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Energy Seal is a textured acrylic polymer sealant that provides a long-lasting and resilient seal for any style of log home. Since logs constantly twist, turn, swell, expand and shrink, gaps may appear between logs or between the logs and window and door frames or other areas of the home.  These gaps retain moisture and allow the seepage of air and water into the home. Energy Seal eliminates these gaps by forming an air and water tight barrier over them. 

So why do people use textured sealant Energy Seal? 

First and foremost, to keep water, air and bugs out of places where they don’t belong; second, for its attractive appearance; and third, for the reputation of lasting longer and performing better than competitive products. It should not come as a surprise that log homes are a bit difficult to seal up. When you stack logs on top of one another to make a wall, the logs do not naturally fit tightly to one another so there are usually gaps that must be sealed to prevent air and water from getting inside. That’s what Energy Seal is designed to do.

Most people call log sealants “caulk” but we try to refer to them as “sealants” to help differentiate high quality products from cheap caulks that can be bought at any hardware store. Plus, several of our sealants do not fit the conception most people have of a typical caulk.

There are two reasons that Energy Seal is textured. First, it allows the surface of cured Energy Seal to remain looking “flat.” It does not have that shiny look common to most types of caulk. This allows Energy Seal to blend in with the surrounding stained wood. Second, the texture allows Energy Seal to better accept a stain so that it can virtually disappear on a wall. 

Here is a TIP; if you plan to stain over Energy Seal, select an Energy Seal color that’s just a bit lighter than the stain you plan to use. It’s much easier to cover light-colored Energy Seal with a darker color stain than it is to cover dark-colored Energy Seal with a light-colored stain.

Applying Energy Seal 

Before Energy Seal is applied, the surface must be clean, dry, and free of oil, wax, or anything else that will interfere with the adhesion of the Energy Seal.

Wherever possible, Energy Seal should be used along with Backer Rod or Grip Strip. If backing material is not used, there may not be enough room for the Energy Seal to expand and a crack may appear across the joint. Backer Rod should be used even if the joint is narrow. The width of the band of Energy Seal may end up a bit wider than you expected but the integrity of the seal will be maintained.

Applying Energy Seal over old caulk is never a good idea even if it looks like the caulk is still adhering to the wood.

Although it can be time consuming and somewhat difficult, old caulk should be removed for several reasons. If a caulk no longer adheres to the wood, it may be due to moisture getting under the caulk creating rot. The old caulk must be removed to properly treat and seal the wood, so the new sealant does not fail.

Once in place, Energy Seal may be tooled smooth with a trowel or putty knife. Spraying a light mist of water on the surface will make tooling a lot easier and will result in a smoother surface.

If masking tape is used to protect the surrounding wood be sure to remove the tape while the Energy Seal is still wet.

To protect recently applied Energy Seal from the weather, a loose covering of plastic film will prevent it from being washed out of the joint until it cures enough to withstand a heavy rain. Typically, a week or so is sufficient. 

For more information about Energy Seal, give us a call 1-800-548-3554 or check out our Log Home Sealant Application Guide https://www.permachink.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/sealants_guide-1.pdf

HOW TO SEAL AROUND WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES

We have an excellent tutorial on sealing around windows and doors using Energy Seal and Log Gap Caps. Read it here: https://www.permachink.com/resources/log-gap-cap-and-energy-seal-to-seal-windows-and-doors

During the winter months it’s important to be aware of the freeze-thaw stability of Perma-Chink’s products. The reason may involve shipping conditions or whether it is okay to store a product or products in an unheated shed. In any case you need to be aware of the consequences of allowing any of our products to freeze.

Without a doubt it is always best to prevent any of our finishes and sealants from freezing. They all contain water and the formation of ice crystals within the products can separate the water from the other components. In some products once this occurs it becomes impossible to regain the properties of the original formulation even after thawing and vigorous mixing. These types of products are not freeze-thaw stable.

With a few exceptions most of our products are freeze-thaw stable, however, if a product becomes frozen it needs to be thawed slowly, preferably at room temperature. Speeding up the thawing process by heating the container can seriously damage the product making it unusable. If the product is in pails or containers, once it has completely thawed it will require a thorough mixing.

If a product is subjected to multiple freeze-thaw cycles each cycle will contribute to the degradation process until it is no longer suitable for use. If a product becomes frozen it is better to allow it to stay frozen than it is to bring it inside to thaw and then store it where it may freeze again. It’s the succession of freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw sequences that really destroys the integrity of a product. Before applying any product that’s been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.

To reiterate:

• It’s best to protect all of our products from freezing.
• If it does get frozen, thaw it slowly at room temperature then thoroughly mix it.
• It’s better to keep it frozen than to subject it to multiple freeze-thaw cycles.
• Before applying any product that’s been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.

Perma-Chink Systems’ products that are NOT freeze-thaw stable:

• Chink Paint™ Textured & Smooth
• Log End Seal™
• Oxcon™
• StripIt

Perma-Chink Systems’ products that have limited freeze-thaw stability (5 cycles):

• LIFELINE™Ultra 7

For information about cold weather storage of Shell-Guard® and Shell-Guard® RTU see “Storing Borate Solutions.”

During the winter months it’s important to be aware of the freeze-thaw stability of Perma-Chink’s products. The reason may involve shipping conditions, or whether it is okay to store a product or products in an unheated shed. In any case, you need to be aware of the consequences of allowing any of our products to freeze.

Without a doubt it is always best to prevent any of our finishes and sealants from freezing. They all contain water and the formation of ice crystals within the products can separate the water from the other components. In some products once this occurs it becomes impossible to regain the properties of the original formulation, even after thawing and vigorous mixing. These types of products are not freeze-thaw stable.

With a few exceptions, most of our products are freeze-thaw stable. However, if a product becomes frozen it needs to be thawed slowly, preferably at room temperature. Speeding up the thawing process by heating the container can seriously damage the product making it unusable. If the product is in pails or containers, once it has completely thawed it will require a thorough mixing.

When a waterborne product is subjected to multiple freeze-thaw cycles, each cycle contributes to the degradation process until the product is not suitable for use, i.e. gelation or coagulation of the product. If a product does become frozen it is better to allow it to stay frozen than it is to bring it inside to thaw and then store it where it may freeze again. It’s the succession of freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw sequences that really destroys the integrity of a product.

Before applying any product that’s been frozen, be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.

To reiterate:

• It’s best to protect all of our products from freezing.
• If it does get frozen, thaw it slowly at room temperature then thoroughly mix it.
• It’s better to keep it frozen than to subject it to multiple freeze-thaw cycles.
• Before applying any product that’s been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.

Perma-Chink Systems’ products that are NOT freeze-thaw stable:

• Chink Paint™ Textured
• Chink Paint™ Smooth
• Log End Seal™
• Oxcon™
• StripIt

Perma-Chink Systems’ products that have limited freeze-thaw stability (5 cycles or less):

• Lifeline™ Ultra 7

For information about cold weather storage of Shell-Guard® and Shell-Guard® RTU see Storing Borate Solutions.

Most of the Directions for Use for our finishes contain the statement “Do not use Lifeline™ on surfaces that have been brushed or rubbed with steel wool or a wire brush. If you do, rust spots may appear under the finish.” Fortunately we rarely see the consequences of applying one of our finishes over a wall that has been rubbed or brushed with steel wool or a wire brush, but occasionally it does happen.

The customer who took this picture thought that the dark spots in the corners were due to mold; however, they appeared within just days after the finish was applied. We were able to obtain a small section of the discolored wood and just looking at it gives the impression that the discolorations could well be mold, or some flecks of dirt that may have been present at the time of staining. Even under the microscope at 10X magnification, there’s no indication of what caused the black spots.

But at 60X magnification it quickly becomes apparent that every black spot is associated with some type of fiber imbedded in the film. These fibers are bits of steel wool. Since the black spots are concentrated in the corners, it’s evident that someone had tried to wipe the wall clean but missed the corners entirely.

Designing a Fortress of Protection for Your Log Home

When I was growing up, I was fascinated with forts. I would often get together with friends from the neighborhood, and we would combine our resources and construct some rather elaborate fortresses. To test our handywork we would end our session with a great battle to decide whose fort was superior. Fast forward nearly forty years and I am still helping design forts! At Perma-Chink Systems the forts we are building are designed to protect your home against the forces of nature such as sunlight, wind, rain, dust, insects and microorganisms. Let us take a closer look at what our fort looks like.

Protection From The Start

We have advocated for many years that the protection of your log home starts with a smart design. For example, many modern log home builders use large overhangs and wide porches to help shield the home’s walls from dangerous radiation from the sun. Let your roof help protect your walls. Planting trees that can help shade your home not only reduces energy consumption, but also helps to prolong your finish system.

Protect From Insects and Ultraviolet Damage

Protecting your home from wood destroying insects is something we have also incorporated into our “fort” design. Bare wood logs or siding can be treated with anyone of our safe, borate-based wood preservatives such as Shell Guard™, Shell Guard RTU™ and Armor Guard™. These products are designed to provide a protective shell of defense for log homes. If a wood-ingesting insect such as a termite or Powder-Post beetle passes through this protective barrier, they are in for quite a nasty surprise. The borates work to interrupt the insects natural digestive cycle, making it difficult – if not impossible – for the organism to process food. These products, while destructive to wood-ingesting insects, pose little danger to humans.

Perma-Chink offers a full line of stains with numerous color choices and benefits. For example, our stains such as Lifeline Ultra 7™, Ultra 2™ and Exterior™ have ingredients designed to protect the wood surface from algae and fungi (mold). In addition, we also have ingredients that work to shield the lignin in your wood from photooxidation. Lignin provides structure and support for the cell walls in wood. If it is destroyed by harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation, then your coating could delaminate from the wall more easily. Furthermore, our stains also contain UV absorbers designed to filter out harmful radiation. Our colorants also add another level of protection for your finish system. In general, darker tone stains provide a higher level of protection than lighter, honey-tone colors. Choosing a slightly darker tone will act as a shield to help protect your wood more completely and provide more longevity and less color shift.

Protect With Industry-Leading Sealants

Our business was founded forty years ago with a great solution to existing chinking. Back at that time, many folks used concrete between the logs to fill in the gaps. When the logs changed dimensionally this created cracks and open places for water to get in and damage wood structures. Perma-Chink™ seals between the logs and moves with your log home keeping a tight seal that keeps water and insects out. For smaller joints of less than one inch, we also sell Energy Seal™ and Woodsman™ which are great products for sealing around windows and doors.

Protect With The Finishing Touch

The next defensive layer in our “fort” is the topcoat. Our Lifeline Advance Satin™ or Gloss™ has several purposes. First, it provides a hard surface making it more difficult for dirt and debris to collect on the wood and sealant surfaces. Secondly, it contains both UV absorbers and UV stabilizers. Often when you UV light strikes a system it produces harmful free radicals that can be destructive to a coating system. The UV stabilizers are designed to terminate free radicals so they cannot continue their destruction. The UV absorbers act as a shield keeping the dangerous UV light from penetrating deeper into the system. Finally, it works to keep your coating system sealed. If water remains on surface for long periods of time, it can allow microorganisms to grow and multiply. Water will sheet and evaporate relatively quickly with the topcoat present.

Finally, regular cleaning of your home will help keep your home looking beautiful well into the future. Buildup of dirt and debris can provide a foothold for fungi and algae to grow, decreasing the longevity of your finish system. To aid in this annual cleaning, Perma-Chink provides a safe cleaner called Log Wash™ which does a fantastic job removing these unwanted contaminates from your log home.

Protect By Moving Forward

As you can see, we have many layers of defense built into our fortress. The forces of nature are powerful and unforgiving at times. Over the years we at Perma-Chink have gained tremendous respect for what it can do to damage your home. We have learned a great deal over these last forty years and have adjusted tactics where needed to counter our foe. Let us put our experience building forts to work for you. Please visit our website at www.permachink.com to learn more about our products and how they can help you protect your home.

Occasionally we get a call from someone whose home has a gray aged patina that appeals to them. They typically want to apply some type of clear water repellent to seal and protect their home, but they don’t want to remove the grayed wood. The gray color is an indication that the surface wood has been photo-oxidized by ultraviolet (UV) light and the wood fibers have lost their integrity.

The application of any film-forming finish over grayed wood presents a problem since the finish will not adhere to the degraded wood fibers. It would be like trying to paint over a rusted metal surface. Within a few months the paint begins to peel off; consequently, the same thing can happen with a film-forming log home finish applied over grayed wood. With this in mind, we never recommend applying any of our stains or topcoats over gray, photo-oxidized wood.

Gray Color Choices in Lifeline Stains

Although there are solvent-based products that can be applied to grayed wood surfaces they only last about six months or so. If you truly want to protect your home, you will have to remove the grayed wood, and if you like the gray look, use one of our gray colored stains. If you are not willing to clean the surface down to bare wood, the best recommendation we can give you is to leave the surface alone but make sure that all chink joints, checks and other places that may allow water entry are well sealed.

Log Homes in Gray Colors

Pressure washing (also referred to power washing) is the function of using highly pressurized water to remove mildew, mold, dirt, pollen, UV graying, etc. You’ll hear different recommendations whether or not pressure washing your logs is the best cleaning method.

Generally speaking, pressure washing is the quickest and least expensive choice.

One fallacy is that you’re saturating and “damaging” your logs with water as a result of pressure washing. This simply isn’t true. On hard, sound, rot-free logs, you’re only introducing water into the top fibers of the wood.

The time it takes to pressure wash and the results generated are often directly associated with the type of finish being removed as well as how many coats have been applied. While some older, obsolete linseed based oil stains are more difficult to remove than newer products, practically everything can be removed with proper pressure washing techniques and good finish removers. Some of these older type products will often need S-100 or StripIt stripper applied first in order to soften the bond to the wood.

Condition of Wood Surface

Traditionally, newer, recently peeled logs have a greater surface hardness and can withstand highly aggressive pressure washing (if needed) easier than a log wall which has been fully exposed to direct sun for 20 years. You might notice your upper and lower fascia boards have aged and darkened at an accelerated rate compared to your logs. Because these areas are often made from softer (i.e. pine) wood, they are more likely to absorb water leading to more prominent mildew growth. These areas can easily resemble new wood once cleaned.

Pressure washing of new constructions can also easily remove the UV graying of the logs that can start occurring just weeks after the logs are stacked, particularly if exposed to direct sunlight.

In addition to log and wood sided structures, other areas where pressure washing can be utilized include driveways, stone walkways, pool decking, stone walls, fencing, gutters, downspouts, roofing and other areas. Concrete slowly builds up a browning/green appearance over time which usually consists of grease, dirt, mildew and algae which can easily be cleaned.

Pressure washing can be done in practically any temperature and weather conditions, although chemical strippers, which are often applied prior to cleaning, work much better in warmer weather.

Whether you hire a professional or undertake the project yourself, pressure washing with wood cleaners from Perma-Chink Systems can bring back the beauty of your logs, preparing them for a fresh coat of stain and protective clear topcoat finish.

By Jeff Kyger
Northwest Log Home Care
www.northwestloghomecare.com

Pressure washing (also referred to power washing) is the function of using highly pressurized water to remove mildew, mold, dirt, pollen, UV graying, etc. You’ll hear different recommendations whether or not pressure washing your logs is the best cleaning method.

Generally speaking, pressure washing is the quickest and least expensive choice.

One fallacy is that you’re saturating and “damaging” your logs with water as a result of pressure washing. This simply isn’t true. On hard, sound, rot-free logs, you’re only introducing water into the top fibers of the wood.

The time it takes to pressure wash and the results generated are often directly associated with the type of finish being removed as well as how many coats have been applied. While some older, obsolete linseed based oil stains are more difficult to remove than newer products, practically everything can be removed with proper pressure washing techniques and good finish removers. Some of these older type products will often need S-100 or StripIt stripper applied first in order to soften the bond to the wood.

Condition of Wood Surface

Traditionally, newer, recently peeled logs have a greater surface hardness and can withstand highly aggressive pressure washing (if needed) easier than a log wall which has been fully exposed to direct sun for 20 years. You might notice your upper and lower fascia boards have aged and darkened at an accelerated rate compared to your logs. Because these areas are often made from softer (i.e. pine) wood, they are more likely to absorb water leading to more prominent mildew growth. These areas can easily resemble new wood once cleaned.

Pressure washing of new constructions can also easily remove the UV graying of the logs that can start occurring just weeks after the logs are stacked, particularly if exposed to direct sunlight.

In addition to log and wood sided structures, other areas where pressure washing can be utilized include driveways, stone walkways, pool decking, stone walls, fencing, gutters, downspouts, roofing and other areas. Concrete slowly builds up a browning/green appearance over time which usually consists of grease, dirt, mildew and algae which can easily be cleaned.

Pressure washing can be done in practically any temperature and weather conditions, although chemical strippers, which are often applied prior to cleaning, work much better in warmer weather.

Whether you hire a professional or undertake the project yourself, pressure washing with wood cleaners from Perma-Chink Systems can bring back the beauty of your logs, preparing them for a fresh coat of stain and protective clear topcoat finish.

Every spring we get lots of calls about carpenter bees drilling into logs, fascia boards, eaves, decks and other unpainted wood surfaces. Carpenter bees are big black solitary bees that look similar to bumblebees but have bare, shiny backs whereas a bumblebee’s back is hairy. Unlike honey bees that reproduce in hives, carpenter bees drill into wood in order to lay their eggs. Their holes are perfectly round and about 1/4 inch in diameter.

Although carpenter bees prefer hardwoods such as cedar, redwood, or cypress, they happily attack pine and most other species of wood. Even pressure treated wood is not immune from carpenter bee attack. As the bee drills into the wood, coarse sawdust may be seen coming out of the hole and piling up beneath the hole. Since it only takes a couple of hours for a carpenter bee to drill a hole a few inches deep, lots of holes can appear over a fairly short period of time.

Most carpenter bee activity occurs in early spring when male and female bees emerge after spending the winter in old nest tunnels. Once they have paired and mated the female bee drills into a suitable site while the male stays nearby to ward off intruders. Male carpenter bees often frighten people with their aggressive behavior but since they have no stinger they are essentially harmless. Females have a stinger but only use it if molested.

Once the initial hole is drilled through the surface, the bee will make a turn and excavate a tunnel along the grain of the wood. This tunnel, which may run for several inches, becomes the cavity where the female deposits her eggs. Several eggs are laid in individual chambers separated by plugs of pollen on which the larvae feed until they emerge as adults during the summer months. In addition to making new holes, carpenter bees also enlarge old tunnels. If left unattended for several years, serious damage to a wood member may result.

In late fall activity may again be seen as both male and female carpenter bees clean out old nest cavities where they stay over winter. Since carpenter bees tend to migrate back to the same area from which they emerged, it is important to implement some control measures in order to prevent logs and wood members from becoming riddled by these bees.

Prevention

Although carpenter bees prefer bare wood or distressed wood, they will attack wood that is stained. Painted wood surfaces, on the other hand, are rarely attacked since the bees must see or feel the grain of the wood in order to recognize it as wood. One of the most effective measures for preventing extensive carpenter bee damage is to fill old or empty holes with Energy Seal. Carpenter bees are attracted to existing holes. Be sure to treat the hole before you fill it since live adult bees will drill right through the caulk on their way out.

One way to keep carpenter bees from drilling into wood is by spraying pesticides that contain either cypermethrin, deltamethrin, or bifenthrin (Ortho Home Defense Max) onto wood surfaces. When it comes to carpenter bees, these products act more as repellants than contact poisons. However, the effectiveness of these applications is only about three to four weeks, so the treatment will have to be repeated every so often. Pesticides should only be used during the periods of peak activity in the spring and perhaps again in late fall. Be sure to follow label directions and read and understand any precautions that must be taken when using these products.

A few years ago we requested information about the effect of our gloss topcoat on reducing carpenter bee activity via survey. Out of over 20 responses by letter, phone and e-mail, only two reported any penetration of the gloss topcoat by carpenter bees. One home went from 20 to 30 holes the previous year down to 2 this past year and the other went from over 20 holes to 4 holes. This confirms our suspicion that the Lifeline Advance Gloss exterior topcoat appears to provide a finish to the wood that carpenter bees do not find very attractive. That is not saying that the gloss finish repels carpenter bees. It does not. Although bees would occasionally land on the gloss topcoat, they just did not drill through it. So why is that? Well, let’s be clear that the Lifeline Advance Gloss topcoat is not a pesticide nor does it have any pesticide properties. It appears to form a coating on the surface of the wood that carpenter bees are reluctant to drill through. Why? It could be the glossy look or that the hard, slick finish does not appeal to them, so the bees will search for another target. Many other online “How-To” documents related to carpenter bees describe the actions of carpenter bees on bare or distressed wood. That stands to reason that well-maintained log homes with stain and a solid topcoat should dissuade most carpenter bees from nesting inside logs. 

Another possible solution, with hit-and-miss results, is a bee trap specifically for carpenter bees. Much like a minature bird house, the bee trap invites the carpenter bees inside, and they get trapped in a glass jar. In the past we offered these types of traps, and the results weren’t 100% positive. You can find bee traps online, both DIY plans and for purchase. 

Treating Carpenter Bee Holes

Any carpenter bee holes you can reach should be treated and plugged since existing holes attract more carpenter bees. The way to treat an existing hole and tunnel depends on the time of year, and if bees are present at the time of treatment. If the female is drilling away when you find a hole (you can see sawdust coming out or hear her working inside) spray a contact pesticide like wasp and hornet spray into the hole. She will quickly back out and die. Immediately fill the hole with wood putty or Energy Seal. You need to treat the hole even if it appears empty since the bee may be resting and, if left alive, will drill back through the plug you’ve just inserted.

If you find carpenter bee holes in late spring or early summer it’s difficult to tell if there are bee larvae developing in the tunnels. The best thing to do is to run a length of flexible wire into the tunnels in order to break through the pollen plugs separating the chambers. Then spray a pesticide into the hole and seal it up. The same thing should be done on holes found in the fall or winter to kill any bees that may be over-wintering in the holes. Just remember to plug the holes since they will attract more carpenter bees come spring.

Several people told us that although they sprayed a pesticide into the holes, carpenter bees later emerged, in some cases even after the holes were plugged. How can this happen?

If we take a look at a cross section diagram of a carpenter bee gallery we can see how. After drilling out a four to five inch long gallery, the female carpenter bee lays an egg in back of the gallery then places a plug of pollen she has gathered to form a chamber (A). She continues doing this until there are four to six egg chambers in place. After a few days the egg hatches and a small white grub emerges (B). The grub feeds on the pollen plug for a few weeks (C) until it is ready to pupate (D) and change into an adult bee (E).

If you look at the way the gallery is constructed, you can see why spraying a pesticide in the hole may not kill all of the developing bee larvae. The pollen plugs prevent the pesticide from getting to the rear chambers. So, before you spray any pesticide into a carpenter bee hole be sure to run a stiff wire all the way to the back of the gallery to break through any pollen plugs. That way all of the larval chambers will be exposed to the pesticide.

Perma-Chink Systems History Over 40 Years

The Beginning

In 1980 my neighbor told me about building a log home in Eastern Washington. He said that he loved the home and the lifestyle but was disappointed that with the wind constantly blowing and harsh cold winters, there was no real effective way to seal the gaps between the logs. The house leaked air and heat, and wind-driven rain literally came right through the walls.

He tried various caulking materials with little success. Caulking around a bathtub or sink was significantly different from ‘caulking’ literally miles of seams between logs in a log house. After a number of conversations and experiments, it became apparent that there was no readily available product that could seal the gaps, look like authentic chinking, and last more than a few months.

After literally months of trial and error, it became apparent that if we were going to design a material that would be acceptable, we would have to design it ourselves.

Defining a New Industry Standard

The product we were designing was to be a replacement for what was known in the Log Home Industry as chinking – the sealant that historically provided the seal between the logs. A “chink” is a gap – as in Biblical Times, “A chink in his armor’. Therefore, chinking is a material to fill a gap. Throughout the centuries of constructing dwellings out of logs, a number of methods were used to seal in between them. Early builders used pretty much anything they could get their hands on – mud, straw and mud, cow manure, mixtures of cement and mortar, and a method I discovered in Russia that was a particular type of moss that, when pounded into the gap, excreted a compound that delayed wood rot.

During our investigation we determined that in order to be a true solution the sealant must meet most important requirements.

1. It had to be textured to look like authentic mortar chinking.
2. It had to ‘look like it belonged there’.
3. It had to be able to expand and contract in order to follow perpetual log movement.

As logs dry out in the summer, they shrink in diameter – in the winter and rainy months they absorb moisture and swell, increasing in diameter.

1. The sealant had to adhere tightly to the logs and form a continuous watertight seal that would not separate from the wood.
2. It had to be easy to apply – in some cases, gaps up to 4 and 5 inches, and not slump or wash out.
3. And most importantly, it had to LAST for decades.

Common caulking materials were quickly ruled out. Everyone has seen thin caulking beads applied to exterior trim that inevitably separate, peel off, flake, crack, and ultimately fail.

No ‘caulk’ could adhere to the wood well enough, could not be applied to the thickness and height required without slumping and running out of the joint, and all caulks had that smooth, artificial look that frankly, of course, looked like caulk! It’s okay for around the tub or sink, but not for my log home, thank you.

Creating the Industry Standard

So, after months of experimentation and learning a tremendous amount of the chemistry of what are called polymers (the chemical building blocks of literally everything that we commonly call paint, plastic, vinyl, glue, etc.), we designed a unique sealant that met all of the most important requirements.

During the design phase we located an innovative small company south of Seattle that manufactured a synthetic stucco. They had experience and machinery that helped us scale up lab designs to large-scale production. We began selling early product in 1981, and the first house we did was in Sun Valley, Idaho – in the middle of winter.

Soon after we had a saleable product that met every design requirement, I did a little market research and discovered that the larger part of the national market for log homes was in the eastern part of the United States, and in particular, the southeast. I also discovered that of the numerous styles of log homes, the three largest manufactures of ‘Dovetail’ log homes were within 100 miles of Knoxville, Tennessee. I liked the Dovetail design because the nature of the structure, and the way the logs are stacked resulted in a chinking gap of up to 4 inches! In some cases, almost 25% of the wall area was chinking!

So, we set up a manufacturing plant in Knoxville, Tennessee. Timing was right because as soon as log home owners and log home manufacturers discovered that we could finally provide a dramatic solution to one of the most significant and perplexing aspects of a log home – the business grew rapidly.

Winning the Manufacturers

Early adopters such as Hearthstone, Honest Abe, Stone Mill, and Appalachian Log Homes helped pave the way for essentially all others to follow. As a matter of fact, one of the earliest applications for any manufacturer was Appalachian. Turns out they had a contract with the US Forest Service to build an outhouse. The location was remote, and the house needed to be completely assembled and transported via helicopter. Obviously, mortar chinking could not withstand that type of stress, so they tried Perma-Chink. That outhouse is still standing today and is weather tight – some applications simply CANNOT fail!

The development of synthetic chinking solved one of the most serious and vexing aspects of the Log Home Industry. The chinking formulation is unique and not simply ‘caulk with sand in it’ as others have offered.

Rick Denton, Honest Abe Log Homes President Emeritus said, “Perhaps the invention of Perma-Chink kept Honest Abe in business, as well as every other log home company using a chinked product line.” Read his story here https://www.honestabe.com/blog/perma-chink/.

What started out as an idea has revolutionized the entire industry. Worldwide, every log structure uses synthetic chinking, and the largest supplier of the most authentic and highest-performance log home chinking is Perma-Chink.

Expanding the Preservation of Log Homes

The next vexing challenge was with log home stains and finishes. Every log home owner wants a log home that looks like an outdoor piece of furniture. One that blends in with the rustic back to nature look and feel of the surroundings. No one would consider painting a log house. That would be like painting a beautiful hand rubbed antique! Log home owners tend to start down the following path after stains start failing: That beautiful stain we applied only lasted a year or maybe two and after two recoats, we may as well paint it. Why can’t someone develop a stain that looks like a furniture grade finish and LASTS?

We began to have literally thousands of people say, ‘You solved my sealant dilemma – now do you have a solution to the stain and finish dilemma?’ So challenge number two was tackled.

Creating the Best Log Home Stains

We used the knowledge and expertise we developed in formulating Perma-Chink Chinking (remember the polymers?) to design the longest lasting semi- transparent stain in the Industry. The formulation is also unique, provides that ‘furniture grade’ appearance, and outlasts any exterior stain on the market. Also, with a Clear Coat (which Perma-Chink Systems also introduced), when the finish is finally starting to “wear” out, all that is needed is a cleaning and application of an additional clear coat. That eliminates the tint buildup and subsequent hiding of the wood and completely eliminates the phrase ‘After two re-coats, I may just as well paint it.’

I personally require hands-on experience with every product Perma-Chink Systems offers. We are dedicated to providing the best products available for the care and maintenance of Log and Timber Frame Homes. As history has shown, and something we take pride in, is ‘Whenever a log home owner becomes aware of a concern, whether it be sealing, staining, or preservation or maintenance, we already have a solution.’

Take a Look At Total Cost

An interesting story – I recently had a heating problem with my log house in Colorado. The bill to repair the system included a small starting capacitor in one of the air handlers. The bill for the part was $6.25 and the bill for the labor was $220! So why would I try save sixty cents on the capacitor when the cost by far was in the labor to replace it? Same is true with a log home stain. By far the largest cost is in application and labor, so it pays to use the best product available. Cheaper stain is a cheap solution that sets you up for a repeat in a year or two, and in the meantime your exterior looks like crap! Pay the extra sixty cents and buy yourself some peace of mind.

By choosing our high-performance finish like Lifeline™ Ultra-7, you are ensuring that the finish will look as beautiful years after application as it did the second day it was applied thanks to a balanced formula of transparent iron oxides, mildew inhibitors and an advanced polymer resin.

Our Success is From Working With Great Customers, Industry-leading Partners, and Fantastic Employees

I am humbled that Perma-Chink Systems has become a ‘household’ name in the log home industry and is recognized for highest of quality. Our products grace the log houses of such noted Americans as former President Jimmy Carter, clothing designer Ralph Lauren, movie stars Tom Cruise, Olympic champion figure skater Kristi Yamaguchi, Nascar champion Dale Earnhardt (read the story here) and thousands of great American home owners.

I am proud of my company, of my employees and our customers. Perma-Chink Systems has a slogan for our 40^th anniversary – “Simply Unmatched”.

By being engaged in best quality products and the best customer service, we will attain our goals and make great strides towards meeting our customers’ expectations for years to come. We raise a toast to the next 40 years of great products, service, and customers of Perma-Chink Systems.

Rich Dunstan, President Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.

How To Create Dust-Free Log Homes

We decorate our log and timber homes for not only holidays, but seasons, too. And after Thanksgiving and Christmas, putting away all those decorations revealed one of the most annoying things about homes: dust.

Dust gets everywhere. It’s never-ending. We have terms for giant amounts of dust called dust bunnies. It makes us sneeze – constantly. It’s ridiculous! No matter what it used to clean the dust, it returns!

Minimizing Dust Tips

The good news is there are ways to lessen the amount of dust. BobVila.com compiled 20 easy ways to keep the dust level in your house to a minimum. And in addition to the usual advice of keeping furnace/HVAC filters clean, vacuuming with HEPA filters, air purifiers, and wiping down surfaces, there are some other cleaning methods and ideas to keep the dust at bay. One of my favorites is limiting the number of textiles in your home. Like throw pillows. If your spouse or partner love a lot of pillows, that’s not the best thing to limit dust (approach this topic with caution! Ha!).

While the list of dust-limiting methods are quite useful, most only address the issue after the dust is inside the home. What about preventing dust from entering the home to begin with? For instance, having open windows may help bring in fresh air, it also allows dust in the form of pollen, spores, pollutants, etc., to enter the home.

Preventing Dust

One key to limiting dust in a log home is making sure your home is completely sealed. We know the amount of sealing a log home needs, based on the number of logs, sizes of log gaps, amount of windows and door frames and so on. However, there exists the chance that some nooks and crannies might get missed or damaged throughout time.

The quickest method to find where dust can enter the home is performing an energy audit. Infrared cameras can locate and identify areas where outside air can penetrate. Learn more about energy audits here.

The most likely areas of air gaps are the nooks and crannies of joints and building material transitions. For instance, doors and windows. Sometimes the seal isn’t as solid as one would hope. That’s where our Log Gap Cap pre-cut foam comes into play. Paired with Energy Seal or Perma-Chink sealant that matches your current sealant, this combo effectively closes up your home around doors and windows. Read more about Log Gap Caps here.

And finally, make sure vents and the foundation seams are sealed and properly finished. Not only will this help keep your home sealed from outside dust, but also keeps bugs and pests from infiltrating your home.

Dust will always be around, but there are ways to mitigate how much, which should give you more time to enjoy your home.

Lifeline Ultra-7 turns ten in 2021!

Introduced ten years ago, Lifeline Ultra-7 quickly became the premier finish for log and timber homes. Upon introduction, Ultra-7 improved coverage rates and added even more color options for the Lifeline family. Today, the best-selling Ultra-7 remains the go-to finish for exceptional longevity and color retention for log and timber homes. Paired with Lifeline Advance topcoat, Ultra-7 keeps your log home looking beautiful for years and years.

Wayne Bell of Log Home Care finished this project ten years ago in Avon, Ohio.

Before:

After, Front Porch:

After, Front Porch Up Close:

After, Wide Shot of Wrap-Around: