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There are two kinds of wood – wood that is rotten, and wood that one day will be rotten. This statement may seem a bit extreme, but it is a fact. Wood is a product of nature and its nature is to return to the earth in a natural process. As professional log home contractors, it is our job to ensure that wood used in the construction of log homes lasts for many years.
Borates have been used to preserve wood for many years, and because people have lately become more concerned with the toxicity of products used in their homes, it has steadily grown in popularity. We will discuss the use of borates to preserve log homes in detail.
What are borates and how do they work?
Simply put borates or borax are naturally-occurring water-soluable salt-like acids. They are about as toxic as table salt to humans and pets but kill wood-consuming insects like termites, powder-post beetles, and old house borers. More importantly, it kills the wood destroying microorganisms that cause rot.
Rot in log or conventional homes causes hundreds of times more damage to homes every year than damage by insects.
For borates to be effective, they must be actually eaten by an organism. Borates are not effective against carpenter bees because they do not actually consume wood – they just chew it. Interestingly enough, consuming borates does not instantly kill termites or other wood destroying insects. It does however kill the bacteria in their digestive system. These bacteria actually help the insect digest the cellulose fibers that make up a piece of wood. Without these bacteria, the insects die of starvation. Funny how nature works.
Borates
Borax, also known as sodium borate, sodium tetraborate, or disodium tetraborate, is an important boron compound, a mineral, and a salt of boric acid. Powdered borax is white, consisting of soft colorless crystals that dissolve easily in water.
Borax is a component of many detergents, cosmetics, and enamel glazes. It is used to make buffer solutions in biochemistry, as a fire retardant, as an anti-fungal compound, in the manufacture of fiberglass, a texturing agent in cooking, as a precursor for other boron compounds, and along with its inverse, boric acid, is useful as an insecticide.
Types of Borates
Perma-Chink Systems markets four different forms of borates for the purpose of preserving wood. Armor Guard is sold as a powder that is mixed with water on-site and then sprayed onto wood. Shell Guard RTU comes pre-mixed and is Ready-To-Use. Shell Guard Concentrate contains the highest concentration of Borax with food-grade glycol added to deepen penetration into wood and must be mixed with additional water on-site. The Concentrate is usually used in extremely wet or rot-prone conditions or on active rot or insect infestations. Cobra-Rods are made from borax and copper which have been compressed and heated to form a glass-like rod of borax which is inserted into holes drilled in rot-prone areas like porch posts. Cobra Rods are so effective that they are now inserted into all new utility poles installed in the southern U.S. Please call us or visit www.permachink.com for more detailed preservative application information on the use of these products.

Armor-Guard®
Sold as a powder that is mixed with water on-site and then sprayed onto wood.

Shell-Guard® RTU
Comes pre-mixed and is Ready-To-Use.

Shell-Guard® Concentrate
Contains the highest concentration of Borax with food-grade glycol added to deepen wood penetration and must be mixed with additional water on-site. The Concentrate is usually used in extremely wet or rot-prone conditions, on active rot, or insect infestations.

Cobra-Rods®
Made from borax and copper, are compressed and heated to form a glass-like rod. The rods are inserted into holes drilled in rot-prone areas, like porch posts. Cobra Rods are so effective that they are now inserted into all new utility poles installed in the southern U.S.
When most homes are constructed, the logs are clean and smooth with very few checks, or cracks, in the logs. During the first few years, these checks open up, expand, and deepen. Many checks extend to the center of the log – much deeper than any topical application of borax can effectively reach. These exposed deep checks CAN and DO collect water. Over time, this will cause the log to rot. It is very important to include the application of borates into checks during any and all maintenance work done on a log home prior to a maintenance coat of stain, clear coat, or caulking.
Special and Unusual Applications
I have used borate treatments over the years in many other special and unusual applications that I will list below.
For antique log homes – Owners of antique log homes have spent a lot of money purchasing old logs, timbers, and siding because of their unique appearance. They love that silvery-gray rough texture inherent to old timbers. They are very reluctant to remove this look in order to properly apply a protective waterproof coating that would protect these logs from rot.
An alternative for this unique and growing segment of the market is to simply treat the exposed logs every year with borates. The treatment must be done every year because borates are water-soluable and rain will eventually leach the product out of the wood.
The borates will not change the color of the wood and it is almost impossible to over-apply.
For additional protection against insects inside new homes – During initial construction, spread powdered Armor-Guard into open stud wall cavities and on the floor where base cabinets are to be located. Then close up the stud walls and install the base cabinets. The borate powder will stay in those locations forever and kill all roaches and ants that come in contact with Armor-Guard.
Now, I told you earlier that insects must consume the product to be effective and that is true. Insects can crawl through the powder without being harmed. However, ants and roaches belong to a group of insects which constantly groom themselves to stay clean – or a clean as a roach or ant can be. To stay clean, they lick their legs and other body parts. When they do, they consume the borate and will die.
For log replacement projects – I highly recommend a thorough treatment of all replacement logs and log siding with liquid borates and Cobra Rods. The chances are that homeowners who have not maintained their homes in the past will probably neglect them in the future.
A more permanent treatment today will lower your liability in the future as a contractor. An even better plan would be to have replacement logs pressure-treated with borates. There are probably more companies that provide that service, but I do know that Appalachian Log Structures, Lok-N-Logs, and Sisson DuPont Carder will pressure-treat logs for use in log replacement. They all also produce many different log profiles. If I were to replace a log on a customer’s home that was pressure-treated, I would have no problem extending a lifetime warranty on that log – a good selling point for log home contractors.
For active infestations – I have successfully used borates against insects that are actively living in isolated spots on structures. In the pictures below, powder-post beetles infested barn wood on my porch. I injected Shell-Guard RTU into the actual holes using a syringe made for injecting marinade into food.
Any plastic syringe will work when held tightly against the hole to inject the liquid.


I treated these holes one afternoon and found them dead on my counter-top the next day. I may have simply drowned them, but that was a year ago and they have not returned.
The same type of method can be used in isolated areas of rot or termite damage using – believe it or not – a bulb-type turkey baster or cheap ketchup squirt bottle. Simply drill angled holes into the wood on the upper part of the log (you have to drill to get the product into the wood past the existing water-proof stain on most logs) and insert the bottle or baster full of borate solution into the hole and walk away for a couple of days. The liquid will slowly soak into the log and saturate a large section of log. If the product simply flows quickly into the log, then you will probably be facing a log that is too far gone and it may need to be re-faced or replaced. Once the product is deep in the log, it will soon kill the rot or termites.
I recommend Shell-Guard Concentrate for this procedure as it has the highest concentration of borates. Remove the delivery device and add a Cobra Rod as extra insurance and longevity.
For log railings – Log railings exposed to the weather are a maintenance nightmare. They are very difficult to maintain a stain coating on because they develop checks on the upper curvature of the rails which gather water. However, when located on a raised deck or stairway, they can be downright dangerous. How many homes have you visited a homeowner who warns you not to lean on the railing during your inspection of the home?
Think about it – the only thing between you and serious accident is a rotted handrail! Many state codes now require pressure-treated handrails.
These things are a serious safety problem – and this warning does include cedar or redwood which last longer, but also rot.


If you are at a new home site, you can treat new hand rails as they are assembled by drilling a hole into the end of each spindle and inserting a Cobra Rod. The borates and copper will dissolve into the surrounding wood and protect against rot. I would also soak all the components in one of our other liquid borate products. A pain, but better than an accident.
If you have more questions, please contact us 1-800-548-3554.
Please visit Perma-Chink’s How-To Tips or Preservatives for more detailed application information on the use of these products.
In many areas of the country when cool, fall days arrive, Asian lady beetles (ladybugs), Harmonia axyridis, and boxelder bugs, Boisea trivittatus, congregate on exterior walls. They typically choose the south and west facing walls since these walls are the warmest. Once on the wall they look for nooks, crannies and other dark openings where they can hibernate over the winter. Log checks, gaps between butt joints and corner openings provide ideal wintering sites for these insects. If any opening leads to the inside of the home, they can become a real nuisance, especially if they enter in large numbers. An effective method to handle them inside is with a vacuum cleaner. Spraying them with pesticides is unnecessary and unhealthy.
The best way to keep them out of your home is to block their entry points with a sealant, screening and weather stripping. Using high quality sealants like Energy Seal™ or Woodsman™ will help prevent these and other insects from entering your home for years to come. When sealing, pay special attention to window and door frames. That’s where openings typically appear as a home settles and logs season.

Although ladybugs and boxelder bugs do no damage or reproduce indoors, they can still be a nuisance. If a gathering of insects on the exterior walls of your home bothers you, spray them with a simple solution of soap or detergent and water. To help keep them off of the walls, you can use a pesticide containing deltamethrin, cypermethrin, permethrin or bifenthrin. These products only last about three to four weeks, so the treatment will have to be repeated every so often and should only be used during periods of peak activity. Be sure to follow label directions and read and understand all precautions that must be taken when using any pesticide.
Most pest control companies offer some type of exterior treatment for these insects as well. But be aware that any type of exterior treatment must be applied before the insects enter the home in the fall of the year.

Your decks and railings do not weather in a uniform fashion like your log walls. After a year or two with some deck stains, areas exposed to direct sunlight may hold little or no trace of the original finish, while shaded surfaces may show very little, if any degradation.
Maintaining Your Deck
There are three primary elements to your deck which can maximize longevity and structural integrity as well as aesthetics. These include periodic maintenance between applications of stain, preparation of applying new stain and the staining itself.
Regardless of the stain used on your deck, its life can be extended with periodic cleaning. Pooling water can easily be swept off with a push-broom, which can help prevent premature failure of your deck stain. However, cleaning it periodically will make the biggest contribution to maximizing its life and appearance. A diluted solution of Log Wash™ (1 cup per gallon) can easily be applied through a garden pump sprayer ($20 – $30 at any garden center or hardware store) then lightly pressure washed off. If you don’t have access to a pressure washer, a strong jet stream from a garden hose will also work. Remember, here you are trying to clean the deck, not remove the finish.
For decks that may have excessive levels of dirt, mildew, green algae, etc., the mechanical action of scrubbing or using a medium bristle push broom after applying Log Wash will help a lot. Make sure to thoroughly rinse off all detergents as you never want them to dry on the wood surface.


For decks that have darkened from sun exposure with little or no stain left, a deeper pressure washing can be done to remove the darkened surface in order to get down to clean, bright wood. Photos 1 and 2 above show these results. If necessary, Wood ReNew™ and a pressure washer may be used to clean away any gray UV damaged wood fibers, as well as deep rooted mold and dirt residue.
Your deck is ready to stain immediately after cleaning. Pick your color and apply 1 coat of Deck Defense. Once the initial coat of Deck Defense applied to bare wood, a future maintenance coat applied to a surface previously coated with Deck Defense is easy – clean and recoat, no mechanical or chemical stripping required.
Have you noticed your heating bill increasing year after year? It could be that your home has cracks that let heat escape, costing you money. Seal up cracks and seams before the weather turns cold and it’s too late to do anything about it.
Specifically designed for milled and scribed log homes, Energy Seal is a revolutionary product offering superior binders that effectively seal all interior and exterior gaps and cracks.
Energy Seal is a 100% acrylic polymer sealant formulated to provide a long-lasting and resilient barrier for any chinkless log home. Since logs constantly twist, turn, swell, and shrink during the life of a log home, annoying gaps can appear. These gaps promote the retention of moisture, which can lead to log decay and damage, as well as seepage of air and water.
Energy Seal will virtually eliminate these problematic gaps by adhering directly to the logs while eliminating any air space. When applied on your log home it stops outside air infiltration, increasing energy efficiency.
Energy Seal is not affected by ultraviolet rays and resists most chemicals, salt spray, mold & mildew, and has low thermal conductivity.
Log homes can tend to appear darker because wood absorbs excess light. Energy Seal’s lightly textured design and colors reflect light to brighten and even out log wall tones, dramatically eliminating shadow lines.

Unlike commonly used caulks, which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood and look like it belongs there. It easily tools to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it’s applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls, most people can’t tell the seams are sealed.
There is nothing on the market that can beat Energy Seal’s natural appearing colors, ease of application, coverage and hiding properties: Energy Seal is the only product created for the unique sealant needs of the milled log home.
Check out the color selection of Energy Seal to complement your finish. Enhance the beauty of your home and start saving money right away!

We are proud to announce our new supply of the widest range of dispensing tools in the industry from Albion Engineering Company. Albion is a high quality alternative to the tools typically found in hardware stores and do-it-yourself outlets. Professional tools, built to last.
1. The Albion Bulk Loading Caulking Gun is our most popular tool for applying Perma-Chink or Energy Seal. It is built to meet the demands of serious professionals, utilizing rugged, heavy-duty all steel drives and lightweight aluminum barrels to reliably dispense a wide range of materials.
Available sizes 20 oz. and 30 oz.
- Professional Quality
- Efficient 12:1 Drive Ratio
- Lightweight Aluminum Barrel
- Double Grip Plates for Long Life
- No Spanner Wrench Needed!
- Barrel Rotates for no-stop application
- Kit includes 3 nozzles, one spare piston and a steel ladder hook-pull
2. Albion Smooth Rod Manual Drive Guns are Portable, Efficient, and Adaptable.
Heavy duty cradle smooth rod rod caulking guns. Great for professional use where bead consistency, control and clean up save time and money. A simple push of the recoil releases all pressure on the plunger and instantly stops the flow of sealant. To remove the tube, press the lever and pull back on the rod to expose the entire tube and slip it out of the gun.
Smooth Rod Style Caulking Guns for applying Perma-Chink, Energy Seal, Check Mate 2 and Woodsman.
Available in sizes for 11 oz. tubes and 30 oz. tubes

- Professional Quality
- Smooth Rod for reliable dispensing
- Efficient 12:1 Mechanical Advantage Drive
- Convenient Thumb-Release for no run-on caulking
- Full size handle for comfortable dispensing
3. Cordless Guns with a State-of-the-Art Performance, Portability and Control.
How Fast is Fast! A Cordless Gun can dramatically decrease the amount of time on a chinking job.
Available in sizes for 11 oz. tubes and 30 oz. tubes AND 20 oz. bulk

- Powerful – 400 lbs. of Dispensing Force
- Fast – Dispense 11 oz. Cartridge in 16 seconds
- Lightweight Aluminum Barrel
- Long Lasting – 12 V Lithium-Ion Battery
- Control – Variable Speed Trigger with Maximum Speed Dial
- Auto Reverse for No-Drip Dispensing
- Comfortable rubber over molded handle. Swivel barrel
- Fast 30-minute recharge. Battery Fuel Gauge
- Ladder pull hook
During the winter months many homeowners use firewood as a source of heat or create an attractive atmosphere. But along with the firewood comes many types of living pests. Most firewood pests will not harm people or animals, nor will they start infestations of wood within the home.
However, there are a few pests, like Black Widow spiders, that are of concern. Some types of wood boring beetle infestations occasionally begin by emerging from stored firewood. But most pests are harmless, yet annoying, insects like cockroaches, pillbugs, centipedes, ground beetles, and sowbugs that all like to hide over winter beneath bark, or in the cracks of firewood, becoming active within days after the firewood is brought into a warm home.
The best way to control firewood pests is to properly store and manage the firewood. NEVER SPRAY FIREWOOD WITH PESTICIDES!!! Harmful vapors could result from burning pesticide-treated wood.
Store your firewood at least two feet away from the side of your home, and keep it off of the ground. This keeps firewood dry and allows air to circulate throughout the woodpile.
Burn the oldest wood first; the older the wood the greater the chance that insects may get into it.
When you are ready to bring some firewood inside, knock the logs together to shake any insects that may be clinging to the wood.
That being said, the most important thing you can do is to bring inside only what you will burn that day! Firewood stored by the fireplace, in the garage, or in the basement allows pests to warm up and emerge within your home. And although a neat stack of firewood may look attractive setting next to the fireplace, twenty or so wood roaches running across your carpet may convince you otherwise.
Managing firewood pests is essentially a matter of keeping them outdoors instead of within your home. The shorter the time that firewood is inside, the lower the chance there will be for these pests to emerge and scatter.
By Seth Murphy
Papadiy.com
Owning a home is a big part of the American Dream: a place to call home, where your family grows and thrives. Being a homeowner however, has its fair share of responsibilities and it’s a year round job. As you prepare for winter and ice storms, there are a few must do’s to ensure your family’s peace of mind. Every homeowner is inevitably faced with the possibility of having to hire a professional to do home repairs and maintenance. However, there are plenty of DIY maintenance tips that can keep your house in tip top shape so you can save the most complicated jobs to the professionals.
Pipe Dreams

The last thing you want before your Holiday dinner party is a burst pipe that leaks or floods the basement or another part of your house. When water freezes it expands and increases pressure inside the pipe. This might cause it to burst and leak water inside your home causing major damage. Some simple DIY tips can keep this from happening. Popular Mechanics magazine suggests that before winter weather settles in make sure that you:
- Insulate pipes in unheated rooms
- Open cabinet doors when you’re not home to let heat reach the pipes
- Leave the faucet leak slightly to keep water flow
The Sprinkler System

Neglecting simple winterizing tips on your sprinkler system can lead to costly and labor-intensive repairs to your irrigation system. According to Do It Yourself you want to first be knowledgeable on the kind of system installed and refer to the manual or the instructions. Essentially you want to shut off the water, drain the system, and leave in the half open position for the winter. This is an involved process that might benefit from hiring a professional. A small error in winterizing your sprinkler system can cause extensive damage and require you to replace the whole system.
Sealing Air Leaks

Finding the outside source of the air leak around window and door frames might be difficult. The opening source of the leak may be several inches from the spot where it is felt inside the home. The best way to attack air leaks is from exterior surfaces. You can seal the interior but if a crack or crevice is leaking air it may also leak water as well. Sealing the leak from the outside with Energy Seal prevents water penetration along with air infiltration.
Other Insulation
Insulating your garage is also important and can be relatively simple to do yourself if you have the tools and some experience. Weather stripping your garage is a good place to start. This will prevent drafts and the escape of any heat. You can also insulate the walls with foam board and fiberglass batt insulation.
Consider putting in a heating unit in the garage to keep temperature regulated so you can continue working there through winter. Family Handyman magazine discusses two options of natural gas heaters for your garage: “a forced-air garage heater that blows warm air or a “low intensity” infrared tube heater that radiates heat.
Plant Care

Tending to your garden and plants is a good DIY project for the upcoming winter. Every plant has different needs and is built to withstand different weather conditions. HGTV Magazine writes that the biggest problem is protecting the roots from rapidly fluctuating temperature. You want to bring in outdoor plants indoors, insulate some plants.
The Spruce has a few tips on keeping plants healthy through the winter.
- Most plants need less water in winter and so adjusting your watering schedule is an important part. The most important time to water is during the day, however you can water plants sufficiently before a freeze to prevent desiccation.
- Keep in mind the indoor temperature by keeping the plants away from furnaces, fireplaces, and drafts.
- Go easy on the fertilizer so as not to upset the plant’s natural cycle.
If you live in windy weather conditions, protect flowers from wind damage with fences or shrubs or some other protective barrier. However, be careful not to completely block all sunshine. Before a freeze you can shelter tender sprouts with an inverted bucket or a blanket. As far as your trees go, make sure to prune long branches as a good method to prevent wind damage.
Help maintain the value of your home by keeping in mind important seasonal and year round maintenance. Always assess the complexity of the job and the tools needed in order to decide whether you want to do it yourself or hire a professional. These decisions can end up saving you thousands of dollars in damage later. Your home is where your American Dream becomes a reality, don’t neglect it.
Is Chinking Cosmetic or a Sealant?
Perma-Chink has evolved into an elastomeric compound that has been specifically designed for use in log home sealing applications. Perma-Chink adds to the overall integrity of the structure by not only preventing water and air from entering the home, but also adding greatly to the overall effectiveness of the entire building envelope – keeping heat and air from escaping during the heating and cooling seasons. While it looks fantastic when properly applied, Perma-Chink is most definitely a sealant first and a cosmetic product second.
It should also be mentioned that a properly applied chinking compound will help keep out unwanted insects and other nuisance pests. In the case of a “chinkless” style home, many homeowners often desire to add a chink line for cosmetic purposes to differentiate the home from a smooth-sided home. Or oftentimes on a full log wall system Perma-Chink is used as a contrast in the color of the chosen finish.
Who Can Apply Chinking Properly? A DIYer or a Pro?

Basically anyone can apply Perma-Chink properly if they follow instructions that are available. Some homeowners attend workshops or seminars to learn how, should they choose to apply the product themselves. But in today’s busy environments, some homeowners choose to use the services of trained contractors as the design of their dream home may require the use of specialized equipment, such as lifts or scaffolding, and a trained contractor can usually shorten the time required to accomplish the job. Therefore the homeowner can tend to the other necessities involved to get moved in, and sometimes there are just not enough hours in the day for the homeowner to do this.
How has Chinking Changed Over the Past Decade?
Perma-Chink was the first synthetic chinking produced in 1981. There have been many significant changes made in formulations to improve the adhesion, flexibility, and longevity. Early formulations were lacking in elongation and freeze-thaw stability, which resulted in performance issues and storage and application concerns. Today’s Perma-Chink offers excellent qualities in all areas to meet the needs of the industry. Application can be accomplished in a much wider range of temperature extremes with little or no worries about product performance. There have also been additions to the color palette of the products to keep up with the homeowner’s desire to mix and match shades and hues of today’s finishes.
How is Log Chinking Repaired?
When Perma-Chink is properly installed, there are usually no repairs needed unless it is damaged somehow. The hard part is keeping people from trying to “feel” it before it cures, which results in indentations or fingerprints; and those usually occur right at the front door for some reason. But if repairs are needed, small separations can easily be repaired by applying a small bead of chinking into the damaged area and smoothing out with a small brush and water. Most chinking issues are the result of improper application of trying to make too little go too far. Again, read the directions prior to application and you should not have to make repairs.
Can You Stain Log Chinking or Change its Color in Any Way?
The answer is yes; Perma-Chink can be stained, but it will not take the color as wood does, so the results may be undesirable. Perma-Chink manufactures Chink Paint to change the color of the chinking, if so desired. Chink Paint uses the same raw materials as the chinking, so they are completely compatible with each other.
No matter how much you know about log home chinking, there is always something new to discover.
All About Linseed Oil – And Why It’s No Good For Wood
We occasionally get calls about the exterior of a home that has turned black.
Almost without fail it’s the result of using an oil-based stain that contained linseed oil.
Linseed oil is a yellowish oil derived from the dried seeds of flax plants, and is also known as flax seed oil. Linseed oil is used as a carrier in many brands of oil-based paints and stains. Since linseed oil is organic, many varieties of mold fungi thrive on it. Over time mold can proliferate to point where the coated surface can turn dark brown to black. One way to tell if the darkening is due to mold rather than UV damage is inspecting areas protected from direct sunlight like under eaves and overhangs; it will be the same dark color as the rest of the wall.
When this occurs, washing with Log Wash alone may not be enough to remove all of the discoloration due to mold growth. We recommend to first use Wood ReNew, along with some scrubbing, in order to remove the visible mold. Once the surface is cleaned with Wood ReNew, use Log Wash to help remove any residual linseed oil.

We don’t recommend blasting alone as a method of removing a heavy growth of mold. Linseed oil penetrates into the wood, and although blasting may remove most of the surface discoloration, there may be enough residual linseed oil remaining in the wood to support mold growth under the finish. If the home has been blasted, it will be necessary to give the home a good washing with a two cups of Log Wash per gallon of water solution before applying Prelude.
The best way to prevent this problem is to avoid the use of any product that contains linseed oil. No Perma-Chink Systems finishes contain linseed or other types of organic oils.
For more information, read these technical tips:
Cleaning with Wood ReNew and Log Wash Technical Tip
Why we recommend (and produce) water-based products
What are the benefits of using a top quality finish on a log home?
Whether you’re currently building your dream log home or simply checking off tasks on your annual home-maintenance “to do” list, we’re always looking for ways to skimp on expenses around the house. But when it comes to putting your best foot forward with a beautifully stained home that’s also protected from the exterior elements, you might want to think twice before being lured in by the lower price tag of a middle-of-the-road finishing product.
Think about it: Not only does a stain and finish define the aesthetic appeal of your log home, enhancing the striking beauty of the wood’s grain and natural color, but it serves as a shield for your home’s most precious building blocks – the logs. Because of this, it makes sense to spend the extra money upfront on a high-quality finish for your home. And, as it turns out, if you can swing the higher cost for the first application, you will save yourself oodles of cash over the lifetime of your log home.
What are the qualities to look for in a top quality log home finish?
To ensure a successful and long-lasting result, you’ll also need to consider factors like wood protection, maintenance and, of course, appearance.
Appearance: In addition to building a quality home, you want to build a beautiful home, which is why the finished appearance of your logs is so important. By spending a little bit more upfront, you’ll get a distinguished looking wood finish that will set your home apart from the rest.
A high performance finish gives long-lasting color retention through the use of a balanced formulation of transparent iron oxides and long lasting mildew inhibitors. By applying a clear topcoat, you also have the opportunity to create a gloss or satin finish and greatly extend the life of the stain system.
Longevity: With a high-quality product, comes high performance and longevity. The most important duty of your home’s finish is to shield your logs from the elements, including UV rays and water. While UV inhibitors are included in some high-quality stains, your finish should also repel rain but be permeable to water vapor to allow trapped moisture in your logs to evaporate. For topcoats and base stain, Lifeline™ provides you with options that “breathe,” allowing moisture within the logs to evaporate while reducing checking. Clear topcoats boost protection against UV rays and add water repellency – while making your exterior walls easier to clean. The smooth surface of a high-quality clear coat repels dirt and dust, making cleaning a breeze.
Value: There is no doubt that high-quality finishes will save you time and money in the long run. Lasting longer equates to less labor expense over the life of the finish. A high performance stain will typically last 5 to 8 years while low quality stain will expose your home to the elements in two years or less. High-quality finishes make the job go faster, cover larger square footage and require less maintenance over the years.
Environment: A high-quality stain should be formulated to meet and exceed emission standards established by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) as well as all state and local restrictions. Finishes should also be free of formaldehyde which is a known carcinogen.
Over the past few years almost all new innovations in coating technology have been in low VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) water-based systems. This new technology has allowed the development of high quality products like Lifeline™ Ultra stains and Advance™ topcoats that not only look great but meet the most stringent environmental requirements in every state.
How do top quality finishes differ from the average finish, like one you could pick up at the local hardware store?
All stains differ in their lifespan, coverage rate and quality of appearance and protection. One of the most important aesthetic considerations for log home owners is stain color and tone. It seems like most stains look great right after they are applied but will that beauty stand the test of time? By choosing a high-performance finish like Lifeline™ Ultra-7, you are ensuring that the finish will look as beautiful years after application as it did the second day it was applied thanks to a balanced formula of transparent iron oxides, mildew inhibitors and an advanced polymer resin.
Here’s how it works: The transparent iron oxides protect your logs without resulting in a “painted” look that hides the natural texture and beauty of the wood grain. Plus, these pigments provide superior UV protection, blocking the fading and bleaching effects of the sun for a much longer period of time. In addition, the mildew-fighting components will help prevent any mildew or mold from growing in the finish itself, which will greatly reduce further discolorations on your logs.
Next is the durability. The secret behind durability of Lifeline™ Ultra-7 is state-of-the-art resin that creates a flexible and tough seal on your home’s logs. Perhaps more importantly than the seal’s strength, the resin also ensures that the seal is continuous, providing protection from holes and gaps that might otherwise develop with a lower-quality finish. In addition it has unsurpassed adhesion to wood. It’s this continuity that has proven to be much more resistant to UV degradation, color fading and adhesion loss.
The total cost for finishing your log home includes labor, tools and the materials involved in preparation of the wood surface, application of the finish and maintenance of that finish. When you consider the cost, it’s important to include the total, long-term cost of the stain that you choose.
For an average-size log home, labor costs for finishing would typically be about $4,500. In addition, about 20 gallons of stain would be needed to apply two coats to the home. For an ordinary stain, let’s say the cost per gallon is $30, totaling $600 for the entire job. Add in $4,500 for labor, and the total cost of the job is $5,100.
Field tests show that the job will last two years, the cost per year of service would be $2,550.
Now let’s take a look at the cost for a top-quality, 100-percent acrylic stain. At a cost of somewhere around $90 per gallon, the cost for 20 gallons would be $1,800. Again, the labor would be $4,500, so the total would be $6,300 – a significant increase from the lower-priced product. But, since the stain job will last at least five years, the cost per year of service would only come out to $1,260 – less than half the yearly cost of the “budget” stain job!
It’s no surprise that high-quality products from Perma-Chink Systems’ extensive collection of exterior finishes and stains will result in spending less time and money protecting and maintaining your log home over the years!
Is a quality finish maintenance-free? Lower maintenance? What type of maintenance is needed?
High-quality finishes require less maintenance over the years. Lifeline stains from Perma-Chink Systems are easy to apply and quick drying, so you can continue application without extended delays for drying. With our clear-coats you have the flexibility to perform maintenance with a minimum of labor and material costs. You can apply either color coats or clear coats over any surfaces requiring maintenance.
What are some of the things that can happen to a log home exterior if a low-quality finish is used?
Frequent maintenance maybe necessary due to water repellency, color fading, UV degradation, mold and mildew problems, holes and gaps might develop, etc.
Why does top quality typically mean higher cost? Is it the ingredients? Research?
Quality stains formulated with top-notch ingredients using the most advanced technology. Quality stains not necessary will cost more if you consider coverage, number of coats, years of service, labor cost.
Perma-Chink Systems Family of Finishes

My name is Mike Samuels. I am a Log Home owner and recently started working for Perma-Chink Systems. So let me tell you how my story begins. We are going back to my childhood. My parents vacationed in Smoky Mountains once or twice a year. As a child I was very impressible and excited any time I was able to go on vacation. The trip always included a drive through the mountains, sightseeing around Cades Cove and driving up the most treacherous Ski Mountain Road.
On every visit to the Smoky Mountains, I remember making comments to my mother that one day when I grow up, I would have a log home or mountain chalet here. I made a lot of wishes to my mother growing up just as any kid does. I am sure that my mother listened to my comments in one ear and out the other. She was always very encouraging. I also remember that I told her I would be an US Air Force fighter pilot. Not everything comes true, but there is nothing wrong with dreaming.
I worked for one company for 38 years, mostly living in Houston, TX but my wife, Kathy, children and I lived in Tennessee for a total of 10 of the 38 years. Unfortunately the Tennessee years were located in the middle and west Tennessee, never East Tennessee. However, many of our family vacations were still in Smokies. My children were overwhelmed with the breathtaking views of the mountains as much as I was as a child.
Fast forward 40 years. Where did the time go? It was finally time to think about retirement and where my wife and I would spend the remainder of our lives. The decision was not as easy as one would think. The first place many people want to retire is the beach. That was our first idea, but Kathy and I looked at each other and simultaneously we said, How about Smokies, and How about a Log Home?
Kathy immediately logged on to the Internet and starting looking at land for sale. I can tell you that once my wife has a mission, she reacts quickly and thoroughly. Within minutes she found several pieces of property for sell. Of course, this would mean another vacation to Smoky Mountains to look and buy land. She planned out a trip, contacted a Real Estate company and put everything in motion.
We picked out approximately 10 properties to look at. Our real estate agent met us at the hotel around 8am on a Saturday. An early start was essential in order to look at all of the properties in a couple of days. It was rainy and cold. I believe the trip was in March, the best I can remember. We made it to all of the properties on Saturday… a very long Saturday. Kathy and I were a little car sick from the winding mountains roads and disappointed, because none of the properties made any significant impact on us.
Early on Sunday morning the rain had stopped so my wife and I decided to go out and search on our own for the perfect piece of land. What a difference does good weather makes. Kathy and I parked the car and started walking. We made it about half way up the property and were able to see nothing but trees and hillsides all around. We envisioned how a house would sit on the hillside. We walked up to the top of the hillside and there was this great view of mountain tops. At that time, we knew this was the right property to build our log dream home and spend the rest of our lives here. We made an offer, countered and purchased the same day on a Sunday.
As I mentioned earlier, Kathy is not one to sit back and wait for things to happen. She now has the land. It was time to start planning next steps. We both were still several years away from retirement but that did not stop us. She continued to plan. She contacted what seemed to be 100 manufactures, builders, and purchased tons of Log Home magazines and publications. Being a good husband, I sat back and allowed her to make floor plan decisions and building styles. I knew that my goal in life was to keep her happy. The design of the house was not my main concern. I like spending time outdoors, so as long as I had a place to eat and sleep I would be happy. We lived in five different homes but never one that would take on this feat. Most of our home purchases were buying new and vacant so we could move right in.
Meanwhile, while Kathy was doing all of the Log Home research, we decided to get started on all the work it takes before you start to build. After Kathy compiled all of the Log home information, we could see our vision beginning to be a reality. First, we decided to have the land re-surveyed. A small price to pay for the comfort you got what you paid for. We were still six to eight years away from retirement and building. Our goal was to build and have the home complete about one year before our retirement. We wanted to work to age 58 before retiring and moving to the mountains.
Kathy and I vacationed about every six to eight weeks. All vacations now were, not to beaches or cruises, but to our piece of land heaven in the Smoky Mountains. After our first visit in the fall, our land was so overgrown we could not even walk on it. Vacationing to our future home was the worst thing we did, because at that time we decided to begin doing some excavation work. Living far away from your land is really a detriment. The key is finding good contractors, which is very difficult even without the distance between Houston, TX and Smoky Mountain Tennessee. In the case of identifying good contractors, “The more the Better”.
Our surveyor gave us a name of a contractor who could excavate. We call the excavator out along with about three other contractors to discuss options. We did end up with the contractor our surveyor recommended. Instead of only clearing land, we installed the septic tank, laid out the driveway, cleared about one acre of land and set the home site. Keep in mind that Kathy was still working on log home designs and floor plans, not to mention taking me many miles around the region to see and talk to log home manufacturers and look at model homes.

Our next vacation visit to the land was to see the outcome of the excavator’s work. The land looked fantastic. No longer did we need to walk up the hill and fight our ways through the heavy brush. We drove our car up the driveway and parked where one day the house would be. These vacations to the land made us want to build and move sooner than we planned. And we did.
After meeting and talking with several contractors we decided to go with someone who had extensive Log Home experience and managed a Log Home Resort complex. He was going to be our eyes on the ground. My wife actually took the role of general contractor. She did an amazing job. She ordered the Log home package, had it delivered and the log home manufacture completed the dry-in. A lot of work had to take place prior to the package being delivered. We decided to build the home into the hillside and build a basement garage under the home. Our excavator and surveyor had more work to do. Get the retaining walls, garage and basement ready prior to the delivery of the log home package. Our surveyor read the plans to install supports for the balcony and decks.



I wanted to get the home stained as soon as the dry-in was completed. Applicators in the area had many recommendations on which log home stain to use. Again, my wife and I did research on wood stains. After reading propaganda from websites we decided on Perma-Chink Systems products. Our decision was based primarily on a water-based product, especially when we saw the warranty available for Lifeline Ultra stains. Perma-Chink Systems was the only company that guaranteed their stain with a 5-year warranty if properly applied. Fortunately my eye on the ground in Smokies was also a Perma-Chink Systems distributor. I let my wife pick out the color. After 30+ years of marriage, I finally learned my lesson, “Keep a Wife Happy”.
Perma-Chink Systems delivers an excellent product, good warranty and ease of cleanup. All attributes of a good log home stain. Since Perma-Chink Systems has a family of products we felt that their overall systems were a good match for protection and longevity. We chose Dark Natural color in the Lifeline Ultra-2 line. We started with the Shell-Guard borate treatment, Log Wash wood cleaner, Lifeline stain and Advance gloss top coat. The house looked great.
One month after I turned 55 years old, we retired and now living in our new Log Home. Looking back on all of the hard work, frustrations, time spent, and even the occasional husband and wife arguments, we finally made it. It has been great living in a Log Home. What makes it better, is that my daughter purchased a log home about 10 miles from us on the lake. It is nice having family with you during your golden years. By the way, I stripped and stained her home using Perma-Chink Systems products as well.
I have learned so much about log home maintenance and care for a Log Home. So much, that when I visited our local PCS store to get Log Wash, I also got a job. I am one of the newest employees here and I am still learning how to maintain our home.
My biggest lesson for anyone wanting to build a log home is planning, from start to finish. Attend as many log home seminars that you can. Perma-Chink offers excellent seminars for the do-it-yourself home owners. Take advantage of the Perma-Chink Systems experts and utilize their personnel to get valuable advice. Call or visit any of the locations to get personalized service. Call me at the Perma-Chink Systems in Sevierville, TN. I will be happy to share my experiences and will guide you for a long and happy life in your Log Home.

After graduating from college, the normal progression for most women is marriage. But, what is great, or even fun, about being normal? This neo-Laura Ingalls-Wilder, this Backwoods Barbie, embarked upon an adventure. I decided to build a log cabin!
I have had the pleasure of being around log cabins nearly my whole life. I grew up in my parents’ pine, D-shaped log cabin. They had a “turn-key” package; but we, mainly my father, ended up doing a lot of the work. Despite three children, pets, and fluctuating Alabama weather, their home has weathered nicely with little maintenance. Therefore, my parents are supportive of my log cabin, although they enjoy ribbing me about some comments I made when I was about ten years old.
I was ticked at my mother because she did not think that a black and silver waterbed (completed, of course) with a zebra bedspread was suitable décor for a ten year-old girl’s log bedroom. Thus, I declared that I would never have a house of wood. I vowed to have only wallpaper and paint in my house one day. (Never say never!)
Anyway, my adventure started when I found an ad for oak log cabin kits in a classified newspaper. Not wanting to be saddled with a large debt and realizing that I would be responsible for cleaning and maintaining the house, I decided to purchase the approximately 1,500 square-foot kit. The logs arrived safely and beautifully – Missouri oak heartwood dovetail logs.(Say that ten times fast!)

Since my kit consisted of only the perimeter wall logs, I drew the interior plans one Sunday afternoon; and Mom and I devised a plan that would allow me to “pay-as-I-go” and have the cabin completed and paid-off in three years. However, I did not realize how much I was going to be involved with the “hands-on” construction, and I never imagined how much I would learn to do and end up doing myself.

I hired an experienced carpenter to oversee my project (I later hired some helpers for a few days). My brother Tubby and the carpenter laid the block, and I started helping with the setting of the logs. Tubby would sing “John Henry” as he swung the sledge hammer! Our carpenter joked, saying he felt like he was building a pyramid. Dad, Mom, and I cut cedars for the porch posts (Mom and I caught poison oak to prove it) and hemlocks for the supporting interior posts. I wanted some octagon windows, but I could not justify the special order price. However, I found new ones (although the wrong color but paint corrected that) at a flea market for 1/10th the special order store price. Mom and I shopped ‘round and ‘round for the additional lumber at the best prices.

Before Mom and I started preserving the logs and additional lumber, Mom and I attended a Perma-Chink Systems workshop in Rome, Georgia. We learned countless tips and acquired useful information that has saved me both valuable time and money. (My father was very impressed when I informed him of what pressure-washing tip, at what pressure, and at what angle I had to wash the logs.) Mom and I painstakingly followed all the Perma-Chink products’ directions. The Energy Seal far surpassed any other similar product in both ease of application and appearance during the sealing of the dovetail corners and joints. This very time-consuming task made me feel like the “Human Dirt Dauber,” and I lost track of how many hours I spent on this job. However, my leaks during pressure-washing were mostly confined to around the windows and doors that had not been trimmed at that time. The Log Wash, Wood ReNew, Armor-Guard, Log End Seal, Lifeline Ultra-2 exterior stain, Lifeline Advance clear topcoat and Cobra Rods were quickly and very easily applied or utilized.

Painting the 2X4’s with Chink-Paint was another time-consuming task. I completed this step fully by myself. If stacking the logs felt like building a pyramid, this step could be compared to engraving the hieroglyphics onto the stone pyramid walls. (One thing I quickly learned during chink painting is that it is much better to paint slowly and clean-up less than to paint quickly and clean-up more!) Mom and I were both surprised and impressed with the Lifeline Advance Exterior Gloss topcoat. When we cleaned out the containers from which we were applying, the dried Lifeline Advance peeled out like plastic wrap. I feel as if my cabin is securely plastic-wrapped from the elements.

The interior Perma-Chink Systems products worked as well as and look as great as the exterior products. Prelude beautifully prepared the interior logs for the Lifeline Interior stain. The Lifeline Interior stain and the Sure Shine Gloss look fantastic on the many different types of interior wood – oak, pine, spruce, hemlock, and hickory. The Chink Paint also looks nice on the interior walls.

With the assistance of good helpers and the employment of recycling, creativity, gifts from generous friends, and affordable Perma-Chink Systems products, the exterior of my cabin is already completed and much of the interior is completed in only six months. My cabin is debt-free and is more beautiful than I ever dreamed that it would be. Before preserving the logs, I was concerned that by doing anything to the logs, I was going to destroy their natural beauty. (Boy, was I mistaken!) The Perma-Chink products are not only protecting, but also enhancing my logs’ natural beauty. Before using some of the products, I doubted the necessity of using them. (Boy, was I mistaken again.) Each easily applied Perma-Chink Systems product is necessary for a beautiful, protective complete finish.
My adventure has changed me both mentally and physically. I am stronger, wiser, more grateful, and more selfsufficient. It has given me a strong sense of accomplishment. When someone asks me about my home, I am able to show them my hands and say that I’ve built my cabin with these two hands (despite the nail polish) and with the help of some good folks and great Perma-Chink Systems products.
“The Wise Woman Builds Her House” PROVERBS 14:1
By Mala Patterson,
Bluegrass Musician