“Which of your products should I use to seal my log home?” is a question often put to us by prospective customers. Why do so many people refer to “sealing” a log home rather than staining or finishing? Nobody talks about sealing siding or trim on a stick built home. They are either stained or painted, yet sealing is the term used by many log home owners. As it relates to log homes the term “sealing” dates back to the early 1900s. Prior to then, most log homes were constructed using heartwood from old growth timber and left bare.

Occasionally we get a call from someone whose home has a gray aged patina that appeals to them. They typically want to apply some type of clear water repellent to seal and protect their home, but they don’t want to remove the grayed wood. The gray color is an indication that the surface wood has been photo-oxidized by ultraviolet (UV) light and the wood fibers have lost their integrity.

Log siding presents much more of a sealing challenge than stacked logs for several reasons. As stacked logs season and shrink, they settle on top of each other. If there are sealed gaps between the logs, the width of the gaps between the logs may remain fairly uniform as the logs settle. On the other hand, log siding is nailed or screwed into dimensional lumber which holds the siding in place. As shrinkage occurs, the gaps between the courses can become wider and wider (see pictures below). In addition, if the siding is not properly attached to the wall, it can twist and warp, creating even larger gaps between the courses.


NBS-30 is an oil-based insecticide additive for paints and stains. Pure and simple, oils and water do not work together and we DO NOT approve the use of NBS-30 in any of our finishes.


Just as clear coats are vital to the performance of today’s automotive finishes, our Advance™ Topcoats are an integral part of all of our exterior finish systems. Not only do they extend the life of the color coats, but they do much more.

Hand sanding is a commonly used technique for preparing exterior surfaces for a coat of finish. It may be used after media blasting, pressure washing, or just to touch up areas that are in need of maintenance or repair.

Mold and mildew (actually another name for mold) are colonies of living organisms that can grow on the surface of many materials, including wood. Their color may range from white to black, with just about every color in between. If the discoloration is green, it’s probably algae, a plant, since molds and mildews do not contain green chlorophyll.

Although we have never identified exactly what it is, there is a magical ingredient in Perma-Chink that acts as a magnet to human fingers. Put an adult or juvenile male anywhere close to a wall with a fresh application of Perma-Chink, and the first thing that happens is one hand comes out of their pocket and one, two, or even three fingers are magnetically attracted to the chink joint.

All of our stains and sealants are water-based, and while they are still wet, most clean up quite easily with just soap and water. That’s usually the best method to use for cleaning our wet, uncured products off of windows, gutters, downspouts, and other smooth surfaces, but there are occasions when other clean-up techniques should be used to remove some of our textured sealants from wood surfaces.

Do you need to remove any caulk that’s already in place before applying Energy Seal™, Woodsman™, or Check Mate 2®? Applying new sealant over old caulking is never a good idea, even if it looks like the old caulk is still sticking to the wood. The old caulk should be removed for several reasons.

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Project Spotlight

  • Do you have an old stain that doesn't really show the warmth and beauty your home deserves? Ready to restore it to its natural look? It's easy to start by stripping old finishes using StripIt or S-100. Check Out This Video...

    Project Spotlight