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How to Prepare New Construction Log Surfaces for Finishing
New logs may look clean and fresh to you, but it doesn’t mean that they are ready to stain. There is some preparation involved in getting new logs ready for finishing.
Logs that have been exposed to the sun may have slight gray areas on them and dirt, dust and mold spores are probably on most of the logs. It is important to start with a clean, uniform surface before applying a coat of stain, since dirt and discolorations will show through semi-transparent stains and the stain will seal in any blemishes. Cleaning also opens up the pores of the wood, allowing better adhesion of the stain. This is especially true if there is a mill glaze present on the logs. Not only will the mill glaze reduce the stain’s performance, but caulks and chinking will have a difficult time adhering to mill glazed wood.
Aggressive cleaning of a new log or timber home is not required. A light cleaning with Log Wash and a pressure washer will usually remove the dirt and mill glaze, as well as clean the surface to prevent the formation of mold under the stain. If the new logs have started to gray from sitting unprotected in the sun, a percarbonate cleaner like Wood ReNew will restore the wood back to its original color. Log Wash and Wood ReNew are much safer products to use compared to bleach solutions which destroy wood fibers.
The leading cause of stain adhesion failures and discolorations appearing under the semi-transparent stains is inadequate rinsing of a bleach-cleaned surface. Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) solutions are alkaline (high pH). Wood, on the other hand, is slightly acidic (low pH). Whenever low pH materials are exposed to high pH solutions, chemical reactions occur. Often these chemical reactions are minor and do not affect either material, but in the case of wood, exposure to bleach solutions may result in several irreversible reactions that may not become apparent for several months. Once the wood fibers are damaged or destroyed, a stain will not properly adhere to the surface and eventually will chip or peel. Even when used at a low concentration, a bit of bleach residue left of the wood will eventually result in discolorations due to iron tannates coming to the surface under the stain.
Occasionally, steel straps used to bundle the logs during transportation will leave iron stains that need to be removed with OXcon oxalic acid. Whenever oxalic acid is used, be sure to clean the entire wall to avoid blotches and streaks.
We never suggest media blasting new construction, but if that is what your log home manufacturer recommends, be sure to use a fine grit media to avoid damaging the surface of the wood.
Congratulations on your new home and happy cleaning!
One of the key bits of information for keeping hardwood floors shiny is knowing what type of finish has been applied to the wood. Was your hardwood sealed with a polyurethane or polyacrylic urethane finish, or was it finished with a paste wax? If you don’t know, here’s a test to help you make the best cleaning choices:
- In a spot with normal foot traffic, place a drop of water on the floor. If the water is quickly absorbed or causes spotting on the finish, this indicates the hardwood has not been sealed and should never be cleaned with water. But if the bead of water just sits on the surface without being absorbed, it means the hardwood floor has been sealed.
- To test for a paste wax finish, grab some fine steel wool and rub it lightly over the floor in a corner. If the floor has been waxed, there will be a gray, waxy film left on the steel wool.
How to Clean Hardwood Floors and Make Them Shine
Unless you have neglected the floors for weeks and have mud and sticky messes everywhere, there is no need to damp mop more than four times per year, suggest experts from The Spruce.
With a lightly dampened microfiber mop, clean in the direction of the wood grain. Never use a sopping-wet mop because too much water can cause floors – even sealed floors – to buckle. For step-by-step instructions, follow these steps from Spruce.
How to Refinish Hardwood Floors?
Up until about 20 years ago, the “Swedish Finish” was the only way to go. Extremely high-performance, it worked well, but as a solvent-based product, it was highly caustic. Certainly not a do-it-yourself project, it required trained professionals and total evacuation for up to a week (including the houseplants!)
Sure Shine offers all that original wearability, durability and beautiful shine, without the toxic fumes and disruption to your life. Instead of solvent-based, it uses a water-based technology that is both environmentally and user-friendly.
If you want a deep, clear finish using fewer coats, Sure Shine premium finish is the one to use!
Sure Shine can be used to re-coat older oil-based floor finishes. Sure Shine cures to a smooth, hard surface that resists scuffing and abrasion. It prevents discolorations from water and most household cleaners and chemicals.
How to Apply Sure Shine Hardwood Floor Finish?
This product shines even brighter from an application standpoint. It’s easy to do yourself, and it dries so quickly (only one hour) you can apply it in one day. Sure Shine never yellows, is non-flammable and there are no fumes, which means there is no reason to suffer the inconvenience of vacating your home. Cleaning up your tools is a simple matter of a little soap and water. And when the work is done, you can walk on your new floor finish in 8 short hours!
More on application of Sure Shine here.
Order your free sample of Sure Shine in Satin or Gloss finish to try on your floor or your walls here.
Projects can be daunting if you have limited or no experience. You gain experience by doing, and getting expert advice when you need, whether it’s before the project, during, or after. Our customer service exists to help all log home owners get the best results using the best products for their log or timber home.
One recent homeowner project done by our customer Beth H. required removing the old finish and sealant, then restoring the home with Lifeline Ultra-2 Natural and Energy Seal in Cedar. Lifeline Advance Gloss topcoat encapsulated the wood, ensuring a long-lasting finish and great look.
| Products Used | |
| Log Wash | Log gap caps |
| Prelude | 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″ backer rod |
| Lifeline Ultra-2 – Natural | Lifeline Advance Gloss |
| Energy Seal – Cedar |
With DIY-friendly products, anyone can tackle a home project and have fantastic looking results like this. In addition to our excellent customer service available to all customers, we have a library of Tech Tips for in-depth information on maintaining your log home.
Take a look at these pictures from Beth, showing the home before and after.
Take note of the proper use of Log Gap Caps and Energy Seal. We get a lot of questions about the best method to seal around windows and doors. We have a quick reference Tech Tips article here, but here are some pictures to illustrate how they work.
Lifeline Interior™ is a natural looking, transparent wood finish. It forms a breathable, protective layer for your walls and ceilings while highlighting the beauty and grain of the wood. Our unique breathable formula allows natural wood moisture to escape from the wood, yet provides a tough film surface that can easily be cleaned and dusted, especially when top coated with our Lifeline Acrylic Gloss or Satin clear finish.
If you use one of our Lifeline Interior color stains, the colorants in the finish help stabilize color of the wood and slow down, or even prevent, the fading that you may notice when removing pictures or furniture from against the wall. If using Lifeline Interior Clear, we recommend the addition of UV Boost to the first coat to help prevent this “picture frame” effect due to UV light exposure. The addition of UV Boost should also be considered when using lightly tinted stains like Light Honey and Light Natural. Since interior surfaces are not subjected to the adverse effects of weather, two coats of Lifeline Interior are not necessary. However, you can apply multiple coats of Lifeline Interior in order to achieve the appearance you desire.
Lifeline Interior is easy to apply. It can be applied by brush, spray or pad. Lifeline Interior dries to the touch in as little as one hour and clean-up is easy- just use soap and water.
One of the best reasons to use Lifeline Interior is that it reduces the absorption of pet, fireplace, and cooking odors into the wood of the home.
Lifeline Interior resists yellowing and is non-flammable and virtually odorless. Like all of our premium finishes, it allows the natural look and beauty of all species of wood to come through. Lifeline Interior can be used on new or existing log homes, as long as the surfaces are clean and dry.
Now you can order Lifeline Interior in any color you desire in addition to our 13 standard colors plus Clear. For a custom color or color matching, please call 1-800-548-3554. You can request wet samples to try on your logs by calling 1-800-548-3554 or by visiting our online store.
Every homeowner has found checks in the logs at one time or another. Checks are those longitudinal splits that appear as logs lose their moisture. While you may like or dislike checks, they are a part of the character of wood. Some species of wood are more susceptible to checking than others. This susceptibility comes from the different rate at which wood shrinks in its own geometry. Because wood dries out from the surface, the wood at the surface shrinks faster than the wood further down in the core.
Additionally, researchers have found that wood shrinks faster in the tangent direction (around the perimeter) than it does radial direction (toward the center). The ratio between these shrinkage rates tells you which species of wood are more likely to check. The greater the ratio the more the wood is likely to check as the logs dry.
Late summer or early fall is the best time to seal up your checks.
Should you always seal up checks?
The answer is partly a matter of practicality. If your checks are protected from any source of water or the opening is downward and they do not allow air drafts to enter the interior of the house, then it is really not necessary to seal them up. However, if the checks face upward to that they can collect blown rainwater, then weather conditions can introduce water into the heart of your logs – a very undesirable condition that can result in wood rot in the log.
What should you use to seal up checks and how do you do it?
Because seasonal weather variation cause checks to open and close slightly, you must use material that tolerates the movement. By the way, this movement is reduced when you have a good water-repellent and flexible coating on your logs such as Lifeline stain and Advance topcoat.
When you are sealing checks up, do not fill the check completely up with the sealant. On wider checks you should able to push some backer rod into the check so that you have about ¼ inch depth remaining for your sealant.
How big should the checks be before you seal them?
Ideally, you would seal all upward facing, weather-exposed checks. However, checks get small enough that it is very difficult to apply a sealant to them. Seal whatever you can, but don’t try to fill hairline checks. We always advise filling side facing or upward facing checks that go into windows or doors to prevent water intrusions into the frames. Spiral checks that twist into the interior of the house should also be sealed up.
What do you use for sealing up your checks?
Regular caulking is generally not a good choice to seal checks. Our Check Mate 2 specifically developed for this purpose. It is colored to match our exterior stains and available in tubes to make an application easy.
Even though Check Mate 2 is our preferred sealer, some customers use Energy Seal for the purpose. When you are sealing checks, use a line of masking tape along the edge of the check to keep the sealer off the surface of the log. This works whether or not you already have stained the logs.
If the wood within the check is dump from cleaning, rain or borate treatment (it is important to treat an existing check with Shell-Guard RTU before sealing it), make sure the check has time to dry before applying Check Mate 2.
Want to Learn More?
Watch our video that teaches how to seal checks here.
Remember to use a backer material to keep the sealant thickness between 1/4 and 3/8 inch along the check. Also, fill the check completely up and a little beyond the log surface to allow for some shrinkage for the sealant as it dries.
TOGETHER WE STAND AGAINST BUG INFESTATION
Shell-Guard RTU is your best choice for protecting larger logs and timbers, and eliminating existing bug infestations.
You will be happy to know that you don’t need to use water to apply borate treatment against wood decay and bug infestation. When it comes to treating a log home, the drier and more absorbent the surface is, the better the treatment will be. If you haven’t done it already, this could be your perfect interior project this winter.
Remember, the borates will not work when applied over any finish, as this prevents the product from penetrating. It works only on the bare wood.
WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT FROM APPLYING BORATES TO YOUR INTERIOR WOOD SURFACES?
Our Shell-Guard RTU Borate wood preservative comes in borate/glycol formulations. The active ingredient in Shell-Guard RTU is disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, chemically similar to a combination of boric acid and borax, but with higher concentration of boron which is responsible for the effectiveness.
The borate is toxic to fungi that cause rot and decay, subterranean and drywood termites, carpenter ants and wood boring beetles. It is also toxic to beetle eggs that may be in the wood at the time of treatment or eggs deposited sometime later.
Applying Shell-Guard RTU
An application of Shell-Guard RTU should end powder post beetle activity (small round holes) within a few months to a year after treatment. However, if there is an existing infestation of old house borers (oval holes), it may take time, sometimes a year before total control is achieved.
Shell-Guard RTU is best applied using a compressed air, garden-type sprayer. You can use either a fan or cone spray tip, it really does not matter as long as you completely wet the log surface with the solution.
The amount of time it takes Shell-Guard RTU to dry depends on the density and porosity of the wood, and temperature and humidity. In warm, dry temperatures the drying time may be as little as a few days. Under humid conditions it may take weeks of drying time before a stain can be applied. You can check to see how drying is progressing by touching the treated wood. If the wood still feels damp, it is not ready for a topcoat.
Once the Shell-Guard RTU has dried, you need to inspect all the treated surfaces before applying a stain. Occasionally a white residue may appear over knots and other areas of the logs. These white deposits are created by a small amount of the borate crystalizing on the surface. Their appearance does not mean that the treatment will not work! Wipe this residue off with a damp sponge. If you stain over any white spots they will show through the stain.
Unused solution should never be left in application equipment overnight. Clean and rinse your equipment after each use.
New Log Home? Apply Shell-Guard Now
If you just built a new home and the borate treatment was not included in the package from the manufacturer, Shell-Guard will be your cheapest insurance against wood decay and bug infestation. If the weather prevents from applying it outside, the interior application as effective as an exterior due to the penetrating properties of the Shell-Guard products.
And how toxic are borates? Here’s a chart comparing our borates to common household products:
More wood is replaced each year because of decay damage than all other factors combined! Commonly called rot, wood destroying fungi need three things to survive: air, water, and food. Since we can’t eliminate air and their food is the wood in our homes, the only mechanical control mechanism available to us is the elimination of water. Water is the enemy of wood! Although we’ve all heard the term “dry rot,” dry wood will not rot!
There are three basic categories of wood-destroying fungi: soft rot, brown rot and white rot. Soft rot fungi are typically found in wet wood showing the first signs of decay. Wood infected with soft rot can become quite soft and spongy. Other than the softness of the wood and perhaps discoloration of the surface, there may be no apparent signs of a soft rot infestation.
Brown rot fungi commonly attack softwoods like pine, spruce and fir thus turning the wood dark brown. In advanced stages of decay, wood attacked by brown rot becomes friable and splits appear across the grain giving the wood a “checkerboard” appearance. Infested wood may be structurally weakened in a relatively short period of time.
Once brown rot has extracted all of the nutrients from the wood, the wood may become dry and powdery. This gives the impression that dry wood has rotted (dry rot) but in reality it is the result of an old infestation of brown rot. One of the most destructive types of brown rot fungi is poria (meruliporia) incrassata, otherwise known as the water-conducting fungus. One indication of a poria infestation is the presence of rot in wood with no visible source of water. This type of fungus actually transports water through root-like structures known as rhizomorphs. Infestations of poria can progress quite rapidly destroying portions of flooring and wood members in a year or two. Thankfully, infestations of poria incrassata are fairly rare.
White rot fungi attack the cellulose and lignin in wood, eventually giving the wood an off-white appearance. In the later stages the wood may become spongy to the touch. Wood attacked by white rot lacks the cubical checking appearance of brown-rotted wood. Shelf fungi, bracket fungi, and mushrooms are all forms of white rot fungi.
Preventing Decay – 7 Rules
Moisture control should be an integral part of any program designed for preventing wood decay. The following 7 rules are a good place to start:
- Wood should never be in contact with the ground. Wood posts, piers, supports, etc. should rest on metal plates imbedded into concrete footers raised above the level of the surrounding soil.
- Basements should be waterproof and equipped with a floor drain. If the relative humidity in the basement exceeds 50%, a dehumidifier should be installed.
- Crawlspaces should be adequately ventilated with at least one square foot of free vent area for every 500 square feet of crawl space floor area along with a moisture barrier covering at least 80% of floor. One vent should be placed within three feet of each corner to prevent “dead air” spaces. In high humidity environments additional vents should be considered.
- Plumbing leaks should be repaired as soon as they are noticed.
- Rain gutters need to be clear of debris and roof leaks fixed.
- All exterior wood surfaces should be coated with a long lasting, water repellent finish system. This is especially important on log homes. Water-based, breathable film-formers like LIFELINE stains and topcoats work best since they allow water vapor to escape while preventing liquid water from penetrating into the wood. Log ends should be provided an extra measure of protection with Log End Seal.
- Upward facing checks should be sealed with Check Mate 2 to prevent water from entering the interior of the logs.
Borate Preservatives
There are four borate products designed for the control and prevention of decay fungi. Shell-Guard Concentrate and Shell-Guard® RTU are borate-glycol liquids that kill wood decay fungi and when properly applied to bare wood and protected with our finish system, provide permanent protection against decay.
Armor-Guard® is a pure borate powder that is dissolved in water and applied to the wood. Since it does not exhibit the depth of penetration of the Shell-Guard borate-glycol products, Armor-Guard should only be used to protect new, un-infested wood. Any time the surface is stripped of its finish, another application of Armor-Guard should be made.
Cobra™ Rods are two-inch-long, borate glass rods that can be used to spot treat decay prone areas such as log ends that are already coated with a finish. Once inserted into damp or wet wood, the borate/copper complex in Cobra Rods dissolves, spreading the active ingredients into areas surrounding the rod. Cobra Rods eliminate active decay fungi and help prevent rot for eight to ten years.
If you have any questions about controlling decay fungi or repairing decayed wood, give Perma-Chink Systems a call at 1-800-548-3554. We have number of products that are designed for repairing damaged wood and preventing future problems from occurring.
Log Home Restoration with Major Log Repair
When you look at these pictures, you probably think to yourself: how is it possible to repair these logs?
Chris Hastings, the second generation of log home restorers knew the answers. The major problem was in the design of the house. The house was designed improperly for the building site. The extensive damage on the lower third of the wall on the exposed side of the house was due to the insufficient overhangs and water damage.
What kind of work will bring this house back to life? The first step for this project is exterior media blasting, followed by log repairs, washing and brightening the exterior wood surface, applying borates to preserve the logs and interior and exterior chinking. Exterior visible water damage prompted Chris to cut away the outer half of this log which shows major water damage in the log’s core.
You can see how carpenter ants ( which are attracted to high moisture content in wood) have the ability to destroy logs in your log home, often in a short period of time, and in this case, causing major structural damage. Prevention of water intrusion by using a high quality log home finish (Lifeline Ultra with Lifeline Advance) and sealants (Perma-Chink and/or Check Mate 2) would have helped eliminate this costly problem.
Following the use of the finish removal system, that stripped off previously applied paint and UV discoloration, you can see (below) how a treatment of Oxcon further brightens the logs without damaging wood fibers. Following a rinsing of the logs with water, your home is now ready for the borate treatment with Shell-Guard.
After a borate treatment with Shell-Guard was completed, M-Balm was injected (squeeze bottle) within the log cavity. M-Balm not only hardens the wood, but also stops any further spreading of wood rot. Following the treatment of Shell-Guard and Oxcon to brighten the wood, Chris installed one window to the left for better appearance of this home. Now that house is protected against wood-destroying insects, an application of stain and topcoat will not only enhance your home’s aesthetic appeal, but will offer protection as well.
The transparent stain will protect your wood from the damaging effects of UV exposure. We recommend one coat of Lifeline Advance (clear coat finish, similar technology used in the automobile industry) over the stain color for protection and extending the life of the pigments in the stain. It also will give a maximum protection against water penetration.
The repair of water-damaged log ends will bring us to the final step: applying Perma-Chink between all logs to further protect against air and water intrusion. Prior to the last step of chinking the featured structure, Chris Hastings and his crew replace the outer half of the structurally damaged lower log with a fresh, sound log section.
The final step in the restoration process is to chink all seams (both vertical and horizontal). Perma-Chink chinking that permanently bonds to wood will retain its elastic features in all climates and will provide year round energy efficient comfort.
By Jared Turner
Folks have been trapped inside their homes for lengthy periods of time this winter. Whether it was to escape the cold or shelter from Covid, you are ready for a change. So, as you emerge from your long winter hibernation, take time to stretch, rub the sleepy out of your eyes and put the coffee on. Once you have all of that out of the way, it is time to open your door to Spring and consider the benefits of Forest Living.
For most folks, exposure to forests and trees has wonderful health benefits. For example, both of my parents happen to live in a densely populated urban area. However, each spring and fall they take the time to travel hundreds of miles to dive deep into the forests of Appalachia. They, as well as millions of others, have found these trips to be beneficial to their overall health and wellbeing.
So, what is it about the forests that make them so wonderful for our health? In recent years there is evidence that link people’s exposure to forest with a strengthened immune system, lower blood pressure, reduced stress, improved mood, increased energy level and improved sleep. What is not to like about this list? I believe many of us would be thrilled with improvements in these areas.
Are there other benefits that forests bring to our lives? Absolutely! They help to remove harmful pollution from our air by behaving like giant environmental filters removing harmful toxins from the air we breathe. In addition, forested watersheds provide quality drinking water for over 180 million Americans. Not only do trees filter through the air they also filter through the ground. With temperatures on the rise in most places, forests also help to lower air temperatures by 20-45 ֯F. The evaporation of water from trees has a wonderful cooling influence! Trees absorb carbon dioxide, a harmful greenhouse gas, and store it as carbon while releasing beneficial oxygen back into the air. In addition, trees, properly placed around your home, can help reduce your energy consumption by lowering the cost to cool your home. Finally, trees provide a wildlife habitat for animals to live and thrive.
Densely populated urban areas are just now catching on to all these benefits and are working hard to transform their cities by planting more trees and providing more green space for their citizens. They rightly understand that this approach is part of a more sustainable future. However, living this close to nature does bring with it challenges. At Perma-Chink Systems® we have been helping homeowners live in harmony with nature for over 40 years and as more folks transition to Forest Living, they are going to need a partner who knows how to integrate the two successfully.
Perma-Chink Systems happens to be a one-stop shop for forest living. We supply knowledge, experience, and quality products to help meet the needs of homeowners living in the forest. For example, with spring comes trees blooming and plants flowering, bringing with it pollen and dust. All this dirt, dust and pollen collecting on your home creates challenges for the longevity of your finish system. Once or twice a year we recommend giving your home a good washing. To help with this need we have developed Log Wash™, a highly effective, low pH cleaner designed not to damage your logs or your finish. By removing these contaminates, it will cut down on mold growth and damage caused by absorption of water and sunlight on your finish.
Spring is also a wonderful time to conduct an inspection of your home. Look for damage that needs repaired, cracks or openings that need to be sealed, and observe the overall condition of your finish system. Depending on what you discover, Perma-Chink Systems has products designed to solve most of your needs. We at PCS are actively helping to transition folks to a healthier way of life through a more sustainable Forest Living lifestyle. Please take some time to visit our website for more information.
Just as clear coats are vital to the performance of today’s automotive finishes our Advance Topcoats are an integral part of all of our exterior finish systems.
Not only do they extend the life of the color coats but they do much more. They significantly improve the look of the finish by enhancing the color, clarity and depth of the finish. In other words, they make our finishes the most beautiful log home finishes in the world. Second, they help keep the surface clean. The very nature of a pigmented stain makes it susceptible to dirt pick-up through adhesion or impregnation.
Since we have designed Advance to form a smooth, strong film it makes it much more resistant to dirt. In addition, the smooth surface makes it easy to clean off any dust or pollen that may accumulate on the surface of the logs. A simple wash down with Log Wash and a garden hose will remove the dirt and grime that may be hiding the beauty of your home.
Another feature a smooth topcoat provides is greater resistance to the growth of mold, mildew and algae. In addition to water these organisms need something to grip onto. If the spores land on a tough smooth surface that rapidly sheds water they won’t have an opportunity to germinate and spread. So the surface of your logs stays free of unsightly mold spots and patches of algae.
Of course the best feature of Advance Topcoat is the protection it provides to the color containing stain. Years ago cars left the manufacturer with a coat of paint. More expensive cars may have had several coats of paint but no matter how many coats were applied after a few years on the road the paint turned dull and started to flake off. Then car coating experts discovered the benefits imparted by clear topcoats. Today’s car finishes remain shiny and last longer than ever thought possible all due to the application of clear topcoats.
What is it about topcoats that contributes to this improvement? The most performance enhancing feature of a clear topcoat is that it reflects sunlight. Sunlight is composed of several components including ultraviolet (UV) light. It’s the UV that is responsible for fading colors and, in the case of wood homes, damaging wood fibers through a process called photo-oxidation. The more UV light that’s reflected off the surface the slower the color coats will fade and the less the wood fibers will be exposed to photo-oxidation thus extending the life of the entire finish system. Although satin finishes reflect a significant amount of sunlight, gloss topcoats reflect more which is why car finishes are shiny and not dull. The same holds true for our Lifeline exterior finish systems. Advance Satin does reflect much of the sunlight but Advance Gloss reflects even more, which is one of the reasons that log home gloss finishes are becoming more popular.
An additional beneficial feature of a clear topcoat is the protection it provides to the color coats against degradation by airborne contaminates like sulfur dioxide, ozone and particulates. Even natural contaminates like tree pollen and bird droppings can damage or discolor the color coats by chemical reactions or supporting mold growth. Our Advance Topcoats provide a barrier that prevents this from occurring.
Start Saving on Your Heating Bills Now!
Energy Seal is a textured acrylic polymer sealant that provides a long-lasting and resilient seal for any style of log home. Since logs constantly twist, turn, swell, expand and shrink, gaps may appear between logs or between the logs and window and door frames or other areas of the home. These gaps retain moisture and allow the seepage of air and water into the home. Energy Seal eliminates these gaps by forming an air and water tight barrier over them.
So why do people use textured sealant Energy Seal?
First and foremost, to keep water, air and bugs out of places where they don’t belong; second, for its attractive appearance; and third, for the reputation of lasting longer and performing better than competitive products. It should not come as a surprise that log homes are a bit difficult to seal up. When you stack logs on top of one another to make a wall, the logs do not naturally fit tightly to one another so there are usually gaps that must be sealed to prevent air and water from getting inside. That’s what Energy Seal is designed to do.
Most people call log sealants “caulk” but we try to refer to them as “sealants” to help differentiate high quality products from cheap caulks that can be bought at any hardware store. Plus, several of our sealants do not fit the conception most people have of a typical caulk.
There are two reasons that Energy Seal is textured. First, it allows the surface of cured Energy Seal to remain looking “flat.” It does not have that shiny look common to most types of caulk. This allows Energy Seal to blend in with the surrounding stained wood. Second, the texture allows Energy Seal to better accept a stain so that it can virtually disappear on a wall.
Here is a TIP; if you plan to stain over Energy Seal, select an Energy Seal color that’s just a bit lighter than the stain you plan to use. It’s much easier to cover light-colored Energy Seal with a darker color stain than it is to cover dark-colored Energy Seal with a light-colored stain.
Applying Energy Seal
Before Energy Seal is applied, the surface must be clean, dry, and free of oil, wax, or anything else that will interfere with the adhesion of the Energy Seal.
Wherever possible, Energy Seal should be used along with Backer Rod or Grip Strip. If backing material is not used, there may not be enough room for the Energy Seal to expand and a crack may appear across the joint. Backer Rod should be used even if the joint is narrow. The width of the band of Energy Seal may end up a bit wider than you expected but the integrity of the seal will be maintained.
Applying Energy Seal over old caulk is never a good idea even if it looks like the caulk is still adhering to the wood.
Although it can be time consuming and somewhat difficult, old caulk should be removed for several reasons. If a caulk no longer adheres to the wood, it may be due to moisture getting under the caulk creating rot. The old caulk must be removed to properly treat and seal the wood, so the new sealant does not fail.
Once in place, Energy Seal may be tooled smooth with a trowel or putty knife. Spraying a light mist of water on the surface will make tooling a lot easier and will result in a smoother surface.
If masking tape is used to protect the surrounding wood be sure to remove the tape while the Energy Seal is still wet.
To protect recently applied Energy Seal from the weather, a loose covering of plastic film will prevent it from being washed out of the joint until it cures enough to withstand a heavy rain. Typically, a week or so is sufficient.
For more information about Energy Seal, give us a call 1-800-548-3554 or check out our Log Home Sealant Application Guide https://www.permachink.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/sealants_guide-1.pdf
HOW TO SEAL AROUND WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES
We have an excellent tutorial on sealing around windows and doors using Energy Seal and Log Gap Caps. Read it here: https://www.permachink.com/resources/log-gap-cap-and-energy-seal-to-seal-windows-and-doors
During the winter months it’s important to be aware of the freeze-thaw stability of Perma-Chink’s products. The reason may involve shipping conditions or whether it is okay to store a product or products in an unheated shed. In any case you need to be aware of the consequences of allowing any of our products to freeze.
Without a doubt it is always best to prevent any of our finishes and sealants from freezing. They all contain water and the formation of ice crystals within the products can separate the water from the other components. In some products once this occurs it becomes impossible to regain the properties of the original formulation even after thawing and vigorous mixing. These types of products are not freeze-thaw stable.
With a few exceptions most of our products are freeze-thaw stable, however, if a product becomes frozen it needs to be thawed slowly, preferably at room temperature. Speeding up the thawing process by heating the container can seriously damage the product making it unusable. If the product is in pails or containers, once it has completely thawed it will require a thorough mixing.
If a product is subjected to multiple freeze-thaw cycles each cycle will contribute to the degradation process until it is no longer suitable for use. If a product becomes frozen it is better to allow it to stay frozen than it is to bring it inside to thaw and then store it where it may freeze again. It’s the succession of freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw sequences that really destroys the integrity of a product. Before applying any product that’s been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.
To reiterate:
- It’s best to protect all of our products from freezing.
- If it does get frozen, thaw it slowly at room temperature then thoroughly mix it.
- It’s better to keep it frozen than to subject it to multiple freeze-thaw cycles.
- Before applying any product that’s been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.
Perma-Chink Systems’ products that are NOT freeze-thaw stable:
- Chink Paint™ Textured & Smooth
- Log End Seal™
- Oxcon™
- StripIt
Perma-Chink Systems’ products that have limited freeze-thaw stability (5 cycles):
For information about cold weather storage of Shell-Guard® and Shell-Guard® RTU see “Storing Borate Solutions.”