Jiffy Mixer since it has a ring around the stirring blades that prevents chipping plastic buckets, and its design prevents air being forced into the product.
How Do I Know If The Stain Wasn’t Mixed Properly?
Inadequate mixing is easy to tell: the color on a wall goes from light to dark as the stain gets closer to the bottom of the pail. Unfortunately, there is no fix other than stripping the finish off and starting over again. Proper mixing and boxing of finishes will avoid this issue.
Do I Need to Mix Clear Topcoats?
Short answer: Yes. Since our Lifeline Advance™ Gloss and Satin and Acrylic Gloss and Satin topcoats are clear and colorless, some individuals think that they do not have to be mixed before application. These clear coats consist of several components that may stratify in the container over time. Even though you may not be able to see the different layers, they need to be mixed together for use.
Questions?
In addition to manufacturing the best log home finishes you can buy, one of our commitments is to give you the information you need to do a truly professional job. If you have any questions give us a call at 1-800-548-3554 or chat with us online.
The Difference is Clear, but it’s NOT What You Think.
It makes sense that the more your product costs, the higher the quality of ingredients.
To prove this point, the professionals in the industry performed a careful analysis that shows that in the long run, it’s less expensive to apply the very best quality stain, despite its higher initial cost.
How Does a Low-Cost Option Cost More?
Field tests show that while low-quality finishes last two years or less, top-quality, 100-percent acrylic polymer finishes such as the LIFELINE™ Ultra family from Perma-Chink Systems last five years or more when applied to a properly prepared surface and maintained on a regular basis.
A simple comparison of the cost of a gallon of stain is a mistake because all stains differ in their lifespan, coverage rate and quality of appearance and protection.
A high-performance finish gives long-lasting color retention using a balanced formulation of transparent iron oxides and long-lasting mildew inhibitors.
How Do More Expensive Finishes Last Longer?
The secret behind durability is state-of-the-art resins that create a flexible and tough seal on logs. Perhaps more importantly than the seal’s strength, the resin also ensures that the seal is continuous, providing protection from holes and gaps that might otherwise develop with a lower-quality finish. In addition, it has unsurpassed adhesion to wood.
It’s this continuity that has proven to be much more resistant to UV degradation, color fading and adhesion loss. And just like all LIFELINE finishes, the water-resistant film breathes just like Gore-Tex® to allow trapped moisture to evaporate from the logs.
What Does A Clear Coat Do?
By applying a clear topcoat, you also have the opportunity to create a gloss or satin finish and greatly extend the life of the stain system.
Adding a high-performance clear exterior topcoat over the wood finish acts much as an automotive clear coat to enhance the appearance and extend the life of the finish.
UV And Water Protection Are Important
While UV inhibitors are included in some high-quality stains, your finish should also repel rain but be permeable to water vapor to allow trapped moisture in your logs to evaporate, and the Perma- Chink Systems products do just that. For topcoats and base stain, LIFELINE provides you with options that “breathe,” allowing moisture within the logs to evaporate while reducing checking. Clear topcoats boost protection against UV rays and add water repellency – while making your exterior walls easier to clean. Additionally, LIFELINE Advance clear topcoat is environmentally-friendly, as a water-based formula that is low in VOCs and meets regulatory compliance in all 50 states.
We Use What We Sell
“I have personally applied every one of our products on my log house in Colorado. That furniture grade finish not only provides the best protection for the logs, but it also literally distinguishes the house. I and my staff continuously evaluate every stain on the market and when it comes to ultimate endurance, furniture grade appearance, ease of application and environmentally responsible formulation, there is only one choice – Perma-Chink Systems.”
– Rich Dunstan
Contact Us For Questions or Orders
1-800-548-3554 – www.PermaChink.com – Store Locations – As always, we offer free samples; order at Store.PermaChink.com.
Since interior finishes are not exposed to rain, snow, wind, and direct sunlight, long term resistance to weather is not an issue, and homeowners have more flexibility when choosing the color and appearance of interior wood surfaces. However, there are some parameters that need to be followed to take advantage of the benefits of an interior finish, such as preventing odor absorption and making the walls easy to keep clean, while getting the look you desire as well.
The first question to consider is do you want to apply a color to your wood surfaces, or do you want to retain the wood’s natural color? One reason for adding a color is to even out the overall color of the walls. Even if only one species of wood is used for interior surfaces, there may be slight color differences from log to log that disrupt the uniformity of a wall. A colored stain will help diminish these differences. Another reason for applying a color is that over time, sunlight coming in through the windows may darken exposed surfaces. There are ways to slow this process even on unstained surfaces, but the application of a pigmented stain will slow this process even more.
Let’s assume you’ve decided to add a bit of color. How many color coats do you need to apply? As opposed to exterior surfaces, it’s more a matter of obtaining the color you want than being concerned about long term performance. If one coat works, that’s all you’ll need. If, after two coats, you want your walls a bit darker, there is no problem applying a third coat. One thing we do recommend when applying a color to bare wood is to add a dose of UV Boost to the first coat of stain. It helps make the wood UV stable and further reduces the “picture frame” effect on areas that exposed to direct sunlight. Since it only works when applied to bare wood, it does no good to add it to subsequent coats.
But what if you decide not to apply a colored stain to your walls? In this case we recommend that the bare wood be first primed with Prelude™ Clear Water-Based Wood Primer. Prelude seals the wood surface, so you’ll use less Acrylic or Sure Shine Gloss or Satin, and since it already contains UV Boost, it adds UV protection to the wood.
If you have applied LIFELINE™ Interior stain or Prelude, do you still need to apply a clear topcoat?
Yes, the formulation of LIFELINE Interior, Accents and Prelude is designed for flexibility and excellent adhesion to wood but the polymers we use to attain these attributes are slightly soft, and dust and dirt can adhere to them. When top-coated with Acrylic Gloss or Satin or Sure Shine, the finish surfaces become much more impervious to dirt pick-up. Since they are slick and smooth they can be kept clean with much less effort. The bottom line is that the application of LIFELINE Interior, LIFELINE Accents or Prelude should always include applying either Acrylic Gloss or Satin or Sure Shine over them.
Equipment to Have on Hand
Ladders, ladder jacks and platform, if necessary
Electric Drill
Paint mixer (available from Perma-Chink Systems or most paint stores and DIY outlets)
High quality paint or stain brushes (this is not an area to cut costs)
Clean rags and sponge
HVLP Hand Sprayer
Spray equipment if desired
Do not use a standard airless sprayer inside a home, especially if it is furnished. The use of airless sprayers will result in overspray getting on areas that you may not want stained. A much better option is buying or renting an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) sprayer. HVLP sprayers are available for less than $100.00, but don’t hold a lot of product at a time. The real advantage to HVLP sprayers is that overspray is kept to a minimum, plus they are very easy to handle and control.
Preparing Interior Wood Surfaces Prior to Applying a Lifeline Finish
Interior walls and ceilings must be cleaned prior to finishing but if your home is furnished you are somewhat limited in the available cleaning methods since the use of a pressure washer is typically not an option. If you want your interior walls smooth, sanding may be your only choice. As opposed to exterior surfaces you can buff interior wood surfaces using 100 grit or finer sandpaper or 120 grit Osborn Brushes. Although your interior wood surfaces may appear to be clean, they are never clean enough to apply a finish to them without first washing them with an appropriate cleaning solution like Log Wash™.
Step 1: Mix one half or one cup of Log Wash Concentrate with one gallon of warm water, if available, in a pail.
Step 2: Apply the Log Wash solution to the wall with a rag or sponge. Allow the solution to remain on the wall for about 10 minutes.
Step 3: Using a clean rag or sponge and a pail of clean water, wipe the Log Wash solution off of the surface. Frequently rinse the sponge or rag in the pail of water and occasionally exchange the water in the pail with clean water.
Step 4: Allow the surface to dry before applying the first coat of finish.
Applying Lifeline Prelude, Interior Stains and Acrylic Topcoats
Step 1: Remove the lid from the pail and stir the contents for at least 5 minutes using an electric drill and a paint mixer. Be sure that all of the pigments are uniformly dispersed throughout the product. Mixing is also required for clear Lifeline products such as Prelude and Acrylic Gloss and Satin. When mixing Acrylic Satin make sure that none of the flatting agent remains on the bottom of the pail.
Note: When using pigmented stains we recommend “boxing” containers as they get close to empty. When a container gets down to about 1/4 full, mix up the next container you plan to use and pour about 1/4 of it into the previous container, mix them together and then use the mixed stain to continue. This ensures that there will be no noticeable color difference as you go from one container to the next. It is not necessary to box Prelude, Acrylic, or Sure Shine.
Step 2: Use a high quality brush or HVLP sprayer to apply the first coat of pigmented interior stain or Prelude Clear Wood Primer. Start the application at the top of the wall and work your way down. This avoids having to set a ladder against a wet finish and allows you to work out any drips and runs that may occur during the application process. Be sure to back-brush the finish as you move along.
Step 3: Work on one or two courses of logs at a time. Lifeline finishes are made to go on in thin coats, do not flood the surface with product. Continue brushing until you have spread the finish out as far as it will go.
Step 4: While maintaining a wet edge continue the application process until you come to a break point like a window frame or butt end of the log. Never stop in the middle of a log. If you do, you will end up with a lap mark that will be difficult or impossible to hide.
Step 5: Continue the application process working your way down the wall until the wall is completed.
Step 6: In the case of a pigmented interior stain, allow the finish to dry before deciding whether you want to apply an additional coat. The color will change as it dries so don’t make your decision until the wall is completely dry. Do not attempt to sand or buff Lifeline color coats or Prelude.
Step 7: Once you are satisfied with the color, apply at least one coat of Lifeline Acrylic Gloss and Satin using the same application technique as the color coats. Once the first coat of Acrylic Gloss or Satin has been applied and allowed time to dry, the surface may be sanded smooth using fine sandpaper. Sanding will not be necessary between subsequent coats. If Sure Shine Polyurethane Premium Finish is to be used as the topcoat, read the next section.
Step 8: Clean brushes and equipment with soap and water.
Applying Sure Shine Polyurethane Premium Finish
Step 1: Remove the lid from the pail and gently stir the contents of the pail with a paint paddle. Do not use a paint mixer or vigorously shake the container. It will entrap air into the product. When mixing Sure Shine Satin, make sure that none of the flatting agent remains on the bottom of the pail.
Step 2: Sure Shine is best applied with a high quality brush or short bristled paint pad using slow, even strokes. Vigorous brushing will form bubbles in the film and result in a rough surface. The viscosity of Sure Shine allows a thicker coat to be applied than when using Acrylic Gloss or Satin. You will still need to backbrush but use smooth, slow strokes.
Step 3: Once the first coat has completely dried, the surface may be sanded smooth using 180 grit or higher sandpaper. If the surface is the slightest bit soft, sanding will generate little pills of finish and make a mess of the surface. Sanding will not be necessary between subsequent coats.
Step 4: Clean brushes and equipment with soap and water.
Maintenance of Interior Surfaces
Maintenance of interior finished surfaces is fairly simple. A once a year cleaning with a one cup per gallon Log Wash solution is all that you’ll need to do. You don’t need to use a lot of water. Just wipe the surface with a rag dampened with the Log Wash solution and then go back over it with a rag and clean water. To avoid any water spots you can wipe the surface again with a dry rag.
We’ve all done it – slapped on a coat of paint, then looked at the fresh paint and the old paint, realizing they’re quite a bit different in color. Panic ensues, until the new paint dries and it blends in perfectly with the old color. This situation can occur with Check Mate 2, which does dry darker in color that when initially applied.
Although the color of Check Mate 2® may be apparent right out of the tube (gray verses brown, for example), the final shade of the color will not be evident until the Check Mate 2 has had a chance to dry. The picture below helps show what happens.
Although the Medium Brown looks light when first applied, after five hours the color matches closely the color of Check Mate 2 Medium Brown that had been allowed to cure several days. This test was done inside at room temperature. Cold temperatures and humid conditions will obviously delay the drying process. But the important fact is that the color of Check Mate 2 will darken as it dries.
Check Mate 2 is our specially-designed sealant for checks, and for the How-To to seal checks, read our Tech Tip here.
Log Wash is The Easy-to-Use Cleaner for Interior and Exterior Surfaces
The initial reason we developed Log Wash™ was for cleaning finished log home exterior surfaces. We found that all of the products typically recommended for general maintenance cleaning like Spic & Span, Mr. Clean or even mild dishwashing soaps softened finished surfaces during the cleaning process. This resulted in potential finish damage, especially if a pressure washer or a brush was used. It turned out that the one thing these cleaners all had in common was their high pH. When we tried the Log Wash formulation we found that it hardened the surface of our finish system and no damage occurred to the finish – even with vigorous scrubbing. It was only later that we discovered the benefits of using Log Wash on bare wood.
Why is Log Wash Better?
First and foremost is its pH. It is one of only a handful of cleaning products on the market that has a slightly acidic pH similar to that of wood. This means that when applied to wood it does not disrupt the wood’s chemistry, thus avoiding many of the discolorations attributed to high-alkaline solutions like bleach or strong acids like oxalic acid. Another feature of Log Wash is that it’s easy to tell when it has been sufficiently rinsed off. While rinsing Log Wash, it will foam as long as any residue remains on the wood. When the foaming stops, it’s a good indication that the wall has been adequately rinsed.
One of the biggest surprises we encountered with the use of Log Wash on bare wood has been how well it removes some types of discolorations due to tannins or chemical imbalances. There have been several occasions when discolorations we thought would be difficult, if not impossible, to remove ended up being no problem at all with the exterior application of a solution of two cups Log Wash per one gallon of water. Cleaning a finished log or timber exterior requires one cup Log Wash per one gallon of water. Interior cleaning application is recommended at one-half cup to one cup Log Wash per one gallon water.
Works on Exterior & Interior
As mentioned earlier, Log Wash is more than capable for cleaning interior wood surfaces as well. While the interior usually doesn’t get as dirty as the exterior, over time it can collect pollen, dust, grease and more. Utilizing Log Wash on interior wood will make your home look fresh and clean.
Stock up on Log Wash now – you will be amazed with the results! The use of Log Wash for maintenance cleaning has been proven to extend the life of the finish as well as keeping your home looking beautiful.
If your log or timber home is built with wood like Western Red Cedar, Redwood, Walnut or Mahogany, use Cedar Wash™ instead of Log Wash for better surface preparation and finish longevity for these specific wood substrates. Read more about Cedar Wash™ here.
New Bare Wood or Restoration?
Since we started promoting the use of Log Wash for cleaning bare wood the number of compliments we receive from homeowners and applicators about its performance has increased. Have a log home that doesn’t have a finish, either new construction or recently stripped of finish? Read how Log Wash will best prepare your bare log surfaces here.
Cleaning Interior Bare Wood Surfaces
Interior walls and ceilings must be cleaned prior to finishing. If your home is completed, you are somewhat limited in the available cleaning methods since the use of a pressure washer is typically not an option. If you want your interior walls smooth, sanding may be your best and only choice. As opposed to exterior surfaces, you can sand interior wood surfaces using 120 grit sandpaper or Osborn brush.
Although your interior wood surfaces may appear to be clean, they are never clean enough to apply a finish to them without first washing them with an appropriate cleaning solution like Log Wash.
Step 1: Mix one half or one cup of Log Wash Concentrate with one gallon of warm water, if available, in a pail.
Step 2: Apply the Log Wash solution to the wall with a rag or sponge starting at the bottom and work up. Allow the solution to remain on the wall for at least 10 minutes.
Step 3: Using a clean rag or sponge and a pail of clean water, wipe the Log Wash solution off of the surface. Frequently rinse the sponge or rag in the pail of water and occasionally exchange the water in the pail with clean water.
Step 4: Allow the surface to completely dry before applying the first coat of finish.
Perma-Chink Systems has a full line of wood cleaners designed to clean, restore, and prepare your home for maintenance. We cover the basic cleaning, as well as how to handle known wood issues like resin bleed.
Lifeline™ Ultra-7 is the most durable exterior wood stain that Perma-Chink Systems has ever developed. After multiple exposure tests in harsh-weather areas across the country (think snow country, the sunny southeast and extreme mountain locations), Lifeline Ultra-7 stands out as THE top-of-the-line, long-lasting wood finish. The secret behind its durability is Lifeline Ultra-7’s state-of-the-art resin that creates a tough, yet flexible and breathable finish on your home’s logs. Perhaps more importantly than Ultra-7’s strength is the resin, which ensures that the finish is continuous, providing protection from holes and gaps that might otherwise develop with lower-quality finishes. In addition, Ultra-7 has unsurpassed adhesion to wood.
By choosing a high-performance log home finish like Lifeline Ultra-7, you are ensuring that the finish will look as beautiful years after application as it did the day it was applied thanks to a balanced formula of transparent iron oxides, fungi and algae inhibitors (biocides), and an advanced polymer resin.
I personally have had good experience with Ultra-7 when used with the Advance topcoat. I restored my children’s wooden playset five years ago. I used Wood Renew to take it back to bare wood, then rinsed until pH neutral and applied Ultra-7 Bronze, followed by Advance topcoat – and it still looks fantastic today. I went back about a year ago and re-applied the Advance topcoat. I expect many more years out of this system. It works great.
I will also add this caution: if the topcoat is not used with Ultra-7, you can expect problems quickly. The topcoat helps keep the water away from the binder in Ultra-7. It has a high acid value which makes it more water-loving and as such, will tend to hold on to water for longer periods of time. Water is one of the primary ingredients needed for biological growth to occur, and even with the biocides present, over time micro-organisms will take up residence in the film. This occurs as water moves in and out of the film more readily as the topcoat degrades, taking with it biocides, and making the film even more vulnerable to attack. So to help protect the film, and ultimately the wood, both the topcoat and the biocides in the coating work together to make a winning combination. The clear topcoat helps lock the biocides in place so that they can do their job.
This playset was erected several years before we bought our home. I am going to guess that it weathered for 5-10 years with no coating at all. The original wood finish of one coat of Ultra-7 Bronze and Lifeline Advance gloss was applied in 2013, with a maintenance coat of Advance roughly 5 years later. I am very happy with the performance of this system.
EDDIE McDANIELS – DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS, PERMA-CHINK SYSTEMS, INC.
I’ve had the privilege of being with Perma-Chink Systems for 32 years. My journey began when I was unemployed and a friend working at Perma-Chink informed me of an opening. I applied, was hired, and have been dedicated to the company ever since.
Initially, I spent 1.5 years in the shipping department and then 4 years in production. These roles provided me with valuable, independent insights into both the manufacturing of our products and the accuracy required in fulfilling orders, as well as managing finished goods inventory and warehouse operations.
My career took a new direction when our Sr. VP of Operations, Tony Huddleston, approached me with an opportunity to travel and train in log home maintenance and restoration. I eagerly accepted this challenge, which led me to travel extensively across the U.S., gaining experience in nearly every state and accumulating significant road miles.
Under Tony’s mentorship, I deepened my understanding of our products, their applications, and how we could enhance our offerings. This role evolved beyond training to include hosting mobile seminars, attending log home shows, and conducting on-site evaluations of unique customer situations. Over the years, I have personally inspected and assisted with over 10,000 log homes, further expanding my knowledge of log care, manufacturing processes, and industry trends.
My interactions with customers helped shape new product ideas, which I collaborated on with upper management and our chemist, leading to the development of maintenance-friendly products that work seamlessly together.
For 22 years I also served as the Store Manager for our Sevierville, TN branch. This role allowed me to continue engaging with customers, provide training, visit job sites, and build strong relationships within the local community.
This year, I was honored to accept the position of Director of Operations at our Knoxville, TN manufacturing facility. I am excited to leverage my extensive experience to drive continued improvements in our products and customer experience, aligning with Perma-Chink Systems’ commitment to excellence.
Finishes & Stains
Calling our pigmented finishes “stains” can be a bit confusing, but we understand how finishes can be called a stain. The term “stain” implies that the wood fibers are stained with the colorants contained in the products. However, in the case of film-forming water-based finishes, like our LIFELINE™ family of finishes, the wood fibers are not impregnated with the colorants. Our LIFELINE finishes behave more like latex paints than penetrating oil-based stains. Yet we can refer to our finishes as stains or varnish since that is what the market is used to. Our newest finish, Log & Timber Defense, is a semi-transparent finish that penetrates like oils, but without the negative effects of oil-based stains.
Pigmented Finishes
Speaking of pigmented finishes, that’s just a fancy way of saying we have finishes with color. And do we add color. We offer the most color options for log and timber homes of anyone on the market. Many homeowners choose finishes that highlight the natural beauty of wood, selecting colors like Dark Honey, Dark Natural, or Cedar. Others enjoy a deep, rich color base like Chestnut, Walnut, or Classic Brown.
A few years ago we saw grays as a key color for paint, home textiles, and interiors. And second only to blue as the most popular color for menswear. We expanded our color options to include more gray tints, offering trend-setting gray tints. Depending on your personal choice, our family of grays extend from a lovely aged-wood Smoke color to a New England-style Barn Gray. And with our ability to make custom colors, you can find a gray somewhere in between – or any other color for that matter.
Whatever color direction you choose, know our products provide exceptional coverage, lasting color, and superior protection when used as part of the Perma-Chink System. If you’re undecided on what color you should finish your log or timber home in, don’t worry! We offer free samples of all our finishes so you can be confident in your choice of color.
Topcoats
One of the most frequently asked questions we receive about our LIFELINE Advance™ topcoat is why don’t we include the topcoat in with the stain. The answer to this simple question is that if we did, it would no longer be a topcoat. Topcoats play a specific role in protecting any finish system.
Our Advance topcoat plays essentially the same role as an automotive clearcoat, protecting the color coats from the weather, sunlight, and dirt.
Unlike other brands, Advance is specifically designed as a high performing topcoat with a unique set of characteristics that has yet to be duplicated by anyone else in our industry. One of the reasons Lifeline Advance outperforms all other topcoats is that it is designed for a very specific purpose and should never be applied to bare wood.
Pairing Finishes and Topcoat – The Winning Combination
When you pair a LIFELINE finish with Advance, you get the maximum protection for your log home. This combination provides long-lasting color for your home, with the topcoat giving the home protection from the elements. Your home will look great for years to come.
Free Samples! And Excellent Customer Service
If you’re ready to finish your log or timber home, or have a renovation project that needs a finish, we are here to help. Sample orders and product orders can be fulfilled online at store.permachink.com or you can call any of our nationwide stores at 800-548-3554.
Some of the most vulnerable areas of a log home are the corner log ends. This is because the cross section end grain is exposed and the ends often stick out beyond the walls, allowing sunlight, wind, rain, snow, and ice to wear away the stain and expose bare wood. Logs can safely absorb large quantities of water before reaching moisture content levels that will be inviting for decay fungi.
The exposed end grain acts like small straws sucking water into the log, giving rot and decay an opportunity to start eating away the wood. In addition, wood cracks and checks are prone to start at the ends. If left unprotected long enough, log or log corner replacement may eventually be required.
Being aware of the susceptibility of log ends to weathering, rot and decay, we developed Log End Seal™, a clear polymer finish that prevents water from penetrating into log ends and provides a layer of protection against log end damage. Although it is a sealer, Log End Seal is designed to allow moisture already in the wood to slowly escape. This helps reduce those large checks that often form on log ends.
To prevent excessive moisture absorption, Perma-Chink Systems developed Log End Seal, a product unique and specially formulated to protect log ends. Although Log End Seal is a fairly simple and easy product to use, there are some tips that can help you avoid problems especially in the fall when cooler temperatures slow down the curing process.
The basic steps of applying Log End Seal:
- Sand log ends with 60-grit sanding disc or paper
- Apply Lifeline finish
- Apply Log End Seal
- Apply Advance Topcoat
Let’s take a more detailed look at the individual application steps.
Step 1: Sand log ends with a sanding disc or sandpaper (60-grit). Log End Seal requires application in one (1) thin coat. In order to attain a thin coat, the log ends need to be sanded fairly smooth. If the ends are not smooth, the rough surface texture will prevent a thin coat application. This will result in thicker film, and will take longer to cure.
Step 2: Apply the Lifeline finish on the sanded ends, ensuring complete coverage. Allow time for the finish to dry before applying Log End Seal.
Step 3: Apply one thin coat of Log End Seal to the log ends, after the Lifeline finish has dried. Log End Seal white until it is fully cured, and if it gets wet during the curing process, the white color can last for several weeks. If Log End Seal is applied in a thick coat and gets wet, it may take several weeks or months for it to become completely clear and transparent. This is the most frequent cause of complaint from our customers. Eventually it will cure and become clear, but in the meantime, the log ends on your home will have a white haze.
Tip: Choosing the right application tool can help prevent applying too thick a film. Rather than using a standard paintbrush, a paint pad or sponge brush works best. Since Log End Seal is thick and viscous, some people prefer to apply Log End Seal with a wide-blade trowel. Any of these tools will work as long as the Log End Seal is applied in a thin coat.
Step 4: Finally, apply a single coat of Lifeline Advance™ to help protect the Log End Seal surface to remain clean and dry.
Coverage Rate: When applied correctly, one gallon of Log End Seal goes a long way. One gallon covers 30 to 40 square feet, which equates to 100 eight-inch diameter log ends, or 180 six-inch diameter log ends.