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Protecting wood surfaces in a beach or water front environment is a challenging task. You are faced with numerous variables that contribute to erosion and degradation of the substrate including sunlight, wind, moisture, salt, and sand. The two most destructive environmental variables to an exterior coating system and wood are sunlight and water.
Sunlight is the major cause of damage to a number of materials, including plastics, textile, wood, coatings, and other organic materials. The type of damage, such as loss of gloss, chalking, elasticity, adhesion, and color change, varies depending on the material sensitivity and the spectrum of sunlight. Spectral sensitivity varies from material to material.
One component of sunlight is ultraviolet light, commonly referred to as UV. UV light is responsible for most damage to exposed wood because it changes or destroys the wood’s lignin, a component of wood that hardens and strengthens the cell walls. In more scientific terms this process is called photo-oxidation. The colorants contained in the color coats are responsible for absorbing UV light. The more colorant a finish contains the less UV light will get through to the wood itself.
Opaque finishes like paint and solid body stains are very efficient in blocking all of UV light from hitting the wood. That’s why when they peel off the freshly exposed wood may still look bright. On the other hand the objective of transparent stains is to allow the character of the wood to show through the finish.
In order to accomplish this transparency the pigment loading is significantly less than that contained in opaque finishes. Although some of the UV is blocked by the colorants, enough of it gets through to eventually photo-oxidize the wood. Since darker colors typically contain more colorant than lighter ones they tend to last longer. However, some lighter colors that contain titanium white, or KX colorant, also contain a high colorant loading which extends their life but they do give up some degree of transparency in return.
Lighter colored stains that contain titanium white (KX) will also absorb less heat; therefore, there will be less overall stress (day surface temperature versus night surface temperature) that the finish system and wood substrate is exposed to over the course of a 24-hour period.
Squared logs, timbers, and vertical flat siding are easier to maintain since the sun hits these wood pieces at the same angle and the UV light is evenly distributed over the entire surface. In addition, the flat vertical surfaces cannot accumulate snow and ice and even upward facing checks are not as prone to rainwater entering the logs. Squared wood pieces are subject to the same weathering parameters as round surfaces, but the weathering is mostly uniform over the entire exposed surface.
The second challenging variable for wood in a coastal environment is moisture. Coastal areas are notorious for their high relative humidity and pop-up thunderstorms. Keeping wood dry is the goal to protecting its long term integrity. If wood remains wet for long periods of time without drying out, conditions are favorable for the formation of wood decay fungi, the precursor to wood rot. Four conditions are necessary for the development of wood decay producing fungi. Eliminate any one of these and decay fungi cannot survive: oxygen, temperature (40° – 90°F), moisture content in excess of the fiber saturation point (> 25-30%), and a suitable source of energy and nutrients (that is, the wood).
Recommendations:
- There are two basic ways to combat the effects of weathering. By far the most effective method is to keep wood surfaces in the shade as much as possible by extending roof overhangs or constructing roofed porches around the home.
- Keep all vegetation at least 24 inches away from wood surfaces to allow for adequate ventilation and drying out of these surfaces.
- Clean the wood surfaces to remove all foreign materials from the wood prior to the application of an exterior finish system. The overall performance of even the best finish system is dependent upon proper surface preparation and application technique.
- Select and apply a highly durable exterior semi-transparent stain, like Lifeline™ Ultra-7 or Ultra-2 to protect the wood and enjoy the beauty of the wood grain. Select Lifeline™ Accents to highlight wood timbers and trim if more opacity is desired.
- Select a color that contains shades of brown, red, or gray. Consider colors that contain titanium white (KX) for lower surface temperature swings as well as good UV protection. (colors: Butternut, Wheat, Driftwood, Stone Gray or Gentry Gray).
- Apply an exterior clear topcoat, like Lifeline™ Advance Gloss or Satin, to protect the color coat and add additional UV and mold and mildew protection. Consider the Gloss for additional reflection of UV light.
- Fill all upward facing checks, cracks in wood, with a specialized acrylic sealant, like Check Mate 2™
- Clean the finish systems at least once a year with Log Wash™, a liquid concentrate for bare wood and maintenance cleaning, to remove all foreign debris for the surface of the finish system and extend its longevity.
- Perform an annual inspection of the coating system as a proactive maintenance approach.
- Darkening of the wood or finish when water is applied, is an indication of water getting through the coating and wetting the wood
- Checks or micro-fissures in the wood, especially upward-facing
- Cracks in the finish
- Color fading
- Pay close attention to the south- and west-facing surfaces
- Keep metal surface clean and freshly painted. Salt spray is highly corrosive.
You can’t completely stop or reverse the weathering of exterior wood, but you can slow the process dramatically by using the right type of finish system and a proactive game plan to combat the environmental elements.
How about EuroPlast?
Looking for just the right compliment to enhance the interior walls of your dream home? Consider the ageless appeal of Venetian plaster. For centuries architects, designers, builders, and owners alike have marveled at the splendor of this highly popular form of wall surfacing, and throughout the ages the artisans who were skilled at creating such beauty have been revered and sought after. With today’s advanced technology, you can now have this distinctive elegance and appeal at a fraction of the cost- in as little as two days.
EuroPlast and Euroseal by Stuc-O-Flex International
Consider this revolutionary approach to dramatic design. EuroPlast is a pre-colored, acrylic polymer-based interior and exterior coating system that transforms vertical walls into a classic example of old world Venetian-style plaster. This versatile decorative coating exhibits a rich aesthetic appearance with an unlimited selection of color and texture opportunities. Achieve a wide range of effects from rustic plaster to smooth polished limestone.
EuroPlast is a decorative finish providing color, texture and hard durable surface that resists staining, dirt pick-up, and abuse. Applications easily go over interior and exterior surfaces including stucco, concrete, brick, block, plaster, cement-board sheathings- even primed drywall for interior applications.
Euroseal is a pure acrylic sealer that is applied over the EuroPlast finish. Euroseal has a unique ability to transform newly constructed walls into a classic example of centuries-old plaster. This semi-transparent sealer is formulated to obtain an uneven antiqued, or “mottled,” appearance. Euroseal is available in clear or in an unlimited selection of semi-transparent colors. The material can provide a high level of gloss or an eggshell appearance, depending on your design requirements. Euroseal colors are available in pre-tinted containers, ready to apply. The product is intended to create an old world or weathered look while adding a striking characteristic to completed walls.
If this unique product might be that one element to compliment and enhance the beauty of your dream home contact Stuc-O-Flex International, Inc @ 1-800-305-1045 or e-mail: techservice@stucoflex.com
So how do our Communication and Distribution Systems work and how are they different from other suppliers?
Communication
Our Communication System is a nationwide VOIP Internet-based system. That means that each of our Branches and our Knoxville, Tennessee Factory are connected 24/7 like a large office – but the office is nationwide. Answering calls, forwarding calls, etc., happen nationwide the same way as a direct call to a local office are.
That means that every office and every sales desk is connected with a simple stroke of a keyboard. In addition, our Call Forwarding capability automatically connects an incoming call anywhere in the nation. Yes, at times you may be connected with a Customer Service Representative other than the one you typically talk to, BUT – the CSR that does answer the call has your entire order history on the screen in front of them immediately. That is thanks to our second system, which is an online database.
Each time an order is placed, whether it be from a new Retail Customer, or an existing Applicator, Dealer, or Manufacturer, the order is entered in real time into our Accounting Database. That database is immediately updated with any new Customer data – purchased products, colors, quantities, shipping addresses, etc. That means that any order that customer has ever made is instantly available on the screen, and we can tell them anything the customer has ever ordered (for example: I bought Lifeline Ultra-7 for a project 8 years ago and I forgot the color and now I need some touch up and additional for a garage, and by the way, that was for the Rutherford house in Pigeon Forge, not the Pinkerton house in North Carolina). We can tell you in real time what stain was used, what color, how much was purchased, when it was purchased, and where it was sent to. Every CSR in the company has that information, for every customer, on the screen in front of them as soon as the call is answered. Then, if the customer would like to talk to a particular individual (my ‘favorite’ salesperson), we can use the same network to send a notification to that CSR to call you back or attach any particular notifications for the order.
Because of the time difference from the East Coast to the West Coast, this system is available from 8:00 AM Eastern Time until 5:00 PM Pacific Time. That means that a call placed at say, 8:00 PM, on the East Coast will be answered by a salesperson in Redmond, WA that has your Customer History and can take the order or answer any question. That also says that you can make a call at 5:00 AM in Washington State and place an order with a CSR in Tennessee. That is a tremendous advantage for a Contractor who needs to place an order before normal business opening times, or after normal business hours. Remember, it doesn’t make any difference who answers the phone or where they happen to be – they have your Customer History on the screen in front of them and can take the order, handle shipping, and answer any questions you might have – and make the order at your particular price level.
Distribution
If you can’t get the product when you need it, it’s all for naught. If you are an Applicator, Manufacturer, or a Homeowner, you all need the product available at a particular time. Products that arrive a day or two late, or a week late, cause havoc with application crew scheduling or weather changes, and can reverberate through the season if early season jobs are late and will negatively impact schedules.
Our Manufacturing Plant is in Knoxville Tennessee, centrally located in the heart of the Log Home Industry. It is also located at the intersection of the major North/South and East/West highways. It’s no coincidence our factory is in that location! We of course have massive ‘Whole House’ inventories (products for an entire home project), but that location also feeds seven fully-stocked Whole House Company-owned Branches. Each one of those Branches is stocked with a Whole House inventory. Not one or two ‘Overage or Sample’ inventory. Additionally, each Branch location can make any custom stain color you desire and also stocks inventory for a number of Independent Distributors.
The point here is that we are located at strategic locations across the USA and are well-stocked to handle anything from multiple Whole House orders to samples and anything in between. These locations disburse our inventory so that we can fulfill orders from a number of large stocking locations that are close to you, our customers. We are not dependent on large inventory shipments or Whole House shipments arriving from one location. This drastically lowers shipping time and expense.
In addition, each of our seven Branches is staffed with a minimum of three experienced Log Home Specialists. Larger Branches have five and up to eight Inside Customer Care Specialists. No matter when or who you call, be assured you’ll be connected with Industry Experts that can help you get the right product at the right time.
Wayne Bell
Log Home Care Online
Have you ever wished that you could live in a log home but you’re stuck living in conventional housing? If so, join the growing number of people tackling home improvement projects to create a space that has the “feel” of log home living within the limitations of your current home.
Our project was to convert a roughly 30’x50′ unfinished basement in a contemporary suburban neighborhood into a space that would capture the tranquility of a northwoods lodge. Many of the design and construction techniques we used could just as easily be applied to any interior room, log home basement, or other living space. And best of all, most of the skills required are within the reach of the average handyman, so you can add significant value to your home with only a modest financial investment.
This space needed to harmonize with a contemporary home, so we used a mixture of log siding and drywall in the design.
We included a central fireplace as a gathering point for visitors, kitchen/bar area for entertaining, home theater, game room, guest bathroom and storage areas. To maintain the theme, we used natural materials wherever possible. We sketched out the space and made note of existing features (like the stairs, duct work, support beams and posts) so we could accommodate them in our design.
We’ve seen basement conversions that didn’t address the storage issue and that is a mistake so we framed in the corner that housed the furnace and other utilities to create a generous storage room.
Visitors are impressed with the functionality and attractiveness of the previously unused space. The extensive use of standard construction techniques allow for homeowner participation in the building process, and the use of log siding and natural materials provide for a dramatic effect. When it came to selecting the sealant and finish materials, we chose the same supplier that we have used to professionally finish hundreds of homes: Perma-Chink Systems.
It’s always fun to admire beautiful designs in log home publications, but with some creativity you, too, can enjoy the feeling of a log home wherever you live.
About the Author
Wayne Bell is a log home refinishing, repair and restoration contractor, serving the Midwest and southern United States from his base in Ohio. If you have questions about the materials or processes used in this project, you can contact him at 937-657-4565 or at www.LogHomeCareOnline.com.
From Worst to First With Perma-Chink!
By John & Elaine Judsky
Suches, GA
Perma-Chink Customers Forever
I’ll admit the hard truth. I neglected the exterior of our log cabin in the North Georgia mountains. For years. It was ugly, and we needed restoration.
We had used Perma-Chink products on the interior of our new cabin back in 1999, with Sure Shine on our floors and the Lifeline Interior on our walls. They are holding up well and looking good after 16 years.
But the exterior was a mess from our neglect and from using an inferior product. We used the product recommended and provided by our log manufacturer. It shall remain nameless here because it was an oil-based jug of junk.
This past summer I finally had the time and money to redo the exterior, and there was no question in my mind I was going to use Perma-Chink products. We attended a workshop in Knoxville and learned lots of good tips and info. The logs looked dirty, faded and had no water resistance. I went ahead and sanded the few spots that needed that much care. The S100 finish remover did a great job removing what was left of the old finish. The Wood ReNew made the logs fresh and bright again. Then the Log Wash prepared a good surface for the application of Armor-Guard preservative followed by two coats of the Lifeline Ultra-2, followed by the Lifeline Advance Gloss.
I also used Log End Seal for the logs & Woodsman for caulk touch-up. Our deck and porch floors were treated with Deck Defense. Every single product seemed high-quality and gave the advertised results. The water-based products are a dream to work with and clean-up is easy. All the products used together truly are a log home finishing ‘system’.
Now we have a home with a beautiful finish that looks brand new! My wife says that it looks like we are living inside a piece of fine furniture. The true beauty of the logs is shining through, we have a home we are once again proud of and we could not be more pleased. It was a lot of hard work, but the results are amazing.
I highly recommend Perma-Chink products to all those who want to preserve their logs and want a beautiful home. Their products are not inexpensive, but definitely worth every penny! If you do it yourself or hire it out, make sure you educate yourself on all the excellent how-to’s and advice on the website and make sure the directions are closely followed.
My final advice: You CANNOT go wrong with Perma-Chink.
Some DIY homeowners assume that hot weather simply means that the log finish freshly applied on their log home will dry faster. While this is true, there are circumstances when stained log surfaces dry too quickly. Once the finish is on the wall, it does not really matter if it gets hit by direct sunlight a few hours later. It’s the surface temperature during the application process that’s critical.
How Hot is Too Hot to Stain My Log Home and Deck?
A general rule of thumb is that stain can be applied when the outside temperature is between 40°- 90°F. However, temperature for application is based on the surface temperature of the logs, not the temperature of the air. For instance, a wall in the sun can be 10-25 degrees hotter than the surrounding air.
Can I Stain My Log Home in Direct Sunlight?
It’s best to avoid staining in direct sunlight, especially during the hot summer months. The heat causes the stain to dry out too quickly which prevents it from brushing out properly, resulting in brush marks, lap marks, and inadequate adhesion.
What Part of the Day is Best for Applying Finish to My Log Walls?
For exterior log walls, start as early in the morning as possible, after any dew has evaporated. As the sun rises and areas of the house become shaded, work around the house staining the shaded areas as the sun moves East to West.
What Happens When You Apply Stain to the Log Surface Hotter than 90 F?
- Water-based stains cure by the proper evaporation of water, leaving behind the pigments and protective coating. When water evaporates too rapidly, the ingredients/pigments will not disperse evenly for best adhesion.
- Brush marks and lap marks may occur, resulting in an uneven look of the finish.
- Uneven thickness of the stain coat on the surface will result in blotchy appearance.
Will Humidity Affect the Drying Process of the Stain on the Logs?
The best drying will occur when the relative humidity is 40% to 70%. The ideal temperature for staining is 70 degrees with humidity around 50%. To eliminate dew and condensation on logs that can create uneven sheen, allow approximately 2 hours for the coating to dry before sunset.
PRO Tips for Applying Stain to Log Homes in Hot Weather:
- Work or move around the house to avoid the sun as much as possible. Work in the shade when possible.
- You must keep a “wet edge” at all times. This means a lot of stain on the tools and working fast to avoid lap marks.
- Use heavy duty brushes that hold a lot of stain. Professionals typically use 4” high quality brushes. They are heavy and bulky when loaded with stain. Invest in quality brushes.
- Always “box” your stain and make sure it is completely mixed. Colors can slightly vary from one pail to the next. Use another bucket to mix gallons (like a 5 gallon bucket). Be mindful of the stain in your bucket and keep it closed when taking breaks.
- Buy a laser temperature measurement tool and monitor surface temperatures throughout the job.
- Avoid staining when humidity is extremely high or right after a heavy rainstorm. Stop working if temperatures exceed the limits.
- If in need of a professional help, visit our Find A Contractor tool and choose log home contractors near you.
By Lee Denman, Intensified Wood Restoration
There are essentially two types of log home stains available on the market today:
| Film-Forming FinishesOil-based (Alkyd) Log Home StainsLatex-based Log Home StainsAcrylic Latex-based Log Home StainsVarnishes for Log Homes | Penetrating FinishesOil-based Semi-transparent Log Home Stains |
What are the PROS and CONS of each of these types of log home finishes?
1. Oil Based (Alkyd) Log Home Stain
PROS: Wood grain visibility, UV Protection, Non Porous, Easy application, longer open times.
CONS: Trap Moisture, Brittle, Can’t Breathe, Weather Quickly, Coat build-up over time, Blistering occurs if moisture is present behind finish, High Maintenance.
2. Latex based Solid Color Log Home
PROS: Breathable, Flexible, Durable, High UV Protection, Porous, Easy application, Low maintenance, Long life, low odor.
CONS: Won’t prevent decay if conditions are favorable, Short Shelf Life.
3. Semi-Transparent Acrylic Latex based Log Home Stain
PROS: Breathable, Flexible, Durable, High UV Protection, Wood grain visibility, Porous, Low maintenance, Long life, low odor.
CONS: More difficult to apply than oil based stains and solid color stains, fast drying times.
4. Log Home Varnishes
PROS: Allow for natural look of logs.
CONS: High maintenance, prone to Cracking, Peeling and Blistering, Requires recoating every 1-2 years, Partial UV protection.
5. Oil based Semitransparent Log Home Stains
PROS: Penetrate into wood, Wood grain visibility, Breathable, High UV protection.
CONS: Perform best on rough sawn, weathered, or course textured wood. Compatibility issues with most log home sealants due to waxes found in most penetrating finishes. Don’t have a furniture grade finish look (dull), must apply second coat before first coat dries in order for stain to penetrate wood. Vapor barrier, non-breathable.
What types of log home stains work the best?
So we have all this helpful information on the types of log home stains but which log home stain is the best? It is hard to say which one is the absolute best because there are many factors that ultimately decide how well or long a log home stain will perform. Some of these factors are:
- What season the logs were cut (winter cut logs only)
- Proper surface preparation
- Environment surrounding building
- Moisture content of logs
Of all these factors none is more important than proper surface preparation of the logs before applying a log home stain. If the surface of the logs has not been prepped properly none of these log home stains will perform as they state they will. This is why it is important to only hire a qualified log home restoration expert to work on your log home! They will have the knowledge and expertise to work with the products available in the current log home market. This will ensure your investment is protected well into the future.
While we can’t say which log home stain is the overall best, we can recommend which type of log home finishes we feel perform exceptionally well and keep maintenance costs down throughout the years. This only holds true if proper surface preparation is kept in mind before and during any finish or sealant application. In our opinion, film-forming, latex based waterborne log home finishes such as Perma-Chink Systems’ Lifeline is best bang for your buck!
While Perma-Chink Systems finishes aren’t the cheapest out there they seem to require the least amount of maintenance based on our 25+ years of experience restoring log homes and log cabins of all sizes and shapes. They also offer an unmatched 5 year warranty on their log home stains when applied properly and maintained accordingly.
Lee Denman is the founder of Intensified Wood Restoration Company
Perma-Chink Systems Free Samples
Want to try Perma-Chink Systems products? Order free samples online here.
There are two kinds of wood – wood that is rotten, and wood that one day will be rotten. This statement may seem a bit extreme, but it is a fact. Wood is a product of nature and its nature is to return to the earth in a natural process. As professional log home contractors, it is our job to ensure that wood used in the construction of log homes lasts for many years.
Borates have been used to preserve wood for many years, and because people have lately become more concerned with the toxicity of products used in their homes, it has steadily grown in popularity. We will discuss the use of borates to preserve log homes in detail.
What are borates and how do they work?
Simply put borates or borax are naturally-occurring water-soluable salt-like acids. They are about as toxic as table salt to humans and pets but kill wood-consuming insects like termites, powder-post beetles, and old house borers. More importantly, it kills the wood destroying microorganisms that cause rot.
Rot in log or conventional homes causes hundreds of times more damage to homes every year than damage by insects.
For borates to be effective, they must be actually eaten by an organism. Borates are not effective against carpenter bees because they do not actually consume wood – they just chew it. Interestingly enough, consuming borates does not instantly kill termites or other wood destroying insects. It does however kill the bacteria in their digestive system. These bacteria actually help the insect digest the cellulose fibers that make up a piece of wood. Without these bacteria, the insects die of starvation. Funny how nature works.
Borates
Borax, also known as sodium borate, sodium tetraborate, or disodium tetraborate, is an important boron compound, a mineral, and a salt of boric acid. Powdered borax is white, consisting of soft colorless crystals that dissolve easily in water.
Borax is a component of many detergents, cosmetics, and enamel glazes. It is used to make buffer solutions in biochemistry, as a fire retardant, as an anti-fungal compound, in the manufacture of fiberglass, a texturing agent in cooking, as a precursor for other boron compounds, and along with its inverse, boric acid, is useful as an insecticide.
Types of Borates
Perma-Chink Systems markets four different forms of borates for the purpose of preserving wood. Armor Guard is sold as a powder that is mixed with water on-site and then sprayed onto wood. Shell Guard RTU comes pre-mixed and is Ready-To-Use. Shell Guard Concentrate contains the highest concentration of Borax with food-grade glycol added to deepen penetration into wood and must be mixed with additional water on-site. The Concentrate is usually used in extremely wet or rot-prone conditions or on active rot or insect infestations. Cobra-Rods are made from borax and copper which have been compressed and heated to form a glass-like rod of borax which is inserted into holes drilled in rot-prone areas like porch posts. Cobra Rods are so effective that they are now inserted into all new utility poles installed in the southern U.S. Please call us or visit www.permachink.com for more detailed preservative application information on the use of these products.
Armor-Guard®
Sold as a powder that is mixed with water on-site and then sprayed onto wood.
Shell-Guard® RTU
Comes pre-mixed and is Ready-To-Use.
Shell-Guard® Concentrate
Contains the highest concentration of Borax with food-grade glycol added to deepen wood penetration and must be mixed with additional water on-site. The Concentrate is usually used in extremely wet or rot-prone conditions, on active rot, or insect infestations.
Cobra-Rods®
Made from borax and copper, are compressed and heated to form a glass-like rod. The rods are inserted into holes drilled in rot-prone areas, like porch posts. Cobra Rods are so effective that they are now inserted into all new utility poles installed in the southern U.S.
When most homes are constructed, the logs are clean and smooth with very few checks, or cracks, in the logs. During the first few years, these checks open up, expand, and deepen. Many checks extend to the center of the log – much deeper than any topical application of borax can effectively reach. These exposed deep checks CAN and DO collect water. Over time, this will cause the log to rot. It is very important to include the application of borates into checks during any and all maintenance work done on a log home prior to a maintenance coat of stain, clear coat, or caulking.
Special and Unusual Applications
I have used borate treatments over the years in many other special and unusual applications that I will list below.
For antique log homes – Owners of antique log homes have spent a lot of money purchasing old logs, timbers, and siding because of their unique appearance. They love that silvery-gray rough texture inherent to old timbers. They are very reluctant to remove this look in order to properly apply a protective waterproof coating that would protect these logs from rot.
An alternative for this unique and growing segment of the market is to simply treat the exposed logs every year with borates. The treatment must be done every year because borates are water-soluable and rain will eventually leach the product out of the wood.
The borates will not change the color of the wood and it is almost impossible to over-apply.
For additional protection against insects inside new homes – During initial construction, spread powdered Armor-Guard into open stud wall cavities and on the floor where base cabinets are to be located. Then close up the stud walls and install the base cabinets. The borate powder will stay in those locations forever and kill all roaches and ants that come in contact with Armor-Guard.
Now, I told you earlier that insects must consume the product to be effective and that is true. Insects can crawl through the powder without being harmed. However, ants and roaches belong to a group of insects which constantly groom themselves to stay clean – or a clean as a roach or ant can be. To stay clean, they lick their legs and other body parts. When they do, they consume the borate and will die.
For log replacement projects – I highly recommend a thorough treatment of all replacement logs and log siding with liquid borates and Cobra Rods. The chances are that homeowners who have not maintained their homes in the past will probably neglect them in the future.
A more permanent treatment today will lower your liability in the future as a contractor. An even better plan would be to have replacement logs pressure-treated with borates. There are probably more companies that provide that service, but I do know that Appalachian Log Structures, Lok-N-Logs, and Sisson DuPont Carder will pressure-treat logs for use in log replacement. They all also produce many different log profiles. If I were to replace a log on a customer’s home that was pressure-treated, I would have no problem extending a lifetime warranty on that log – a good selling point for log home contractors.
For active infestations – I have successfully used borates against insects that are actively living in isolated spots on structures. In the pictures below, powder-post beetles infested barn wood on my porch. I injected Shell-Guard RTU into the actual holes using a syringe made for injecting marinade into food.
Any plastic syringe will work when held tightly against the hole to inject the liquid.
I treated these holes one afternoon and found them dead on my counter-top the next day. I may have simply drowned them, but that was a year ago and they have not returned.
The same type of method can be used in isolated areas of rot or termite damage using – believe it or not – a bulb-type turkey baster or cheap ketchup squirt bottle. Simply drill angled holes into the wood on the upper part of the log (you have to drill to get the product into the wood past the existing water-proof stain on most logs) and insert the bottle or baster full of borate solution into the hole and walk away for a couple of days. The liquid will slowly soak into the log and saturate a large section of log. If the product simply flows quickly into the log, then you will probably be facing a log that is too far gone and it may need to be re-faced or replaced. Once the product is deep in the log, it will soon kill the rot or termites.
I recommend Shell-Guard Concentrate for this procedure as it has the highest concentration of borates. Remove the delivery device and add a Cobra Rod as extra insurance and longevity.
For log railings – Log railings exposed to the weather are a maintenance nightmare. They are very difficult to maintain a stain coating on because they develop checks on the upper curvature of the rails which gather water. However, when located on a raised deck or stairway, they can be downright dangerous. How many homes have you visited a homeowner who warns you not to lean on the railing during your inspection of the home?
Think about it – the only thing between you and serious accident is a rotted handrail! Many state codes now require pressure-treated handrails.
These things are a serious safety problem – and this warning does include cedar or redwood which last longer, but also rot.
If you are at a new home site, you can treat new hand rails as they are assembled by drilling a hole into the end of each spindle and inserting a Cobra Rod. The borates and copper will dissolve into the surrounding wood and protect against rot. I would also soak all the components in one of our other liquid borate products. A pain, but better than an accident.
If you have more questions, please contact us 1-800-548-3554.
Please visit Perma-Chink’s How-To Tips or Preservatives for more detailed application information on the use of these products.
In many areas of the country when cool, fall days arrive, Asian lady beetles (ladybugs), Harmonia axyridis, and boxelder bugs, Boisea trivittatus, congregate on exterior walls. They typically choose the south and west facing walls since these walls are the warmest. Once on the wall they look for nooks, crannies and other dark openings where they can hibernate over the winter. Log checks, gaps between butt joints and corner openings provide ideal wintering sites for these insects. If any opening leads to the inside of the home, they can become a real nuisance, especially if they enter in large numbers. An effective method to handle them inside is with a vacuum cleaner. Spraying them with pesticides is unnecessary and unhealthy.
The best way to keep them out of your home is to block their entry points with a sealant, screening and weather stripping. Using high quality sealants like Energy Seal™ or Woodsman™ will help prevent these and other insects from entering your home for years to come. When sealing, pay special attention to window and door frames. That’s where openings typically appear as a home settles and logs season.
Although ladybugs and boxelder bugs do no damage or reproduce indoors, they can still be a nuisance. If a gathering of insects on the exterior walls of your home bothers you, spray them with a simple solution of soap or detergent and water. To help keep them off of the walls, you can use a pesticide containing deltamethrin, cypermethrin, permethrin or bifenthrin. These products only last about three to four weeks, so the treatment will have to be repeated every so often and should only be used during periods of peak activity. Be sure to follow label directions and read and understand all precautions that must be taken when using any pesticide.
Most pest control companies offer some type of exterior treatment for these insects as well. But be aware that any type of exterior treatment must be applied before the insects enter the home in the fall of the year.
Your decks and railings do not weather in a uniform fashion like your log walls. After a year or two with some deck stains, areas exposed to direct sunlight may hold little or no trace of the original finish, while shaded surfaces may show very little, if any degradation.
Maintaining Your Deck
There are three primary elements to your deck which can maximize longevity and structural integrity as well as aesthetics. These include periodic maintenance between applications of stain, preparation of applying new stain and the staining itself.
Regardless of the stain used on your deck, its life can be extended with periodic cleaning. Pooling water can easily be swept off with a push-broom, which can help prevent premature failure of your deck stain. However, cleaning it periodically will make the biggest contribution to maximizing its life and appearance. A diluted solution of Log Wash™ (1 cup per gallon) can easily be applied through a garden pump sprayer ($20 – $30 at any garden center or hardware store) then lightly pressure washed off. If you don’t have access to a pressure washer, a strong jet stream from a garden hose will also work. Remember, here you are trying to clean the deck, not remove the finish.
For decks that may have excessive levels of dirt, mildew, green algae, etc., the mechanical action of scrubbing or using a medium bristle push broom after applying Log Wash will help a lot. Make sure to thoroughly rinse off all detergents as you never want them to dry on the wood surface.
For decks that have darkened from sun exposure with little or no stain left, a deeper pressure washing can be done to remove the darkened surface in order to get down to clean, bright wood. Photos 1 and 2 above show these results. If necessary, Wood ReNew™ and a pressure washer may be used to clean away any gray UV damaged wood fibers, as well as deep rooted mold and dirt residue.
Your deck is ready to stain immediately after cleaning. Pick your color and apply 1 coat of Deck Defense. Once the initial coat of Deck Defense applied to bare wood, a future maintenance coat applied to a surface previously coated with Deck Defense is easy – clean and recoat, no mechanical or chemical stripping required.
Have you noticed your heating bill increasing year after year? It could be that your home has cracks that let heat escape, costing you money. Seal up cracks and seams before the weather turns cold and it’s too late to do anything about it.
Specifically designed for milled and scribed log homes, Energy Seal is a revolutionary product offering superior binders that effectively seal all interior and exterior gaps and cracks.
Energy Seal is a 100% acrylic polymer sealant formulated to provide a long-lasting and resilient barrier for any chinkless log home. Since logs constantly twist, turn, swell, and shrink during the life of a log home, annoying gaps can appear. These gaps promote the retention of moisture, which can lead to log decay and damage, as well as seepage of air and water.
Energy Seal will virtually eliminate these problematic gaps by adhering directly to the logs while eliminating any air space. When applied on your log home it stops outside air infiltration, increasing energy efficiency.
Energy Seal is not affected by ultraviolet rays and resists most chemicals, salt spray, mold & mildew, and has low thermal conductivity.
Log homes can tend to appear darker because wood absorbs excess light. Energy Seal’s lightly textured design and colors reflect light to brighten and even out log wall tones, dramatically eliminating shadow lines.
Unlike commonly used caulks, which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood and look like it belongs there. It easily tools to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it’s applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls, most people can’t tell the seams are sealed.
There is nothing on the market that can beat Energy Seal’s natural appearing colors, ease of application, coverage and hiding properties: Energy Seal is the only product created for the unique sealant needs of the milled log home.
Check out the color selection of Energy Seal to complement your finish. Enhance the beauty of your home and start saving money right away!
We are proud to announce our new supply of the widest range of dispensing tools in the industry from Albion Engineering Company. Albion is a high quality alternative to the tools typically found in hardware stores and do-it-yourself outlets. Professional tools, built to last.
1. The Albion Bulk Loading Caulking Gun is our most popular tool for applying Perma-Chink or Energy Seal. It is built to meet the demands of serious professionals, utilizing rugged, heavy-duty all steel drives and lightweight aluminum barrels to reliably dispense a wide range of materials.
Available sizes 20 oz. and 30 oz.
- Professional Quality
- Efficient 12:1 Drive Ratio
- Lightweight Aluminum Barrel
- Double Grip Plates for Long Life
- No Spanner Wrench Needed!
- Barrel Rotates for no-stop application
- Kit includes 3 nozzles, one spare piston and a steel ladder hook-pull
2. Albion Smooth Rod Manual Drive Guns are Portable, Efficient, and Adaptable.
Heavy duty cradle smooth rod rod caulking guns. Great for professional use where bead consistency, control and clean up save time and money. A simple push of the recoil releases all pressure on the plunger and instantly stops the flow of sealant. To remove the tube, press the lever and pull back on the rod to expose the entire tube and slip it out of the gun.
Smooth Rod Style Caulking Guns for applying Perma-Chink, Energy Seal, Check Mate 2 and Woodsman.
Available in sizes for 11 oz. tubes and 30 oz. tubes
- Professional Quality
- Smooth Rod for reliable dispensing
- Efficient 12:1 Mechanical Advantage Drive
- Convenient Thumb-Release for no run-on caulking
- Full size handle for comfortable dispensing
3. Cordless Guns with a State-of-the-Art Performance, Portability and Control.
How Fast is Fast! A Cordless Gun can dramatically decrease the amount of time on a chinking job.
Available in sizes for 11 oz. tubes and 30 oz. tubes AND 20 oz. bulk
- Powerful – 400 lbs. of Dispensing Force
- Fast – Dispense 11 oz. Cartridge in 16 seconds
- Lightweight Aluminum Barrel
- Long Lasting – 12 V Lithium-Ion Battery
- Control – Variable Speed Trigger with Maximum Speed Dial
- Auto Reverse for No-Drip Dispensing
- Comfortable rubber over molded handle. Swivel barrel
- Fast 30-minute recharge. Battery Fuel Gauge
- Ladder pull hook