Blog & News
Wood Renew™ – To pre-wet or not to pre-wet?
Fairly often we get questions about Wood Renew™ with reference to whether or not to wet the surface before application. First, I would refer to the label directions as to use and application. There is no mention of the need to wet the surface prior to application. However, there is mention of proper pre-mixing and allowing a bit of “dwell” time prior to application. This dwell time allows the thickeners to activate and aid in helping it to stay on the wall so it can do its work for better results.
The dwell time also needs to extend to the wall surfaces to allow the product to clean and brighten the wood as best it can. Now, not all stains are easily removed, and it may require a bit of old-fashioned elbow grease with a stiff bristle brush to get at the stubborn stains. Try not to allow the product to dry on the surfaces as this will make it a bit more difficult to rinse away.
The best recommendations are to follow the label directions as to mixing and application, and there is no need to pre-wet the surface prior to application.
Application of Wood ReNew
Step 1: Use Wood ReNew to remove grayed surface wood.
Step 2: Only measure out enough Wood ReNew to add to a few gallons of water (0.8 cups per gallon) at a time. You need to use whatever you mix up within 1 to 2 hours.
Step 3: Pour the Wood ReNew into a pail that contains the water. Do not mix Wood ReNew in a sprayer.
Step 4: Mix the Wood ReNew with the water using a paint mixer and an electric drill.
Step 5: Stir for about five minutes or until no undissolved granules are visible. Allow the solution to thicken for 10 minutes before using.
Step 6: Apply the Wood ReNew solution to the wall with a mop, broom, or car wash brush. Start at the bottom of the wall and work up. Allow the solution to remain on the wall for 10 minutes.
Step 7: Pressure wash starting at the bottom of the wall. Work on 2 or 3 courses of logs at a time. Hold the wand at a 30 to 45 degree angle to avoid feathering the wood.
Step 8: Once the entire wall is pressure washed, rinse the wall starting at the top and work down. At this stage water volume is more important than pressure.
Step 9: Never judge the effectiveness of Wood ReNew or any other cleaner while the wood is still wet.
Step 10: Once the wood dries, many of the dark discolorations will disappear. This is the same wall that appears in the previous step after drying for three hours.
Should any questions arise please contact one of our product specialist via our toll-free number (1-800-548-3554) or visit our website at www.permachink.com and we will be happy to help you.
Many people are under the impression that the winter months are hard on their logs and finishes. To some extent that’s true. In cold climates where the exterior log surfaces may be covered with ice and snow for several months can be damaging if the logs aren’t properly finished. But even then, the most damaging effects of weather on wood and coatings actually occur during the hot summer months. Once homeowners understand the main causes of surface weathering, the better equipped they will be in choosing the right products to protect the home from weathering.
Understanding The Causes of Weathering
One component of sunlight is ultraviolet light, commonly referred to as UV light, or UV rays. UV light is responsible for most damage to exposed wood because it changes or destroys the wood’s lignin, a component of wood that hardens and strengthens the cell walls. In more scientific terms, this process is called photo-oxidation.
Lifeline™ finish systems help retard this photo-oxidation process through three distinct mechanisms: reflection, absorption, and chemical reaction. Our Advance Gloss and Advance Satin topcoats help reflect the sun’s rays, thus reducing the amount of UV light hitting the color coats and the underlying wood.
Glossy surfaces are better reflectors than dull surfaces, which is why our Advance Gloss provides a bit more protection than Advance Satin. However, an accumulation of dirt on the finish will significantly reduce the reflective properties of the topcoat, one reason why a home should be routinely cleaned with Log Wash™. Advance topcoats also help protect the color coats and wood from the abrading effects of wind, rain, ice, and snow.
The profile of the logs has a significant impact on the weathering characteristics of a wall. The effect of sunlight and the weather on round logs is altogether different than on square logs or flat, vertical siding.
ROUND LOGS
The top third of a round log is subjected to much more intense weathering than the bottom third. In cold weather climates snow and ice can accumulate on the upper third while the bottom third remains somewhat protected. Upward facing checks that have formed in the top section of the log will funnel rainwater directly into the interior of the log where it can soak into the surrounding wood. But most damaging of all is the angle of the top third of a round log towards the sun. The top third of round logs catches many times more UV light than the bottom third. Besides exposing the wood to more UV exposure, the UV inhibitors in the upper third may become used up, whereas in the lower third they may still be active. Over time this can result in a noticeable difference in color and signs of weathering between the upper and lower sections of the logs. Providing some maintenance to the upper sections of round logs without creating lap marks or color differences can be accomplished, but it may be a bit of a challenge. The key is to do the maintenance before the wood becomes gray due to photo-oxidation.
SQUARED LOGS
Squared logs and vertical flat siding are easier to maintain since the sun hits the logs at the same angle, and the UV light is evenly distributed over the entire surface. In addition, the flat vertical surfaces cannot accumulate snow and ice and even upward facing checks are not as prone to rainwater entering the logs. Although squared logs are subject to the same weathering parameters as round logs, and since the weathering is mostly uniform over the entire exposed surface, maintenance is easier to accomplish without worrying about lap marks and color differentiation.
LOG SIDING
Round log siding probably presents the greatest challenge to forestalling the effects of weathering. Typically used in high exposure locations such as dormers and gable ends, in addition to suffering the same weathering characteristics as round logs, log siding has some features which makes it even more difficult to protect from the effects of the weather. Siding is often manufactured from lower quality wood than logs, frequently using green wood. This makes it more susceptible to twisting, warping and cracking. Since siding does not have the high thermal mass of full logs, during the summer months their temperature can range from 80ºF to 160ºF – or higher – during the course of one day. This puts a lot of mechanical stress on both the siding and its finish system resulting in small fissures forming on the surface. Rainwater can then enter these fissures and get behind the finish.
FISSURING OF LOG SIDING
Round log siding is typically milled quite smooth. The extreme smoothness presents a challenge applying the proper thickness of pigmented film necessary for adequate protection of the underlying wood. Smooth log siding should be coarse sanded or pressure washed using Wood ReNew™ before the application of the pigmented stain.
Protect From Weathering
There are two basic ways to combat the effects of weathering. The most effective method is to keep log walls and siding in the shade by extending roof overhangs or constructing roofed porches around the home. In conjunction with using a high quality finish system like Lifeline™ Ultra-7 and Advance Topcoat, this will be the most effective measure to prevent excessive weathering. If unable to protect by structural shade, the next best way is to apply the best finish system – Lifeline™ Ultra-7 and Advance Topcoat. But the overall performance of even the best finish system is dependent upon proper surface preparation and application technique. Avoiding the use of chlorine bleach will preserve the wood and finish, and back-brushing all coats of finish to assure adequate film thickness is crucial for long-term protection of the wood.
Log home living is a tradition that never loses its charm, the warmth of its country ambiance unmatched. And with all the modern innovation, this cozy way of life is more comfortable than ever.
Just about the only drawback has been maintaining its exterior. Log home owners dread with a passion the mighty job of refinishing that inevitably must be done to preserve the beautiful look of their natural logs. But you have come to the right place. There are plenty of reasons you’ll never have to give it a second thought again.
Wood Surface Preparation Methods
Traditionally, we dread using any kind of chemical strippers to soften the surface due to the environmental impact. Since chemical strippers only soften an existing finish, they must be used along with a pressure washer to actually remove the finish from the wall. We offer two types of environmentally-friendly wood finish removers that specifically designed for log homes: S-100 and StripIt. Both products are water-based solvents that remove most oil, water-based stains and topcoats. They contain no-harsh chemicals, are bio-degradable and non-flammable, and unlike caustic strippers will not discolor the wood. As opposed to media blasting, chemical stripping is much more user-friendly since all it takes is a general purpose pressure washer.
Check out this video on chemical stripping the finish
Round logs are a pain to sand with a flat belt. Getting to every corner and crevice takes hours, and the dust is not so great on our lungs in the meantime. Well, now you can file all those inconveniences under ancient memory. It might sound crazy at first, but the latest and greatest dry method around is blasting that aging, discolored finish off with new age glass media. Glass media is lighter than sand, so while it strikes your home with necessary force, it has less weight – this allows it to remove the stain without harming the wood. There is also no risk of blowing water into your house because the media is dry, and you can re-stain immediately.
Check out this video on media blasting the finish.
Of course, you can hire someone to do it for you. If you prefer, call us and we can find you a contractor near you, or visit https://www.permachink.com/contractors/ for a list of contractors in your area.
Either way, you can rest assured you are making the right decision for the environment, your home, your budget and your family.
There are many great things about log homes that make them appealing to the owners and future owners. Usually at the top is the look and design of the log home, capturing the spirit of the frontier and settling the wild west. Sometimes a custom home, sometimes an ordered home from a builder, but definitely a chosen home for the owners. Achieving this look is completed with the final design choice – the color of the log stain and log sealant. The two main options are contrasting colors or blended colors. Our stains and finishes pair with our sealants to make sure your home looks the best, no matter what you decide.
Color Choices
On occasion, our team is asked “What color should I choose?” While it’s up to you as the log home owner, our color selection is unmatched and we can give recommendations. Then owners have the follow-up question: “What color of log home sealant goes with this?” There are so many different combinations possible, it’s hard for us to answer for the owners.
The first decision to make is the choice between wanting a contrasting sealant to the stain or a blending or matching the sealant to the log stain. Our photo galleries reflect the many different combinations of stains and sealant, and, in the humble opinion of this author, all of them look fantastic on log homes.
Samples of Contrasting and Blended Colors
It tends to be personal preference how the home looks at the end of the day. Perma-Chink Systems’ photo galleries offer great visualizations of the possible combinations, both contrasting and blending. Our staff is more than willing to help you find that perfect combination, and we offer free color samples to make sure you like the color.
Being green isn’t being the color green – although we make a family of bold colors like this green finish in the picture above. Our standard and custom colors aside, being “green” is how our products are produced to be safe for the environment.
We know that in today’s environment being “green” is considered an important factor in the decision process of many of our customers. Being “green” – environmentally friendly – is one reason why log homes are so popular. But what about the finishes used on log homes, can they be “green” as well? The answer depends on the criteria used to define “green.”
For example, there are several manufacturers of oil-based finishes that claim their products are “green” since they contain linseed or soybean oil which are considered renewable resources. What they don’t say is that their products also contain large amounts of petroleum-based solvents and the only way to clean-up these products is to use turpentine or mineral spirits, products that fall under regulated disposal requirements due to their toxicity and high, negative environmental impact.
One standard for being “green” is the amount of volatile organic compounds (VOC) contained in a product. Both state and federal agencies regulate the amount of allowable VOCs contained in coatings, since VOCs have been implicated in both depletion of the ozone layer and global warming. These regulations have had a serious impact on oil-based products forcing manufactures to reduce solvent content by adding fillers and other solids with a subsequent reduction in attractiveness and performance.
All of Perma-Chink Systems’ LIFELINE-brand stains are water-based products that contain no petroleum distillates and comply with all state and federal regulations for contained volatile organic compounds (VOC). Ever since our inception in 1981, we at Perma-Chink Systems, Inc. have always tried to formulate our products to have the least impact on our environment. In addition, we’ve targeted healthy living areas with our specifically-formulated interior finishes by meeting the highest interior air quality standards. Through our testing, we’ve found that solvent or petroleum based finishes don’t perform as well in exposure testing compared to our water-based LIFELINE finishes. In case you doubt testing, here are some real customer testimonials:
I have been very impressed with how well your product has preserved my home for nearly three decades. – Greg D.
Very pleased with Perma-Chink products. They are easy to use and they brightened up our 35-year old cabin with a warmth of color, couldn’t be happier! – Valerie K.
I am a ticketed carpenter and a ticketed log builder. I believe that if you build with wood you must protect it. I believe that Perma-Chink provides you with the best line of products to do so. They are environmentally friendly and if you apply them as they recommend then they will perform as you expect them to. I use only Perma-Chink products and I recommend you do so as well! – Dave B.
Our stains and sealants are recognized by environmental organizations as being truly “green” since they have minimum impact on the ecosystem. And since clean-up requires only soap and water, they do not contribute any toxicants or pollutants to our surroundings.
It’s a sad fact that being “green” has become a meaningless term used by companies’ marketing departments to help promote and sell their products. We are proud to say that our technical staff will continue to produce and develop superior products that do not damage our environment and have no adverse health effects on either the people applying our products or individuals who live in log homes stained or sealed with materials supplied by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.
In fact, our chemists evaluate all the components that go into our products to ensure they are the safest for our employees, product applicators, the homeowner, and the environment. Our sealants are completely free of petroleum distillates which has improved the sealant’s performance as well as made it safer for people and the environment.
Although paint primers have been used for many years, clear primers for wood are few and far between. Lifeline Prelude™ is the only water-based clear wood primer on the market that’s specifically designed for use on log and timber homes before the application of a water-based stain.
Following are a few situations where we recommend the use of Lifeline Prelude:
1. After a home has been media blasted.
2. If a home is aggressively pressure washed to the point where the surface is feathered and the porosity of the wood varies from area to area.
3. On wood where the surface has been unevenly sanded.
4. On rough cut siding before the application of the color coat(s).
5. If a section of a wall has been repaired or replaced and the new sections don’t match the surface characteristics of the old.
6. Whenever an older log home (more than 80 years old) is going to be restored. Once the surface of old wood is cleaned of grayed wood it typically takes on the porosity characteristics of a blasted surface.
7. Whenever you want to use only clear coats on interior surfaces. Although Lifeline Interior Clear can be used, the use of Lifeline Prelude as the first sealing coat is a somewhat better deal, since it already contains UV Boost. Once the Prelude dries, Acrylic Gloss or Satin or PCS Clear Shield™ Gloss or Matte can be applied over it.
8. Whenever a home is completed but may remain without an exterior finish for many months, a coat of Lifeline Prelude will help prevent surface graying and make it easier to clean when it comes time to stain.
There may be other occasions when a priming coat will make a home more attractive, easier to stain or add to the longevity of the finish system, but it should never be used on smooth surfaced wood to obtain a lighter final color.
Lifeline Prelude should never be used as the final coat. It is a primer and must always be covered with one of our interior or exterior finish systems.
This Custom Luxury Timber Home Is Draped In Perma-Chink Systems Ultra-7 And Advance Satin
This extraordinary custom timber frame home was designed by Jan Donelson with Timberland Design and Hearthstone Homes, in TN. Hearthstone Homes feature an unmatched ability to create any imaginable style of custom, luxury, handcrafted Heavy-Timber or Log-Based Home. Timber framing is a noble type of construction that utilizes exacting variations of mortise-and-tenon type joinery and massive timbers to form the framework of a building. Note Hearthstone’s signature ‘antique weathered’ texturing on the Doug Fir Timbers
Log Home Care crew did the staining and energy seal application in 2018.
Picture Gallery
“Thompson Thrift Construction has been a national residential and commercial builder since 1986 with over 500 employees operating in 21 states. Being asked to complete the interior and exterior stain application on the owner’s personal new build residence was an honor. This client set high standards for every facet of the planning and execution of the build process, including the finish work, and after extensive product testing Perma-Chink Systems LIFELINE Ultra-7 Smoke and LIFELINE Advance Satin were selected for the project. The surfaces were treated with Log Wash, and some areas with Wood ReNew, and the stain/topcoat applied as specified by the manufacturer. The results are stunning.”
Wayne Bell, Owner Log Home Care, www.LogHomeCareOnline.com
For more images of this home visit:https://hearthstonehomes.com/photo_gallery/paris-il-timber-frame/
Perma-Chink Systems History Over 40 Years
The Beginning
In 1980 my neighbor told me about building a log home in Eastern Washington. He said that he loved the home and the lifestyle but was disappointed that with the wind constantly blowing and harsh cold winters, there was no real effective way to seal the gaps between the logs. The house leaked air and heat, and wind-driven rain literally came right through the walls.
He tried various caulking materials with little success. Caulking around a bathtub or sink was significantly different from ‘caulking’ literally miles of seams between logs in a log house. After a number of conversations and experiments, it became apparent that there was no readily available product that could seal the gaps, look like authentic chinking, and last more than a few months.
After literally months of trial and error, it became apparent that if we were going to design a material that would be acceptable, we would have to design it ourselves.
Defining a New Industry Standard
The product we were designing was to be a replacement for what was known in the Log Home Industry as chinking – the sealant that historically provided the seal between the logs. A “chink” is a gap – as in Biblical Times, “A chink in his armor’. Therefore, chinking is a material to fill a gap. Throughout the centuries of constructing dwellings out of logs, a number of methods were used to seal in between them. Early builders used pretty much anything they could get their hands on – mud, straw and mud, cow manure, mixtures of cement and mortar, and a method I discovered in Russia that was a particular type of moss that, when pounded into the gap, excreted a compound that delayed wood rot.
During our investigation we determined that in order to be a true solution the sealant must meet most important requirements.
- It had to be textured to look like authentic mortar chinking.
- It had to ‘look like it belonged there’.
- It had to be able to expand and contract in order to follow perpetual log movement.
As logs dry out in the summer, they shrink in diameter – in the winter and rainy months they absorb moisture and swell, increasing in diameter.
- The sealant had to adhere tightly to the logs and form a continuous watertight seal that would not separate from the wood.
- It had to be easy to apply – in some cases, gaps up to 4 and 5 inches, and not slump or wash out.
- And most importantly, it had to LAST for decades.
Common caulking materials were quickly ruled out. Everyone has seen thin caulking beads applied to exterior trim that inevitably separate, peel off, flake, crack, and ultimately fail.
No ‘caulk’ could adhere to the wood well enough, could not be applied to the thickness and height required without slumping and running out of the joint, and all caulks had that smooth, artificial look that frankly, of course, looked like caulk! It’s okay for around the tub or sink, but not for my log home, thank you.
Creating the Industry Standard
So, after months of experimentation and learning a tremendous amount of the chemistry of what are called polymers (the chemical building blocks of literally everything that we commonly call paint, plastic, vinyl, glue, etc.), we designed a unique sealant that met all of the most important requirements.
During the design phase we located an innovative small company south of Seattle that manufactured a synthetic stucco. They had experience and machinery that helped us scale up lab designs to large-scale production. We began selling early product in 1981, and the first house we did was in Sun Valley, Idaho – in the middle of winter.
Soon after we had a saleable product that met every design requirement, I did a little market research and discovered that the larger part of the national market for log homes was in the eastern part of the United States, and in particular, the southeast. I also discovered that of the numerous styles of log homes, the three largest manufactures of ‘Dovetail’ log homes were within 100 miles of Knoxville, Tennessee. I liked the Dovetail design because the nature of the structure, and the way the logs are stacked resulted in a chinking gap of up to 4 inches! In some cases, almost 25% of the wall area was chinking!
So, we set up a manufacturing plant in Knoxville, Tennessee. Timing was right because as soon as log home owners and log home manufacturers discovered that we could finally provide a dramatic solution to one of the most significant and perplexing aspects of a log home – the business grew rapidly.
Winning the Manufacturers
Early adopters such as Hearthstone, Honest Abe, Stone Mill, and Appalachian Log Homes helped pave the way for essentially all others to follow. As a matter of fact, one of the earliest applications for any manufacturer was Appalachian. Turns out they had a contract with the US Forest Service to build an outhouse. The location was remote, and the house needed to be completely assembled and transported via helicopter. Obviously, mortar chinking could not withstand that type of stress, so they tried Perma-Chink. That outhouse is still standing today and is weather tight – some applications simply CANNOT fail!
The development of synthetic chinking solved one of the most serious and vexing aspects of the Log Home Industry. The chinking formulation is unique and not simply ‘caulk with sand in it’ as others have offered.
Rick Denton, Honest Abe Log Homes President Emeritus said, “Perhaps the invention of Perma-Chink kept Honest Abe in business, as well as every other log home company using a chinked product line.” Read his story here https://www.honestabe.com/blog/perma-chink/.
What started out as an idea has revolutionized the entire industry. Worldwide, every log structure uses synthetic chinking, and the largest supplier of the most authentic and highest-performance log home chinking is Perma-Chink.
Expanding the Preservation of Log Homes
The next vexing challenge was with log home stains and finishes. Every log home owner wants a log home that looks like an outdoor piece of furniture. One that blends in with the rustic back to nature look and feel of the surroundings. No one would consider painting a log house. That would be like painting a beautiful hand rubbed antique! Log home owners tend to start down the following path after stains start failing: That beautiful stain we applied only lasted a year or maybe two and after two recoats, we may as well paint it. Why can’t someone develop a stain that looks like a furniture grade finish and LASTS?
We began to have literally thousands of people say, ‘You solved my sealant dilemma – now do you have a solution to the stain and finish dilemma?’ So challenge number two was tackled.
Creating the Best Log Home Stains
We used the knowledge and expertise we developed in formulating Perma-Chink Chinking (remember the polymers?) to design the longest lasting semi- transparent stain in the Industry. The formulation is also unique, provides that ‘furniture grade’ appearance, and outlasts any exterior stain on the market. Also, with a Clear Coat (which Perma-Chink Systems also introduced), when the finish is finally starting to “wear” out, all that is needed is a cleaning and application of an additional clear coat. That eliminates the tint buildup and subsequent hiding of the wood and completely eliminates the phrase ‘After two re-coats, I may just as well paint it.’
I personally require hands-on experience with every product Perma-Chink Systems offers. We are dedicated to providing the best products available for the care and maintenance of Log and Timber Frame Homes. As history has shown, and something we take pride in, is ‘Whenever a log home owner becomes aware of a concern, whether it be sealing, staining, or preservation or maintenance, we already have a solution.’
Take a Look At Total Cost
An interesting story – I recently had a heating problem with my log house in Colorado. The bill to repair the system included a small starting capacitor in one of the air handlers. The bill for the part was $6.25 and the bill for the labor was $220! So why would I try save sixty cents on the capacitor when the cost by far was in the labor to replace it? Same is true with a log home stain. By far the largest cost is in application and labor, so it pays to use the best product available. Cheaper stain is a cheap solution that sets you up for a repeat in a year or two, and in the meantime your exterior looks like crap! Pay the extra sixty cents and buy yourself some peace of mind.
By choosing our high-performance finish like Lifeline™ Ultra-7, you are ensuring that the finish will look as beautiful years after application as it did the second day it was applied thanks to a balanced formula of transparent iron oxides, mildew inhibitors and an advanced polymer resin.
Our Success is From Working With Great Customers, Industry-leading Partners, and Fantastic Employees
I am humbled that Perma-Chink Systems has become a ‘household’ name in the log home industry and is recognized for highest of quality. Our products grace the log houses of such noted Americans as former President Jimmy Carter, clothing designer Ralph Lauren, movie stars Tom Cruise, Olympic champion figure skater Kristi Yamaguchi, Nascar champion Dale Earnhardt (read the story here) and thousands of great American home owners.
I am proud of my company, of my employees and our customers. Beginning with our 40th Anniversary, Perma-Chink Systems’ new slogan is “Simply Unmatched”.
By being engaged in best quality products and the best customer service, we will attain our goals and make great strides towards meeting our customers’ expectations for years to come. We raise a toast to the next 40 years of great products, service, and customers of Perma-Chink Systems.
- The late Rich Dunstan, President Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.
How to Prepare New Construction Log Surfaces for Finishing
New logs may look clean and fresh to you, but it doesn’t mean that they are ready to stain. There is some preparation involved in getting new logs ready for finishing.
Logs that have been exposed to the sun may have slight gray areas on them and dirt, dust and mold spores are probably on most of the logs. It is important to start with a clean, uniform surface before applying a coat of stain, since dirt and discolorations will show through semi-transparent stains and the stain will seal in any blemishes. Cleaning also opens up the pores of the wood, allowing better adhesion of the stain. This is especially true if there is a mill glaze present on the logs. Not only will the mill glaze reduce the stain’s performance, but caulks and chinking will have a difficult time adhering to mill glazed wood.
Aggressive cleaning of a new log or timber home is not required. A light cleaning with Log Wash and a pressure washer will usually remove the dirt and mill glaze, as well as clean the surface to prevent the formation of mold under the stain. If the new logs have started to gray from sitting unprotected in the sun, a percarbonate cleaner like Wood ReNew will restore the wood back to its original color. Log Wash and Wood ReNew are much safer products to use compared to bleach solutions which destroy wood fibers.
The leading cause of stain adhesion failures and discolorations appearing under the semi-transparent stains is inadequate rinsing of a bleach-cleaned surface. Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) solutions are alkaline (high pH). Wood, on the other hand, is slightly acidic (low pH). Whenever low pH materials are exposed to high pH solutions, chemical reactions occur. Often these chemical reactions are minor and do not affect either material, but in the case of wood, exposure to bleach solutions may result in several irreversible reactions that may not become apparent for several months. Once the wood fibers are damaged or destroyed, a stain will not properly adhere to the surface and eventually will chip or peel. Even when used at a low concentration, a bit of bleach residue left of the wood will eventually result in discolorations due to iron tannates coming to the surface under the stain.
Occasionally, steel straps used to bundle the logs during transportation will leave iron stains that need to be removed with OXcon oxalic acid. Whenever oxalic acid is used, be sure to clean the entire wall to avoid blotches and streaks.
We never suggest media blasting new construction, but if that is what your log home manufacturer recommends, be sure to use a fine grit media to avoid damaging the surface of the wood.
Congratulations on your new home and happy cleaning!
One of the key bits of information for keeping hardwood floors shiny is knowing what type of finish has been applied to the wood. Was your hardwood sealed with a polyurethane or polyacrylic urethane finish, or was it finished with a paste wax? If you don’t know, here’s a test to help you make the best cleaning choices:
- In a spot with normal foot traffic, place a drop of water on the floor. If the water is quickly absorbed or causes spotting on the finish, this indicates the hardwood has not been sealed and should never be cleaned with water. But if the bead of water just sits on the surface without being absorbed, it means the hardwood floor has been sealed.
- To test for a paste wax finish, grab some fine steel wool and rub it lightly over the floor in a corner. If the floor has been waxed, there will be a gray, waxy film left on the steel wool.
How to Clean Hardwood Floors and Make Them Shine
Unless you have neglected the floors for weeks and have mud and sticky messes everywhere, there is no need to damp mop more than four times per year, suggest experts from The Spruce.
With a lightly dampened microfiber mop, clean in the direction of the wood grain. Never use a sopping-wet mop because too much water can cause floors – even sealed floors – to buckle. For step-by-step instructions, follow these steps from Spruce.
How to Refinish Hardwood Floors?
Up until about 20 years ago, the “Swedish Finish” was the only way to go. Extremely high-performance, it worked well, but as a solvent-based product, it was highly caustic. Certainly not a do-it-yourself project, it required trained professionals and total evacuation for up to a week (including the houseplants!)
Sure Shine offers all that original wearability, durability and beautiful shine, without the toxic fumes and disruption to your life. Instead of solvent-based, it uses a water-based technology that is both environmentally and user-friendly.
If you want a deep, clear finish using fewer coats, Sure Shine premium finish is the one to use!
Sure Shine can be used to re-coat older oil-based floor finishes. Sure Shine cures to a smooth, hard surface that resists scuffing and abrasion. It prevents discolorations from water and most household cleaners and chemicals.
How to Apply Sure Shine Hardwood Floor Finish?
This product shines even brighter from an application standpoint. It’s easy to do yourself, and it dries so quickly (only one hour) you can apply it in one day. Sure Shine never yellows, is non-flammable and there are no fumes, which means there is no reason to suffer the inconvenience of vacating your home. Cleaning up your tools is a simple matter of a little soap and water. And when the work is done, you can walk on your new floor finish in 8 short hours!
More on application of Sure Shine here.
Order your free sample of Sure Shine in Satin or Gloss finish to try on your floor or your walls here.
Projects can be daunting if you have limited or no experience. You gain experience by doing, and getting expert advice when you need, whether it’s before the project, during, or after. Our customer service exists to help all log home owners get the best results using the best products for their log or timber home.
One recent homeowner project done by our customer Beth H. required removing the old finish and sealant, then restoring the home with Lifeline Ultra-2 Natural and Energy Seal in Cedar. Lifeline Advance Gloss topcoat encapsulated the wood, ensuring a long-lasting finish and great look.
| Products Used | |
| Log Wash | Log gap caps |
| Prelude | 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″ backer rod |
| Lifeline Ultra-2 – Natural | Lifeline Advance Gloss |
| Energy Seal – Cedar |
With DIY-friendly products, anyone can tackle a home project and have fantastic looking results like this. In addition to our excellent customer service available to all customers, we have a library of Tech Tips for in-depth information on maintaining your log home.
Take a look at these pictures from Beth, showing the home before and after.
Take note of the proper use of Log Gap Caps and Energy Seal. We get a lot of questions about the best method to seal around windows and doors. We have a quick reference Tech Tips article here, but here are some pictures to illustrate how they work.
Lifeline Interior™ is a natural looking, transparent wood finish. It forms a breathable, protective layer for your walls and ceilings while highlighting the beauty and grain of the wood. Our unique breathable formula allows natural wood moisture to escape from the wood, yet provides a tough film surface that can easily be cleaned and dusted, especially when top coated with our Lifeline Acrylic Gloss or Satin clear finish.
If you use one of our Lifeline Interior color stains, the colorants in the finish help stabilize color of the wood and slow down, or even prevent, the fading that you may notice when removing pictures or furniture from against the wall. If using Lifeline Interior Clear, we recommend the addition of UV Boost to the first coat to help prevent this “picture frame” effect due to UV light exposure. The addition of UV Boost should also be considered when using lightly tinted stains like Light Honey and Light Natural. Since interior surfaces are not subjected to the adverse effects of weather, two coats of Lifeline Interior are not necessary. However, you can apply multiple coats of Lifeline Interior in order to achieve the appearance you desire.
Lifeline Interior is easy to apply. It can be applied by brush, spray or pad. Lifeline Interior dries to the touch in as little as one hour and clean-up is easy- just use soap and water.
One of the best reasons to use Lifeline Interior is that it reduces the absorption of pet, fireplace, and cooking odors into the wood of the home.
Lifeline Interior resists yellowing and is non-flammable and virtually odorless. Like all of our premium finishes, it allows the natural look and beauty of all species of wood to come through. Lifeline Interior can be used on new or existing log homes, as long as the surfaces are clean and dry.
Now you can order Lifeline Interior in any color you desire in addition to our 13 standard colors plus Clear. For a custom color or color matching, please call 1-800-548-3554. You can request wet samples to try on your logs by calling 1-800-548-3554 or by visiting our online store.