Blog & News
Built By Alpine Log Homes – Protected By Perma-Chink Systems
Protecting a Treasure for Over Two Decades
Those of us that have been in the industry for 20 or more years will remember. Alpine Log Homes was one of the industry leaders in the design and building of handcrafted log homes. For example, this beautiful home in the mountains of Glenwood Springs, Colorado was built by Alpine Log Homes 22 years ago. I know you would prefer to see a photo with spring flowers and green leaves by now, but it is a reality of the Colorado mountains – they have snow in April! Yes, the photo above was taken in early April of 2023. Indeed, the winters in the Colorado mountains can be long and present extreme conditions for any home. But it is not just the winter months that pose challenges to log homes. This log home experiences on average 12+ feet of snow a year but it also sees on average 320 days of sunshine a year, which presents extreme UV conditions being located at an altitude of 8,100 feet.
Will the Products Last Against Colorado’s Extreme Weather?
Trusting in the products to protect the home from such extreme conditions, in 2003 the exterior of this home was stained with Lifeline Ultra-2 Bronze and Advance Gloss topcoat. Two coats Ultra-2, one coat Advance to start with, and with little maintenance done since this home was built, looks as great as it did the year it was first stained. What a great testimony to Lifeline stains and finishes. This beautiful finish has weathered the environment for over 20 years!
Perma-Chink Systems Products Used: Lifeline Ultra-2, Advance Gloss, Perma-Chink, EnergySeal, Log End Seal, Lifeline Interior, and Lifeline Acrylic.
Logs were washed with Perma-Chink Systems’ Oxcon (Log Wash was not invented back then) before stain was applied. A borate treatment similar to Bora-Care was applied to all first-floor framing and two feet up from the foundation to prevent any wood destroying insects from attacking the house. The house is at approximately 8000 feet elevation and the area gets in excess of 320 days of sunshine per year. In addition, it is not unusual to have up to five feet of snow on the ground in the winter. To protect the logs from this extreme exposure the house exterior is coated with two coats of Lifeline Ultra-2 Bronze, followed by a clear protection coat of Lifeline Advance. The transparent pigments in the Lifeline Ultra-2 stain provide crucial ultraviolet protection for the logs. Two coats of the stain further protect the wood and develop the perfect shade of color. A coat of clear Lifeline Advance protects the tint finish and gives that ‘furniture grade’ ever-so-slight sheen to the logs.
Any upward facing checks were filled with a matching tone of EnergySeal (Check Mate 2 is now the recommended product). Upward facing checks can trap water and funnel it into the house. Any check that twists for the length of log can provide a channel for outside air, water, and insect to enter the house. All exterior log ends were coated with Log End Seal to prevent water from being drawn into the logs, as untreated log ends are natural straws.
Log Home Interior Using Lifeline Interior
The interior of this Colorado log home is intentionally a darker shade of tint than most log houses. This was done to promote the old-time feeling of the frontier and add warmth to the larger spaces. Two coats of Lifeline Interior 130 (Dark Natural) were applied and then a coat of Acrylic Satin was applied to the interior for a durable, furniture-grade finish.
The chinking between the logs is Perma-Chink Medium Grey 224. The darker shade of grey provides a warm contrast to the dark natural shade of the logs.
The Dark Natural color develops the warmth and inviting feeling while the Satin topcoat’s unobtrusive film coat makes it easier to dust and clean logs, and aids diffusing the reflected light.
The ceiling in the dining room and the media room are a European stucco product from Stuc-O-Flex International. Both are custom tinted – the kitchen is a hand-troweled light brown tone that reflects light and warms up the large kitchen/dining space.
The ceiling in the media room is an “old leather” maroon look to provide a stately feel to the high ceiling room and highlight the logs.
Over 20 Years of Protection from PCS’ Wood Care Products
This beautiful finish has weathered the environment for over 20 years! With minimal maintenance, the home’s finish and sealant has endured harsh climate conditions without issue. A true testament of quality and performance of PCS products that our customers require to protect and preserve log and timber homes. Our customers have poured their hearts, time, and effort into building their homes – it’s only right they trust products that are just as enduring, so their legacy can stand strong for generations.
If you want to see more photos of the exterior click the following link: https://www.permachink.com/photo-category/photo-gallery/
Stretching Your Dollar With Lifeline Ultra-2
For 44 years Perma-Chink Systems has cared for log and timber homes through exceptional products designed to outlast and out-perform anything on the market. Getting the most for your money is something we can all identify with, and we endeavor to create significant value for our customers.
One key feature that makes our stains and finishes a better value than other options on the market is the coverage rate. An average-quality wood stain available at any big-box home improvement store offers a coverage rate of 150 square feet (sqft) per gallon. Even a finish specifically made for log homes only averages 150-250 sqft per gallon for a first coat, and 300-400 sqft per gallon for second or maintenance coats.
But one stain brand rises above the rest – expertly formulated to complement the unique character and demands of large logs and heavy timbers.
It’s LIFELINE.
Maximum Coverage Rate Means Lower Total Cost
Our Lifeline Ultra-2 stain comes in with a whopping 350-450 sqft per gallon first coat and 600-800 sqft per gallon second coat. That’s double the coverage rate of other products on the market. Additionally, our other Lifeline family of Ultra-7, Exterior, and Accents finishes have similar coverage rates, making any of our exterior finishes an excellent value.
| Finish Brand | First Coat Coverage Rate Per Gallon | Second Coat Coverage Rate Per Gallon | Price per Gallon (as of 8/2025) | Total Price per Square Foot |
| Lifeline Ultra-2 | 350-450 sqft | 600-800 sqft | $115.99 | $0.46 |
| ProLuxe-Sikkens | 150 – 225 sqft | 300-400 sqft | $98.95 | $0.84 |
| Sashco Capture | 150-250 sqft | 250-350 sqft | $90.99 | $0.80 |
“High” Sticker Price Isn’t the Whole Story
Lifeline brand is not the lowest-priced option on the market by design. The science behind Ultra-2 engineered it to be better than available products, made with the highest-quality components, creating exceptional value when you look at the total cost. We’ve analyzed the cost difference between low-quality finishes and high-quality finishes in our Money Matters article, where labor expenses are a significant factor that gets overlooked when comparing project pricing.
For DIY projects, the material cost of Ultra-2 might be more expensive than the lower-cost choices, but the extra gallons needed to equal the coverage rate and years of durability of Ultra-2 negate any savings. Throw in the 5-year Limited Warranty Lifeline Ultra-2 has when properly maintained, the total cost can not be beat by competitors. Lifeline finishes cover double the square footage and can last more than twice as long. Lesser quality finishes degrade faster and do not offer the superior protection Lifeline finishes offer. The inexpensive finish will easily end up costing twice as much for the same coverage, and twice more again when it comes to refinishing the home in two or three years.
Here’s a comparison of the estimated total cost to stain 1,000 sq. ft. log home using the two stain options:
| Lifeline Ultra-2 at $115.99 per gallon | Proluxe Cetol Log & Siding Stain at $98.95 per gallon |
| • First Coat Coverage: 350–450 sq. ft. • Second Coat Coverage: 600–800 sq. ft. Coverage Efficiency Estimated Total Cost Low Coverage $524.72 High Coverage $402.74 | • First Coat Coverage: 150–225 sq. ft. • Second Coat Coverage: 300–400 sq. ft. Coverage Efficiency Estimated Total Cost Low Coverage $989.50 High Coverage $687.15 |
✅ Summary
• Ultra-2 is significantly more cost-effective for both low and high coverage scenarios.
• Proluxe may be suitable for specific finishes or wood types, but it’s nearly double the cost at low coverage.
Get More with Ultra-2 – Performance That Pays for Itself!
At the end of the day, Lifeline Ultra-2 offers better coverage and longer durability than any product at a local big-box retailer. With less frequency between coats over the long, long life of your log or timber home, and impressive coverage rates, the value of Ultra-2 is simply unmatched.
Don’t wait – order your free samples today! – U-2 free samples Custom colors are available in any shade, or we can match your desired color. Call 1-800-548-3554 to get started.
Step 2 – Schedule Interviews
Perma-Chink Systems maintains current contact information, insurance and license information for all contractors on the referral list. Obviously, you’ll want to interview the contractors to determine their reliability, reputation, and experience, as well as their procedures that best meet your individual needs.
So here are the top 4 Key Questions you should ask each contractor candidate:
1. Does the contractor carry insurance?
A contractor should carry comprehensive liability insurance and workers’ compensation insurance to protect you in the event of a job accident. Ask for proof of general liability and workers’ compensation coverage for the type of project.
2. Is the contractor licensed?
Ask if the contractor is licensed by your state and/or city. Not all states or cities require contractors to be licensed.
3. Will the contractor provide references from previous jobs?
Most experienced log home contractors will have a portfolio of past jobs, along with photos and customers testimonial letters.
4. What is the contractor’s workmanship warranty?
Some contractors typically warrant their workmanship for one year or more. Longer warranties are not necessarily more valuable than shorter warranties. The length of the warranty is less important than the intent and ability of the contractor to stand behind his warranty. That is best evaluated using customer references.
Choosing a Contractor
There are several more important things to consider as you narrow down your contractor selection. All job bids (if well written) should contain enough detail provisions and terms to clearly state both parties’ expectations. Your contractor’s knowledge of local building laws, their schedule to do the work and, of course, the total price they bid for your project, is all part of the equation. When it comes to caring for your log home, it’s reassuring to know that you can choose a contractor on whom you can rely on for good advice as well trust that they’re dedicated to providing you with the best results possible.
Again, Perma-Chink Systems is happy to offer you all our resources to make this process a successful experience. We will contact you within 7-10 days to follow-up on the contractor’s response and also log information and future follow-up if the job was awarded to one of our preferred log home contractors. Give us a call at 1-800-548-3554 or e-mail info@permachink.com to get a referral to contractors in your area.
Choosing a Log Home Contractor: Getting It Done Right
Are you the hands-on type—someone who enjoys weekend trips to the hardware store and tackling projects yourself? At Perma-Chink Systems, we proudly support DIY enthusiasts by offering user-friendly products, expert how-to articles, and robust customer support. But while we make the DIY route possible, it’s not always preferable—or realistic.
Sometimes, life simply demands a professional. Whether it’s due to time constraints, physical limitations, lack of confidence, or simply not wanting to shoulder the task yourself, hiring a contractor becomes the smart move. And not just any contractor—a log home specialist.
Why a Log Home Contractor?
Think about it this way: would you hand over your car keys to a golf-cart mechanic? Both may know engines, but the experience gap matters. Similarly, log and timber homes require a specialized touch. Log home contractors understand the unique materials, techniques, and challenges these structures present. Their expertise means better results and fewer mistakes—and their existing relationships with product manufacturers often work in your favor.
Perma-Chink Systems offers a nationwide referral network of experienced log home contractors homeowners can access online on our website, our Find A Contractor tool. While these professionals aren’t directly affiliated with us, most are self-employed specialists trained to use our products with precision and care. Many of these relationships span years, and we continuously review our referral list to maintain the highest standards.
Two Key Steps & Four Critical Questions
Step 1 – Get Informed
Before speaking with any contractor, empower yourself. Knowledge gives you confidence and ensures better conversations. Dive into our literature, explore detailed application guides, attend one of our free homeowner workshops, or schedule a private webinar with our team of log home experts. Our specialists are ready to walk you through the process, explain the products, and help you understand what to expect. An educated homeowner is a contractor’s best client.
Step 2 – Conduct Smart Interviews
We keep up-to-date records of licensing and insurance for all contractors on our referral list, but it’s essential to vet them yourself too. Ask the right questions to ensure the contractor’s reliability, reputation, and fit for your project.
Here are four questions that should top your list:
- Do you carry insurance?
Look for comprehensive liability and workers’ compensation coverage. Always request proof before work begins. - Are you licensed?
Licensing requirements vary by state and city—make sure your contractor is properly credentialed according to local laws. - Can you provide references?
Seasoned contractors will happily share photos, testimonials, and previous work portfolios. - What warranty do you offer?
While warranty durations vary, what truly matters is the contractor’s integrity and track record of honoring their work—something former clients can confirm.
Making the Right Choice
When reviewing estimates, pay close attention to the details. A well-written bid should spell out clear expectations on both sides. Consider your contractor’s availability, knowledge of local codes, and, of course, overall cost.
Ultimately, you want someone you can rely on—not just to complete the job, but to do it with care and craftsmanship. With the right contractor, maintaining your log home becomes not just easier, but a whole lot more satisfying.
Let Perma-Chink Systems be your guide. We’re here to support you every step of the way, from initial exploration to follow-up after your project is complete. Within 7–10 days of your request, we’ll reach out to record your contractor’s response and keep tabs on next steps.
To get connected with qualified professionals in your area, call us at 1-800-548-3554 or email info@permachink.com. Let’s bring your log home project to life—with the right expert by your side.
The key indicators that your logs need a little R & R (repair and refinish)
It’s difficult to ignore a log home; they possess a personality that always turns heads. Such natural good looks are part of their allure, but the attention they command extends to more than admiration. Log homes need regular maintenance to protect their beauty, performance and longevity. Fortunately, a few simple indicators will tell you exactly what your home needs (and when!). Here’s how to assess your logs’ status:
Annual Inspection of Log and Timbers
An annual inspection and exterior wash are an easy way to stay on top of your home’s maintenance needs. Sometimes a stain may look faded when, in fact, its appearance is just dulled by layers of dust, dirt and pollen. A simple wash will brighten everything up and return your home to its sparkling beauty. Ideally, this annual cleaning and inspection is done in late spring, after pollen season. A product like Log Wash from Perma-Chink Systems, Inc., which is environmentally friendly and is formulated with low pH, cleans the wood and preps it for a new coat of stain or topcoat if one is needed.
Perform a Water Test for Finish Integrity
Washing your home is also the perfect opportunity to do a water test, which tells you if you need to reapply a topcoat or the stain. When you wash your home, if you see water sheeting over the logs and being repelled, it’s a sign that the finish is working. If you’re unsure, perform a spot test by using a spray bottle filled with plain water to spritz a small section of the dry log with water. If the water soaks in, it’s an indicator that you need to re-apply the finish. If it beads up, your finish is working and you’re in good shape.
Is Your Log Color Beginning to Fade?
Stains add color and dimension to logs, enhancing a home’s aesthetic. However, they play another critical role. A log home’s stain, whether oil or film-forming, is responsible for protecting the wood. So, when the appearance begins to fade, that means the protection is, too. Keep an eye out for areas where your wall color is beginning to fade, indicating it’s time for reapplication of stain.
How to Perform a Tape Test
What if you purchased an older log home and don’t know what was applied prior to your arrival? Conduct a tape test! Simply take a short strip of high-adhesive masking tape and place it on the exterior wall, making sure the tape has good adhesion, then pull it off. If you see 50% or more pigment or stain color on the tape, that’s an indicator that not only do you need to re-stain the exterior, but you need to strip it down to bare wood. If you apply a new stain on top of a product that is peeling or flaking off, the new product isn’t going to stick.
Re-Application Made Easy
Once you’ve assessed your home and decided it’s time to reapply, Perma-Chink’s products not only prevent fading but also make application easier in the future. Unlike most film finishes, Perma-Chink’s system is a two-step process that involves a stain, such as LIFELINE™ Exterior, Ultra-2, or Ultra-7, Accents, then a topcoat finish of LIFELINE Advance. The extra step of adding a topcoat finish may seem like more work at first, but it saves you maintenance headaches down the road. That’s because with the LIFELINE brand, the stain protects the wood and the topcoat protects the stain, therefore extending the life of the stain.
Because the topcoat protects the stain, it may be years before you find that the stain needs to be re-applied. With conventional film-forming products or an oil-based stain, the stain will likely need to be re-applied every 2-3 years depending on the sun exposure.
Alternatively, if your log home has been repeatedly treated with an oil-based stain, it might be a good candidate for Log & Timber Defense. This product is a stain and sealant in one. It’s not film-forming and performs more like an oil by penetrating the wood, yet a water-borne finish that cleans up with soap and water.
Looks and Longevity
Knowing how to take care of your log home and choosing products that make maintenance easy will help ensure the beauty and durability of your log home for years to come. With Perma-Chink Systems, you get peace of mind, gorgeous looks, and a minimal maintenance routine that will give your home the longevity you desire. Order your stains today at Store.PermaChink.com or call us at 1-800-548-3554.
What Do I Use on the Interior of My Logs and Timbers?
The inside is where you do most of your living. As such, it’s important to take time to select the right interior stains and finishes for your log and timber home. In this way, you will achieve an interior that is visually pleasing and performs well for years.
Two Issues
When it comes to interior finishes, there are two phenomena that homeowners tend to overlook:
1. Surprising amount of surface area. Interior walls and ceilings dramatically increase the amount of surface area that requires treatment – there is about twice as much stainable interior surface versus the exterior. You’ll be looking at your stain choice years to come throughout your entire home. Choose wisely the color and stain product, which we recommend Lifeline Interior.
2. Choices, choices, and more choices. During a new build, homeowners are faced with hundreds of decision points along the way. It’s common for homeowners to ask the general contractor (GC) for advice, which is typically the “safe,” neutral off-white color. A GC wants to stay on schedule, but selecting your interior stain takes a little time. You can’t undo stain without a lot of added expense and time removing the old finish and applying the new finish.
What’s Your Color?
To make the best choice for your log home’s interior stain, think about how you spend time inside your home and the feeling you want to create. Does the space have abundant, natural light? Do you prefer cozy, dark walls and a lighter ceiling or a bright, fresh feeling with lighter walls? Another consideration is that wood absorbs light, so a darker stain may translate into a much darker room than you anticipated.
Then there is the tint base. Do you prefer browns, reds, grays, or a bleached look? Like many things, wood stain decisions can follow design trends, or stay within classic choices. Explore your options and be sure to choose a tint that will look beautiful to you over time. You can always darken a lighter stain, but not the reverse.
To order FREE color samples visit our store.
Distinct Needs
Not all interior wood is the same. Logs and heavy timbers are not like the wood of cabinets, moldings, and furniture. These smaller wood products are usually sprayed with nitrocellulose lacquer for protection, giving them a hard, shiny finish. Larger timbers and logs are more dynamic than cabinets, tables, and trim. If you try and put a similar lacquer on your interior log walls, the finish will crack and peel as these larger pieces of wood naturally contract and expand.
Some homeowners wonder if they can go “au natural” with their interior wood, avoiding the protection an interior finish provides. While interior logs may not be subjected to the same elements as their external counterparts, they will absorb cooking oils and odors, collect dust, handprints, and water stains if not protected. There’s another reason to finish them: Have you ever run your hand across rough-cut wood? It feels mildly like sandpaper. All those little crags and jags on the surface need to be covered in a light film; one that’s strong enough to be wiped down and protect the wood while remaining flexible enough to not crack as the log expands, shifts, and contracts over time.
Choose a stain that’s designed for its job. Exterior stains contain higher levels of biocides and preservatives that you don’t need or want inside your home, especially where you’re eating and sleeping. This is also why you want to avoid an oil-based stain. Oil-based products have high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are extremely unhealthy in enclosed spaces.
Smart & Attractive
Start with a stain that gives you the aesthetic and exact level of transparency you desire. Here at Perma-Chink Systems, we recommend using our Lifeline Interior stain, which comes in a wide array of tones, including clear. After staining, add one or two clear coats of Lifeline Acrylic, PCS Clear Shield, or Sure Shine, a water-based poly finish. Both add just enough film to protect your logs and minimize scratchiness so they can be easily wiped and cleaned. Lifeline Acrylic and Sure Shine come in gloss or satin sheens, with PCS Clear Shield offering gloss and matte sheens.
These stains also contain the right amount of UV protection to avoid “picture framing” with the addition of UV Boost. Picture framing is the shadowy discoloration that remains on the wall when you move a bookshelf or a picture. Your stains should not dictate how you can decorate your home if you have to cover outlines of wall hangings. Perma-Chink interior stains and finishes will ensure that the inside of your log home is just as breathtaking and gorgeous as the outside.
To order color samples, visit our store here.
One or Two Coat Log Stains? Warranty and Color Choices to Consider for Your Log Home Stain.
It does happen occasionally. A customer will call and asks, “Which wood stain should I choose?” We’re glad you called because we’re here to help.
The first question we need answered is the stain for outside or inside? Perma-Chink Systems offers both exterior and interior stains. We’ll cover exterior finishes here, as the original question is predominately referring to exterior finishes. If you’re looking for guidance on choosing interior finishes, read our article on interior finishes here.
Are you looking for a film-forming finish or something more like an oil-based stain? If you’re looking for film-forming finishes, our Lifeline family has multiple options that have you covered. Our newest addition Log & Timber Defense is like penetrating oil-based finishes, but forms a lattice-like coating to protect the logs and offers excellent protection.
The next question is do you want a log stain that is one-coat or two-coat application? For one coat applications, Lifeline Ultra-7 is your best option. Available in nine colors, Ultra-7 is the premier finish for log and timber homes. Lifeline Ultra-2, Lifeline Exterior, and Lifeline Accents all benefit from a two-coat application. Additionally, Lifeline Advance topcoat will ensure your stain lasts the test of time.
Color Choices
The third question we need answered is what color do you want? With over 70 color options among our Lifeline family, it’s likely you’ll find a color you’ll love on your home. If not, we can produce custom colors to enhance the beauty of your logs or timbers.
Ultra-2 log home stain offers the most color options of all our finishes, and along with Ultra-7, has the added benefit of UV Boost (additive to fight harmful UV damage) added to the finish. It’s a long-lasting finish that provides low maintenance for your log home, superior color retention, and exceptional coverage rates. Ultra-7 and Ultra-2 are one of the few log home stains that offer a 5-year limited warranty, when paired with Lifeline Advance Topcoat and scheduled maintenance.
Lifeline Accents and Exterior finishes offer a tremendous value, without sacrificing coverage rates, durability, or color loss compared to other log finishes.
Still not sure on which log finish to choose? You can order free samples of all our finishes to test on your home. We want you to have confidence in the color you choose.
In short, all our wood stains and finishes perform phenomenally – providing excellent UV protection, allowing wood to breathe as the home acclimates seasonally, and ensuring maximum color retention.
For over 40 years Perma-Chink Systems has been protecting log homes and protecting them right. Our focus is on preserving log and timber homes for future generations. We want log home owners to focus on making memories in their home, not spending all their time maintaining the home.
Why is it so Critical to Seal Exposed Ends of Log Homes?
Wood is a hygroscopic material, which means it naturally absorbs and releases moisture from the environment. Logs can safely absorb large quantities of water before reaching moisture content levels that will be inviting for decay fungi.
Some of the most vulnerable areas of a log home are the corner log ends. This is because the cross-section end grain is exposed and the ends often stick out beyond the walls allowing sunlight, wind, rain, snow and ice to wear away the stain and expose bare wood.
The exposed end grain acts like small straws by sucking water into the log, giving rot and decay an opportunity to start eating away the wood. In addition, wood cracks and checks are prone to start at the ends. If left unprotected long enough, log or log corner replacement may eventually be required.
Aware of the susceptibility of log ends to weathering, rot, and decay, we developed Log End Seal, a clear polymer finish that prevents water from penetrating into log ends and provides a layer of protection against log end damage. Although it is a sealer, Log End Seal is designed to allow moisture already in the wood to slowly escape. This helps reduce those large checks that often form on log ends.
The first step when applying Log End Seal is to sand the log ends smooth with a belt or orbital sander or sanding disks (available here). Take care not to leave any deep sanding marks or gouges. Most log homes arrive with the log ends sawn off to the proper length. The sawing may leave a rough surface and when stained the log ends typically end up being much darker than the smooth sides. A log end that has been sanded smooth and then stained will be much closer in color to the log walls.
Applying Log End Seal
Once the log ends are sanded and one of our LIFELINE brand stains is applied to the home and allowed to dry, you are ready to put Log End Seal on the exposed ends. Although you can use a short-bristled brush to apply Log End Seal, we found that an applicator pad works best. Be sure to coat the entire face of each log end to avoid any uncoated spots. Wipe off any excess that may have dripped onto the sides of the logs with a damp rag.
Allow the Log End Seal to dry to the touch and finish the job with LIFELINE Advance clear topcoat in gloss or satin.
Drying and Curing Time
Once Log End Seal dries and cures, it may take a while before it loses its milky appearance, especially in checks and fissures. But the end result will be an appealing, clear surface that will offer the utmost protection to the ends of your logs.
Download the application steps of Log End Seal here: Log End Seal Tech Tip
Spring Cleaning! Steps to Prolong the Life of Your Log Home
Every Spring life begins anew. Flowers bloom, trees blossom, and the grass grows thick and green. The springtime is the perfect time to clean and start fresh! Log homes have their own cycles of maintenance, slightly different than a stick-built home. We have found that in the springtime, it’s an excellent time to get things ready for the summer and shake off the wet fall and winter.
We will walk you through our recommended process to ensure your home keeps looking great for a long time. From cleaning to inspection to evaluating your log home’s finish, we’ll prepare you with a system that’s easy to follow.
Cleaning The Exterior with Log Wash
After months of rain, wind, leaves, snow, and pollen, there’s a bit of gunk on your log home. It’s always a good idea to clean your home before inspecting it, as the grime can potentially cover issues you wouldn’t notice otherwise.
Log Wash™ is a general purpose, low-pH cleaner concentrate for removing dirt, grime, pollen, and mold and mildew stains from bare wood surfaces and existing finishes. Log Wash will also remove some types of brown stains and lighten the color of bare wood. Log Wash is not effective for removing grayed, oxidized wood fibers; PCS developed Wood ReNew to bring wood back to its natural look. Whenever bare wood surfaces are left exposed to the elements for more than seven days, the surfaces should be cleaned with a solution of Log Wash before the first coat of finish is applied.
Preparing For Inspection
One key to keep your log home in tip-top condition is to take an hour or so once the weather turns nice to inspect the exterior of your home for signs of potential problems.
Before we start the inspection process, here are a few tips:
- Make a diagram of your home that you can carry with you while you conduct your inspection. It does not have to be fancy, just a simple plan that you can use to note where something needs to be done.
- If you have a digital camera, take it with you during your inspection. It’s amazing how something you see may disappear when you go back to look for it.
- Use a checklist of inspection points that are relevant to your home. It’s easy to forget what to look for by the time you get to the third or fourth wall.
- As mentioned earlier, give your home a wash down with Log Wash before you start your inspection. It’s difficult to determine the condition of a finish if it’s covered with a layer of winter dirt.
The Inspection
Start at one corner of the home and be sure to go all the way around. Inspect each wall individually and don’t try to inspect too much at a time. Begin by standing back away from the wall and looking for some of the more obvious problems such as:
- Filled gutters and blocked down spouts. If you are not sure about them, use a garden hose to check that they are in good working order.
- Look at the dormers and upper story windows for signs of water damage. If you have a problem seeing that far, use binoculars to inspect the higher areas.
- If you have a sprinkler system, turn it on to make sure that no water hits the log or foundation walls.
- Plants and shrubs should be no closer than 24 inches to any log wall. If necessary, trim them back or move them. Tree limbs should be no closer than three feet from your walls or roof.
- Move any piles of firewood at least two feet away from the foundation and never store firewood on your porch.
- Look for any wood in contact with the ground, even if it’s pressure treated. For protection against termites and rot, all wood should be at least 12 to 18 inches above the soil line.
When you stand back from a wall you can better see general patterns of wear and fading of your finish, especially on the south and west walls.
Close-Up Inspection
Now that you have inspected the wall from a distance, it’s time to get up close to see what’s going on.
Log Finish Condition
- Look closely at the finish. Round logs tend to weather more on the upper half than the lower half since this area is most exposed to the sun and rain.
- Test the adhesion of the finish by placing a strip of masking tape on the log surface and removing the tape. If the tape is clean, your finish is working as intended.
Dealing With Checks (log cracks)
- Are there any new upward-facing checks that have opened up since your last inspection? If so, use Backer Rod and Check Mate 2 to seal them. It’s also a good idea to pour a little Shell-Guard RTU in the check before you seal it to kill any rot fungus that may have started to grow. Learn more about sealing checks here.
Areas of Decay
- If you have logs showing signs of decay, take along a small hammer and lightly tap the logs every few feet. If a log sounds hollow or you get a dull thud, you may have a pocket of rot that needs to be addressed. Use a thin screwdriver to probe the area. If the wood is soft, dig it out, apply some Shell-Guard RTU, let it dry and fill the void using M-Balm and E-Wood.
While inspecting the logs, look for signs of insect infestations. A few small beetle holes here and there are no cause for alarm. Most of the holes will probably be old and empty. If you think that the holes are new, apply a strip of masking tape over them and check it a week or so later. If the infestation is active, holes will appear in the masking tape. It takes many years for these beetles to do much damage. Just make a note of it (keeping the inspection checklist handy is one way), and when it comes time to completely refinish the home, treat the bare wood with Shell-Guard before a new finish is applied.
Window and door frames are the source of many water related problems. Check to see if the caulk is adhering to the adjoining surfaces. If it’s not, pull it out and re-caulk with Energy Seal or Woodsman. Never use a silicone-based caulk; it won’t adhere to wood!
Give special attention to all log ends, especially if they extend out beyond roof overhangs. The ends really absorb water and that’s where a lot of rot problems start. Consider sanding the butt ends, putting on a fresh coat of stain and sealing them with Log End Seal, then apply LIFELINE Advance over the entire home. Log ends that stick out in the weather take a beating and need a little extra care to keep them in good shape.
Finished!
And that should be it! It might seem like a lot of work, but not maintaining your log home could end up costing you thousands of dollars in repairs or worse, a lost home.
Inspecting your home every year is the best way to keep on top of any developing issues. Over the past 40 years, we’ve developed the best system in preserving log homes, and we’ll be there to help you along the way.
Surviving the South Fork Fire
I wanted to share our experience and express my gratitude for your incredible products and support.
Hi! My name is Brent Kriegel. We own a log home in Ruidoso, NM, which we purchased in September 2020. In July 2021, we fully restored the exterior—sandblasting off the old oil-based stain and using 100% Perma-Chink Systems products for Prep, Stain, and Energy Seal. The results were fantastic!
South Fork Fire & Home Impact
Fast forward to June 17, 2024, when the South Fork Fire devastated our area. The fire, which was declared a national disaster, burned 17,000 acres and destroyed 21 cabins in our subdivision, including our guesthouse and carport.
Amazingly, our log home—the primary residence—is the only structure still standing in our neighborhood.
The damage to our cabin was minimal:
We lost the first couple of steps to our front porch and a pier from the back porch.
Six windows on the west side cracked from the heat.
Repairing the Damage
After utilities were restored, I connected with Dakota Zeman from Perma-Chink Systems for an inspection. We reviewed photos, FaceTimed for a closer look, and tested the exterior gloss. The solution was simple:
One coat of exterior gloss topcoat
Touch-up of the Energy Seal between the logs
The Completed Project
Four months later, we are back in our cabin, and everything is great. We experienced minimal smoke damage inside, which I credit to the Energy Seal sealant protecting between the logs. After applying a new coat of Lifeline Advance top gloss and fixing a few small Energy Seal areas, the cabin looks brand new again.
I’ve received multiple phone calls from locals, all asking how our cabin survived the fire. My answer is always simple:
“We are incredibly thankful—and I recommend building with solid logs and using Perma-Chink Systems products.”
Thank you and your entire team for your support during this difficult time.
Gratefully,
Brent K.
Ruidoso, NM
Closing Notes
We at Perma-Chink Systems thank Brent for being a great customer and we’re happy that the home was not severely damaged. As much as we would love to claim it, our products are not fireproof. Please mitigate fire risk by clearing around the home any flammable materials or foilage.
As our country was founded, established and expanded, log homes were prevalent across the colonies. President Abraham Lincoln was famously raised in a log home, and that home is still preserved today. Some of our greatest presidents came from humble beginnings and modest homes. What some people might not know is a log home constructed in 1808 was built on George Washington’s Farm.
Perma-Chink Systems has the honor of being part of the restoration and preservation of the log home, remembering history as we do it. In honor of President’s Day, we take a look at the restoration of this log home on Washington’s Farm.
“When I stumbled upon Washington Farm’s log home, built in 1808, I knew the logs would need a LOT of restoration. Due to the historical significance of the structure I was determined only to work with the best in the country. Of all the contractors I contacted none of them were as prompt, courteous and knowledgeable as Mr. Pat Woody and his team. The pricing proposed was very reasonable and the work meticulous. I HIGHLY recommend Woody Wood Chinking to other historical log home enthusiasts without hesitation.”
– M. Boblitt
“We pressure washed the logs, then removed the exterior chinking, backer and insulation. We replaced the insulation and installed backing material. We then applied Lifeline Ultra-2 Stone Gray color to the logs. We applied Perma-Chink Sandstone chinking to the exterior. Finally we applied Lifeline Advance satin topcoat. Working on the job was myself, Chris Woody, my dad, Pat Woody, and our friend Nathon Foster.”
– Chris Woody, Woody Wood Chinking
For more information contact Woody Wood Chinking at 434-384-0515
When it’s time to restore your log or timber home – or you’re building new – choose the products used to preserve history. Perma-Chink Systems has the leading log and timber home care products from sealants to finishes to cleaners and more.
519 acres owned 1794-1799 by the First President
Thomas Sprigg, Jr., patented in 1725 as “Woodstock” 1,102 acres here, inherited in 1782 by Sprigg’s three granddaughters, Sophia, Rebecca and Elizabeth. Sophia married John Francis Mercer (later Governor of Maryland, 1801-1803.) in 1794. Nearly half of the property was conveyed to George Washington to settle a debt owed by Mercer’s father. Washington owned this land at his death in 1799.
Erected by Maryland Bicentennial Commission and Maryland Historical Society
Presidents have come from varied backgrounds, humble and not-so-humble. Take a look at former homes of Presidents in our article Presidential Birthplaces.
A hollowed-out piece of timber on your home might make a convenient storage space for sports equipment or toys, but it’s a problem. Before you panic and list your home up on Zillow or Redfin, let’s take a look at the situation.
What To Do When You Find Log Rot?
How much decay have you found? If it’s not halfway deep through the log, or less than a couple of feet lengthwise, odds are it can be repaired easily. M-Balm and E-Wood from Perma-Chink Systems are specially formulated epoxies designed to repair decay and soft spots in homes. Large voids can be repaired with filler wood like 2×4 boards to add some rigidity to the repaired section.
The biggest threat to log homes is decay damage, caused by moisture-loving fungi. The three basic categories of wood-destroying fungi are soft rot, brown rot, and white rot. Preventing rot begins with eliminating as much contact as possible with moisture, which breeds fungi. The best product that addresses moisture prevention is using borate preservatives, which destroy wood fungi and protect against decay. It also fights against wood-boring insects.
If you do discover decay in your logs during inspections, it can most likely be mitigated and eliminated without the need for a costly log replacement. If the decay does not exceed more than half the depth of the log, or only a few feet lengthwise, use M-Balm and E-Wood.
E-Wood epoxy has the ability to be cut, sanded, textured, and finished like real wood.
How To Repair Log Rot?
Jeff Kyger of Northwest Log Home Care showed us a decay issue and the resolution utilizing M-Balm and E-Wood to repair the log. While it is a handy storage space for sports equipment, the decay could have progressed deep in the wood and compromised the home. Jeff was able to repair the log decay damage with M-Balm and E-Wood.
The first step in repair is to clean out the decay and get the log dry.
We recommend applying Shell-Guard RTU to the cleaned area to eliminate any possible decay fungi and prevent future infestation. Once the decay cavity has dried, coat the exposed wood with M-Balm to bond loose fibers and create a solid bonding surface area for the filler agent. M-Balm epoxy liquid penetrates deeply into porous wood, curing and hardening into a strong water-resistant mass that includes the original wood fibers and the epoxy mixture.
E-Wood epoxy can be stained with Lifeline stains during mixing or after application to match your log home color.
What About Small Areas of Wood Rot?
For small voids, use E-Wood Paste. E-Wood paste epoxy works excellent on window trims, small checks on log ends and other places where putty may be difficult to apply.
How To Find Log Rot?
Regularly inspect your home for rot and stop it from spreading and causing an expensive repair. We recommend annual inspections every spring season, where cleaning the home allows a focused look at your log home. With Perma-Chink System’s wood restoration products M-Balm and E-Wood, decay can be repaired and your home restored to like-new condition.
Check out our tech tip on repairing large voids, and our other Tech Tips for more in-depth instructions on maintaining and repairing your log home.
If you have any questions or need to order product, call us at 1-800-548-3554.
Energy Seal™ is specially formulated for sealing narrow gaps in log home joinery such as butt joints, window trims, door trim and corners. These gaps should be no larger than one inch wide. Energy Seal contains a fine aggregate that gives it a texture which enables it to more closely match the texture of wood and accept a stain, so that it will blend in with the stained wall color if so desired. Although it can be used in wider joints, we typically recommend using Perma-Chink® Log Home Chinking for wide chink joints.
When Should Energy Seal Be Applied?
The best time to apply Energy Seal is after the home has been cleaned and before the finish is applied. The wood surfaces will be fresh and clean and Energy Seal adheres best to bare wood surfaces. That’s not saying that it won’t adhere to stained and/or top-coated surfaces, but it adheres best to bare wood. Application to surfaces with a freshly applied oil-based stain should be avoided. For the least visible caulk lines choose a color that’s a shade lighter than the stain color you plan to use. It’s easier to cover a lighter color sealant with a darker color stain than it is to hide a dark colored sealant with a light colored stain. However, if you prefer the look of visible caulk lines, apply Energy Seal after you stain. Just be sure that the surface is clean and dry.
If you are going to be applying Lifeline Advance Topcoat, apply the topcoat after the Energy Seal. This results in a more even appearance to the sealed areas and helps them blend in with the rest of the wall. Furthermore, it helps keep the Energy Seal application clean and easier to clean when maintenance cleaning is required.
Using Backing Materials
Backing materials furnish an even surface for the application of a sealant and make it easier to apply a uniform thickness across the joint or gap. They also provide two-point adhesion to ensure maximum elasticity and flexibility after the sealant has cured (they form a bond breaker in the center of the sealant band with adhesion to the wood at both sides). The use of improper or poorly installed backing materials can result in unsightly sealant joints and substandard performance. They are an integral part of the sealant system and should always be used whenever and wherever possible.
There are a number of products specifically designed for use as backing materials for sealants. For smaller gaps, joints and cracks the most commonly used material is round backer rod. It comes in a range of sizes and is relatively inexpensive. Since it is flexible it can be pushed into a crevice without needing to be nailed or stapled. Grip Strip is designed for sealing larger gaps. Similar in composition to backer rod, it is shaped like a trapezoid so it can be squeezed in between round logs although it can be used in a variety of situations. It provides a flat surface for chinking or sealing.
In situations where a joint, seam or gap is too small to insert Backer Rod you can hold it in place by applying small dabs of Energy Seal along the seam and then pressing the Backer Rod into them. The dabs of Energy Seal will hold the Backer Rod in place while a proper thickness of Energy Seal is applied on top. You can also use a narrow strip of water-resistant masking tape. You don’t want to use masking tape that wrinkles when it gets wet, since the wrinkles may show through the sealant. For extremely narrow seams an excellent option is to use pinstripe tape available at most automotive supply stores. The tape is vinyl; therefore, it’s waterproof and since our sealants do not bond to it, it makes an excellent material to use. Pinstripe tape is available in widths down to 1/8”.
Approved Backing Materials
- Grip Strip
- Backer Rod
- Log Gap Cap
- Expanded polystyrene (EPS) beadboard, foil-faced
- Polyisocyanurate board (Polyiso or R Max)
- Water-resistant masking tape or pinstripe tape
DO NOT USE
- Extruded Polystyrene (causes blisters)
- Polyurethane foam (Pur Fill, Great Stuff, Styrofoam)
- Blue Board, Pink Board or any other colored board (outgases and causes blisters)
- Bare wood or strips of bare wood (outgases and loss of elasticity, 3-point adhesion)
- Anything that you are unsure about check with Perma-Chink Systems before using it
The Role Backing Materials Play When Sealing a Seam
Round Logs
When deciding the width of a sealant joint between round logs a good guideline to follow is for the width of the sealant to be one-sixth the log diameter. For example, with six inch diameter logs 6” ÷ 6 = 1.0” wide sealant joint. The width of the backing material you require depends on the profile of your logs but you need to take into account that you will be applying a 3/8” thick layer of sealant over it and you’ll need at least ¼” top and bottom for adequate adhesion to the wood.
Squared Logs
We rarely see squared log chink joints less than 2” wide, so Energy Seal or Woodsman is seldom used in these situations. However, for cosmetic chink joints less than 3/8 inches deep we recommend sealing the seam with Energy Seal and then applying Chink Paint over the entire joint. On the other hand Energy Seal is often used on squared logs for sealing corners, butt joints, widows, door frames and other areas where a visible chink joint is not desired.
Applying Energy Seal
The overall performance of any sealant system is dependent on the use of proper application methods. Any sealant must be applied in a manner that will allow it to stretch in order to compensate for log movement. If it is applied too thick, once it cures it won’t be able to stretch enough to compensate for the movement and it may tear away from the wood. Think of it like a rubber band. A thick rubber band will not stretch as far as a thin one. However if the rubber band is too thin, it will break when it is stretched. The same thing applies to sealants. If applied too thick, they can’t stretch and if too thin they may be weak and will tear when pulled apart. In the case of our sealants the magic number is an applied wet thickness of 3/8”. When cured this results in the best elongation with maximum strength.
Have the Proper Tools
Before you start have all of the tools that you will need at hand and be sure that they are clean and in good working order.
These may include:
- Caulk gun or bulk loading gun
- Rags
- Trowels and/or spatulas
- Plant mister with water
- Masking tape
Weather Conditions
Freshly applied sealants should be protected from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. Either watch the weather or drape a newly sealed wall with plastic film. Be sure to allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying. Avoid applying sealants in direct sunlight or when the temperature is less than 40° F. In cold weather it’s important that the logs be free of frost and dew in order to ensure that the sealant adheres tightly to the wood. The best surface temperature range for easiest application and best results is between 50° F and 80° F.
Application
Cut the applicator or tube tip to the desired diameter of the sealant bead you want to apply.
Step 1: Begin by holding the tip firmly against the seam or joint and apply a bead of sealant. You need to apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of at least 5/16” and no more than ½” (target = 3/8”) across the entire seam or joint after tooling. Only apply as much sealant as you can tool smooth in about 15 minutes.
Step 2: Once the joint is filled trowel it out to approximately 3/8th of an inch thick across the entire joint. Do not spray it with water at this time! Make sure there is good contact between the sealant and the exposed edges of the wood. The most difficult areas to tool are corners. You tend to drag product out of the corners resulting in the sealant becoming too thin. You can occasionally check the thickness of the sealant using a toothpick to see if you are maintaining the proper thickness.
Step 3: Once the sealant is roughly in place and any entrapped air worked out of it, spray it with a light mist of water. Do not saturate the surface with water. If water begins to run down the wall, you have applied too much.
Step 4: Tool the surface smooth with a trowel or spatula. If you used masking tape to protect the surrounding wood be sure to remove it as soon as you are finished tooling and make sure that you have not left any lip on the top edge of the sealant that may catch water. If you have, tool it smooth.
Sealing Window & Door Frames
Clean-Up
If you get any sealant on the surface of the wood, be sure to wipe it off with a wet rag as soon as possible. If you allow it to dry it will be just about impossible to completely remove. Make sure to clean your tools and equipment with clean water occasionally during application. Dried sealant is difficult to remove from just about anything including clothes.
Drying and Curing
Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, Energy Seal may begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take a couple of weeks. Cooler temperatures will slow both the drying time and curing process.